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Wits end.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Ricky_Spanish, Oct 3, 2014.

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  1. collin

    collin New Member

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    it can only be one of 2 things.
    1. bad switch
    2. bad connection

    check to make sure the end stops are properly connected to the ramps board, these tend to be knocked loose.
     
    #21 collin, Oct 7, 2014
  2. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    Yeah, it was a bad solder joint. I fixed it.
     
    #22 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 7, 2014
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  3. collin

    collin New Member

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    is it still giving you any problems?
     
    #23 collin, Oct 7, 2014
  4. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    I need to work on oiling my filament to stop clogs on big prints, but everything else seems to be ok.
     
    #24 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 7, 2014
  5. collin

    collin New Member

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    Ya know, ive never oiled and ive never gotten a jam ever.
    I ran a ptfe tube from my e3d v6 through the exturder box to the hobbed bolt like this.
    never had even one jam since. I just completed two back to back 33 hour prints.
    just something to think about.
    also know that a big cause of jams is a z offset that's way too low.
    IMG_20140907_212032435_HDR.jpg
     
    #25 collin, Oct 7, 2014
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  6. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    I have the extruder on my other printer set up like that for guiding Ninja-flex. I may look into it on this one.
     
    #26 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 7, 2014
  7. collin

    collin New Member

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    If you ever get an e3d(pro tip) you should, it makes life really easy
     
    #27 collin, Oct 7, 2014
  8. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    Well, since you mentioned it. It turns out my hotend was cracked around the threaded part of the heatbreak, and that was causing my oozing, so when it built up between the heatblock and the hex, it pushed it the rest of the way apart. Are you guys having better luck with the E3D V6, or should I just replace the Hexagon? I really don't want to wait on ROBO, so I'm probably getting stuck with the bill anyway.
     
    #28 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 7, 2014
  9. collin

    collin New Member

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    I'm glad you asked. Everyone on here who AHS been on here for longer than a few months has one. The hexagon is just a knock off of the e3d. The e3d is the best you can get. Make sure to get it from printedsolid.com and ask for a "thermocoupler" to replace thethermister. You will never ever have a serious problem if you set up your e3d like me.
     
    #29 collin, Oct 7, 2014
  10. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    Does it cause any problems with the auto-level or any other calibration?
     
    #30 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 7, 2014
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  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Nope it's a drop in replacement.
     
    #31 Mike Kelly, Oct 8, 2014
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  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Can you snap a picture of what you mean by the cracked heat break?
     
    #32 Mike Kelly, Oct 8, 2014
  13. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    Mike, I'll post it in a few. Collin, how do I get to the option for a thermocouple on printedsolid?
     
    #33 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 8, 2014
  14. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    20141007_221640.jpg
    It was leaking from one side of the tube above the threaded end, and when the plastic built up to the hex, it pushed it sideways and broke it the rest of the way off.
     
    #34 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 8, 2014
  15. collin

    collin New Member

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    Just put in in the special requests box or special instructions box. Matt will hook you up
    @Printed Solid
     
    #35 collin, Oct 8, 2014
  16. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    One more question Collin, if I get the bowden version, will it allow me to run a short bowden tube up to the hobbed bolt to guide soft filaments in, or will it not fit into the cavity above the hotend?
     
    #36 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 8, 2014
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  17. collin

    collin New Member

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    Get the direct version. Here's why: you still will have a PTFE tube running out of it but the PTFE adapter will actually fit in the hot end slot. You will have to drill out the filiment hole a tad to get the PTFE tube to fit bit that's all. Make sure you have a long enough PTFE tube to make it to the extruder wheel. When you install the PTFE tube you are going to want to make sure it is as deep in the heatsink as it can get. If you don't sometimes jams will occur.
     
    #37 collin, Oct 8, 2014
  18. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    The Hexagon is a capable hotend. I really commend team robo for switching over to it. Between that, the heated bed, and the build volume, I think the robo is the most capable printer in it's price class by far. The E3D V6 is a step up though. Really well designed hot end. I don't advise people to pitch the hexagon, but if you need to replace it anyways, the V6 is a great way to go.

    I don't stock thermocouples. Never actually had anyone ask for one before now. Unless you're going to really do high temp stuff, you're better sticking with a thermistor. I do have a stud thermistor which screws into the V6 and is a really nice upgrade: http://www.printedsolid.com/shop/e3d/stud-thermistor/

    For 1.75mm, the V6 is universal. Exact same design for bowden and direct drive. The only difference is that the bowden kit includes a coupler for the stepper/hobbed bolt end and a longer piece of tubing.

    And now, I must go print this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:479949
     
    #38 Printed Solid, Oct 8, 2014
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  19. Ricky_Spanish

    Ricky_Spanish Member

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    Thanks, Printed. I have one of those thermistors, since it's what my other machine runs, so I'm good. I'll be ordering a V6 right now.
     
    #39 Ricky_Spanish, Oct 8, 2014
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  20. collin

    collin New Member

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    Hexagon hot end rating "capable" I giggled a bit. Just to be clear not totally knocking on it, but it is a copy of the e3d. Anyways I'm glad you've decided to upgrade. Let me know I'd you having any problems routing that PTFE tubing into the hobbed bolt. I can provide additional pics of my set up if needed.
     
    #40 collin, Oct 9, 2014
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