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Solved X-Axis Homing Reversed?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sylva, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Sylva

    Sylva Member

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    Hi all,

    So, I'm having a bit of a problem with a printer I bought. The previous owner tried upgrading it to a v6 and ruined the wiring entirely so I finally got the wiring under control and now having an issue with the stepper motors.

    X-Axis Issue - The printer had a broken x-axis stepper motor, (all it did was literally vibrate) so I replaced it with a fresh stepper motor and I tested it to see if it would run the axis correctly. well it does until I click "Home X" on S3D. Once clicked, it auto homes the X-axis away from the endstop and if not caught in time slams into the end of the rail.
    I went into the firmware and loaded the firmware to the robo r1+ with 8mm rod firmware marlin file and still has the same issue.

    Other mention able issues-

    Z-Axis Issue - The z-axis refuses to move at all. I'm curious if the z-axis is meant to have only one or two endstop switches installed as mine only seems to have one.

    I also do not have any fans installed yet as I plan on printing upgrades for this on by next weekend, although I dont see how they would affect the stepper movements.

    Thanks,

    Eternally confused,
    Sylva
     
    #1 Sylva, Nov 21, 2017
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just reverse the connector to the RAMPS board on the X Axis and it will move in the opposite direction.

    Z axis, post a picture please.

    Fans would not affect stepper movements.
     
    #2 WheresWaldo, Nov 21, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, reverse the stepper motor connector on the RAMPS like @WheresWaldo said.

    Pictures will help, but I would guess that you have the Beta, not the R1 and not the R1+. The beta had a single Z axis switch hung off of a mount on one of the threaded rods. It did not come with autoleveling enabled either. You can (with some help) either get that one printing enough to print the parts you need or someone can mail you the printed parts to convert it to use the autoleveling that the R1 came with. It is not terribly hard to do.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Nov 21, 2017
  4. Sylva

    Sylva Member

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    I just swapped it and didn't work, but left it swapped and then tested the endstop connections and had it on the normally closed position, now have it on normally open which works for homing. However, now I can't get them to move to a designated position i.e. X + 10/y+10 position readouts.

    so as far as the z-axis goes. here are the images of the setup as it sits right now.

    20171121_172342.jpg 20171121_172357.jpg 20171121_172407.jpg
     
    #4 Sylva, Nov 21, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So you do have two switches, one just has no wires?
    There is your problem :)

    (well, one of them) At least you do have an R1 then

    The Z switches are in series, normally open contacts that are closed with the carriage on them and they "open" when the Z is homed.
    If the wires are disconnected on either of them then the Z is always "home" and you will not get proper movement. It will (for example) not go down to the bed like it should.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Nov 21, 2017
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    #6 mark tomlinson, Nov 21, 2017
    Sylva likes this.
  7. Sylva

    Sylva Member

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    #7 Sylva, Nov 21, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Trace the wiring back to the electronics from the one switch that does have wires. The other switch should have wires in series with that same switch. That way if either switch opens (which means the crossbar is lifting up because the nozzle is touching the bed) then you are at Z home. With one switch disconnected it will not work at all. I suppose it is possible someone rewired it to simply bypass the second switch, but that is not good either.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Nov 22, 2017
  9. Sylva

    Sylva Member

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    I traced it and the wiring was cut at that splice. Do I have to resplice the wiring or are there premade splitter endstop wires I can get?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
    #9 Sylva, Nov 22, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I am not aware of any premade wire looms or partial ones. You can just splice it back in... just a switch so not too hard to work with.
     
    #10 mark tomlinson, Nov 22, 2017

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