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What to do when the extruder stepper gags

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lance Weston, Aug 8, 2024.

  1. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I began to print a larger object. The extruder would start to skip steps at so time into the print. I found as the temp went up it failed earlier and as the speed went down it failed earlier. I posited that the filament was probably flowing out of the print head faster than the feed speed causing too much build up of plastic.

    I brought the speed way up and now was printing perfectly, with the exception of some ringing in the print.

    So if you have the problem I would take the temp down or the speed up.
     
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  2. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I am making up some non critical parts. I have been using old PLA of various manufactures just to get rid of it. I use the Partsbuilt system board. I found this one roll that would not complete a print. In looking at the filament after the extruder stepper began dropping steps I could not find anything wrong. The extru8der stepper was running pretty cool. I began bringing up the current until the stepper hit 120F during print. I took the extruder temp up to 235C. Now it worked.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Stepper motor could be getting weak. It may have a winding failing. I would try another since the stepper motors are not expensive. If that fails then the Pololu driver for it may be having issues.
     
  4. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    First thing I did was to replace the 42mm stepper with a 48mm stepper. I then adjusted the current.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As long as the new stepper has the same step profile (degrees per step) you should be fine then. You would have already accounted for any extra current it might have needed in that case. Thing is, if degrees/step were wrong it would be wrong in all cases, so not your issue.
     
  6. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I have changed all of my steppers from 1.8 degree to 0.9 degree. this has resulted in quieter operation but did not give me the quality improvement I was hoping for. I think I have run into the maximum quality the system can supply. The spring in the belts driving the weight in the steppers seems to be the limiting factor. I can move speed down, but I find that my lower speed limit is about 20mm/s after which quality goes down. My best compromise is about 30 mm/sec for quality. If I just want to make mechanical parts I can print at 70 mm/sec. This is for PLA. All this is with the caveat that as I learn I often find that previously, I was completely wrong.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I agree and even more so on the R1 style since the belts are longer and less cleverly run.

    We all are in that group :) Constantly learning.
     
  8. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I am printing up some non critical mechanical parts that take about half an hour each. I got the dreaded stepper missing steps and gagging. I thought this a perfect time to figure out the parameters that cause it.

    I am using cheap PLA.

    Temperature: gagging stopped as I moved the temp down to 205 above 205 causes problems
    Speed: no effect. Works from 20mm/sec to 50mm/sec
    layer thickness: Fails at .1 works from .15 to .25 This seems really odd and I have no idea why

    My observation is that the print head just stops being able to feed the filament. When I pull out the filament it looks fine with an expanded bulb the width of the inside of the nozzle at the end.

    I just moved so my machine shop is down for the foreseeable future so I can not make physical mods. The heat break on my hot end is shorter than what I normally had because of the Chinese parts that came in. When I am able I will machine a variety of heat break lengths to see if that is the source of my problems. I am positing that the hotter the print head the more likely that the retracted filament in a short heat break hitting a cold heatsink will seize. Like many reasonable assumptions will probably fail an actual test
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What size nozzle? With a .4 I have troubles getting too thin, but speed is the largest factor usually.
    I keep one with .2, another using a volcano to 1.0 or a .8 depending on the job and the rest at .4 (of the Robo ones at least). The R2 is on the stock nozzle, but the C2 is 0.2 since I am usually doing more detailed work with it. The R1 series are the assorted ones.
     

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