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Solved Z Axis out of Tune ... or Something?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Stephen Capistron, Feb 15, 2015.

  1. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    My z-axis is acting up a lot. It had been very jittery on moves and the motors were clearly not operating smoothly.

    From doing some poking around between here, other forums, and Tom's Guide videos I took a guess at it being the stepper driver. Well me poking around down there did not help any as it is the same or worse now. I've tried countless different settings on the driver board to get it to run smooth and just can't seem to come up with anything. I'm starting to think I might need a new driver board or worse. The X and Y move fine though.

    So I've surmised that the reference voltage can be set on the board to anywhere from 0 to 1.7 volts and this seems to occur over a range of about 270 degrees of rotation of the potentiometer. Does anyone know the voltage the Z axis should be set for and what sort of accuracy would be needed? My best guesses were .68 and 1.36. Neither of those seemed to work. I have also tried dynamically tuning at this point with and without the carriage. By sending the motor a command to move and turning the potentiometer at the same time and I can't seem to land on a spot that generates smooth movement. Only variations of jitters, stalls, and jerks.

    My rate of movement (speed, acceleration, and jerk) on the Z are all stock out of the box.

    Should I try swapping an X or Y motor into the Z stepper position on the board to see if it is the motor? And also try the opposite, connect a Z-axis motor to an X or Y stepper?

    For now I'm going to go take care of the foot of snow outside.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly. Either of those will work. If it is not the motor it is likely the stepper driver card on the RAMPS or, possibly the wiring (but less likely given your symptoms).
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Just out of curiosity have you lubricated your Z rods? That can help with any sticking or stalling that occurs.
     
  4. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    Now that I am all shoveled out I swapped the X and You with the Z to isolate the driver from the motor. It is totally the driver.

    Should I have Robo send me a new driver or just order a new one from someone else. If so is it worth anything to get the TI DRV8825 over the A4988?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Both I'd say.
    That's a good question on the TI DRV8825 maybe @Ziggy would have a better insight on that.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would do both. They are cheap, get a couple of spares. No real advantage of one over the other (the current ones are the Pololu).

    I just got the Pololu (in fact I picked up an entire kit of spares, Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4 and drivers...)
     
  7. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    Well I've ordered some replacements and asked Robo for some as well. Now I wait...

    When they arrive the procedure would be to turn the potentiometer down such that the reference voltage is zero and slowly increase until the motor runs smooth?
     
  8. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    More info on the differences between the standard RoBo driver and the DRV8825 driver

    https://www.pololu.com/product/2133

    Pololu have tried to make the 8825 a drop in replacement for the A4988. Main issue on the RoBo would be changing the Ramps driver steps settings back to 1/16 from the 1/32 on the 8825.

    If you are not comfortable with some experimenting, then I would stick with the A4988.
     
    #8 Ziggy, Feb 16, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2015
    2 people like this.
  9. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    So my bundle of replacement parts arrived and I am amazed out how easy it was to get the new stepper driver in and running.

    Any recommendations for a heat sink adhesive alternative? Crazy glue?
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  11. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    I agree, I would not use superglue since it's not very thermally conductive. That's kinda the whole point of the heatsink. :)

    I recently re-did my video card, and the temperature under full load went from 90C to 42C. Diamond loaded heatsink compound and a water jacket as opposed to air and crappy cheap thermal paste.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Given the size of the chip and the size of the sink and the thermal limit -- super glue will do the trick.
    I would agree though that if you can spring for better, then go for it.
     
  13. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    More of a case of not wanting to wait for better. I decided on loctite.

    Besides I have four more spares...
     
  14. dbvanhorn

    dbvanhorn Active Member

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    Seriously good luck, but I wouldn't do it. I design PCBs for a living, and have seen what happens with undercooled power semiconductors.

    Google on an article called "Low Voltage the incompetent ignition source". I've seen this happen on a board that I was holding in my hand. The brick power supply was in "hiccup" mode, supposedly protecting the system. Flames several inches high, and a totally destroyed PCB. I didn't design that one, but I did design its replacement.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In this case you can run them w/o the sinks (heck people have had the sinks some off and not notice).
    However, if you are pushing the steppers (current wise) the sinks will help. These Pololu stepper drivers are self-limiting w/o the sinks.
    Probably worst case is you can't drive the stepper.
     

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