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Partially Solved Way too many problems for me to list on subject. (being new is one of it)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by nierro, Mar 18, 2015.

  1. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Filament type: PLA (one that came with the ROBO 3d) 1.75 (actual size 1.7)
    Extruding Temp:200
    Bed Temp: 65~70
    Bed makeup: all different types. Being new, I tried using many different ways. I'll describe it next to each pic.
    Here's how the robo is set up now. [​IMG]
    Hi all,
    I am new so I am not 100% sure what I am doing.
    I started a print job and it gave me some errors. I am currently using cura with Mike Kelly's instruction on set up. http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/how-to-cura-setup.4169/
    This set up.
    here's the error it gave me. (sorry I didn't think to scroll to the right the take the picture of the rest of the error message)
    it was printing the brim as you can see from the top picture the g code gave me this error then stopped the print.
    [​IMG]

    prior to that, I wanted to print some calibration cube that I got from her http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11155
    here's the result. (I was using blue masking tape for this print)
    It was printing and then it got pushed off by the extruder, so i had to stop the printing.

    This picture was taken from the top, where the print got canceled. The caliper is measuring the top part of the cube.
    [​IMG]
    here's the measurement of the same sizes, but the bottom end.
    [​IMG]
    the whole cube wasn't really a cube at all. it was curvy/bumpy. pretty much all sizes were off.

    Here's a little close up of the top. at the bottom left corner, you can see that it's bent. looks kinda burnt too. prob why it got knocked off. But I would like to know why it printed like that...
    [​IMG]
    this picure shows the other side of the cube the the "burn" place. can't see it but inside has lot of strings? like webs and some are tick as the extrude size.
    [​IMG]
    this is the side of the cube. you can't even make out what it's trying to say. it's 1" CAL CUBE, but you can't even make it out on the print.
    [​IMG] \
    other side, can't make out the words one bit...
    [​IMG]
    as you can see from this picture. The cube is curved. that yeah...
    [​IMG]

    here are some of my other failed prints. (almost all of them so far has been, but these are the ones that's not dumped).
    This is the rocket launcher from the game Destiny. It looks "okay" but there are lot of random lines bulging out. Like a size of 200 microns (print size) and some "burnt" marks here and there. I used just the heated plate on this print.
    [​IMG]
    AND here we have the other side.... It's almost like Two-face designed this... [​IMG]

    So this one.... Well, I bought the Robo R1 3D printer as an impulse buy.... and my wife likes hello kitty.... SO logic will dictate that I should print her something so she doesn't go to jail for man-slaughter. It worked... FOR NOW. she's still thinks the thing's pointless because it can't do anything right. I used hair spray on this one. I was also using 190 ext temp on this one. I read that sometimes cooler print might come out better.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Lower temp to 180 and bed temp to 40. Best to start low them increase if needed. Also try slowing down the speed and see if those changes help at all.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You might want to consider different filament. The sample stuff that Robo used to include was junk.
     
  4. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll try that when i get home. speaking of filaments. do anyone have trouble feeding it in? like mine will come out of the side 50 times before it gets to the hotend
     
  5. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Yeah. It's tough to get it straight in there sometimes. I usually just remove the spring tension bolts and drop down the jhead the you can see the filament hole and insert it in.
     
  6. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    I find cutting the filament so it forms a point helps a lot. It could just be in my head though.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nope. Making a point on it helps feed it in. There is a point (on my E3D at least) where it will want to bind and not be fully fed into the hotend.
     
  8. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    180 is well below normal levels for PLA.. but it can flow at that temp.. usually. IF you're having a temp problem, its a bit too low.. maybe. minimal to no stringing, and layers missing. Looks like Esteps are too high and temp is too low. BUT that could be a red herring.

    The underside of your ... gun/cannon is just crappy because of matter control style support. Though blurry, looks like the other side was half way decent.
    your kitty cat is having some problems though, Your boxes look like they need some Estep adjustment.

    Check out the stickys on the front page of troubleshooting, they're all good. Especially the visual troubleshooting guide in this case. check for loose belts and pulleys, though I really don't see that.
    check that your steps are all correct ( I think they are, but not bad to check 2560/80/80 er whatever)

    You'll get the hang of feeding the filament. I haven't missed in a while.. Knock on wood. Just use the notch to guide you in the x direction and the bearing to guide in the y direction.. 90 percent of the time, it works every time. Or print a different extruder style when you figure it out a bit better. There aren't worse configurations.
     
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  9. nierro

    nierro Member

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    check that your steps are all correct ( I think they are, but not bad to check 2560/80/80 er whatever)

    [/QUOTE]

    Thanks!... now what's estep? Haha sorry.

    I m omw to frys to pick up some filaments. It looks like they have makerbot, Saxton and some other brand I can't remember the name for. Which would you guys recommend. If neither of these, what would you? Hopefully I can get some recommendations before I get there. Haha
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Calculate your esteps:
     
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  11. jaws2002

    jaws2002 New Member

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    I am also a 3d printing noob. Well, a lot less than I was a week ago, but still a noob. I had problems calibrating my printer, and after reading a lot in the forums I discovered that the firmware on my machine was for an older model of the R1. My specific problem was with the squished z axis, but after flashing the newest one, it seems like the printer is printing better at the default temps than before. It was really stringy unless I dropped it down to 190 or so, but not its perfect at 205. It may have nothing to do with your issue, just something you might check on. I also couldnt get any Estep changes to save.
    On the bright side of things, we are getting like a crash course on 3d printers.
     
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  12. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

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    The PLA sample I got from Robo I ran at 210, bed temp at 50C*. I didn't have any problems. I just got my Robo three weeks ago, and it was a Dec built unit, so if yours is as new as that you might have the same batch of PLA that came with mine.
     
  13. bwalker000

    bwalker000 New Member

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    I am running hot right now. 60C bed and 215C extruder. Running with HATCHBOX 1.75mm Black PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm from Amazon. $22 bucks per Kg and I'm getting great print quality.

    I will say that I did not have good luck with the filament and software that came originally. I've upgraded to Simplify3D and this filament. I've also added a fan shroud for the part cooling fan, and oiler, and a spool feeder. Really happy with what I'm seeing. I'm running the MAKE Magazine test objects now and I when I have them all together I'll post.
     
  14. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Thanks for the helps guys. I got a MG filament for now to try a different one. Seem to have way better quality prints now. Still little problems here and there. I think most of them will be solved once I do estep thing, but one problem that I do not get is when I start to print something rather will be with slic3r or just printing model. The z axis seem to start off very low and instead of extruding, it leaves a PLA sh#t stain on the bed until I twist the z axis rod to lift it up manually. Any idea why this is happening?

    Also are some R1 robo come equipped with the z stabilizer and some dont? My z rod is attached to the plastic casing, and I see lot of people saying that theirs move around so 1st thing I should print is the stabilizer.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Your initial Z offset is too low.
     
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  16. nierro

    nierro Member

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    What's a good number to set it? Or is it something I should just play with it and see?
    Where can I find where I can change this?
     
  17. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    follow the sticky. Tells you what to do.
    There isn't "a number" there's your number.
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ben nailed it.
     
  19. nierro

    nierro Member

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    Thank you guys, been a great help!
     

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