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Solved Z not going high enough

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by crazas, May 24, 2015.

  1. crazas

    crazas Member

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    I have been printing small items with no problem at all.
    So I tried to print a taller file and once it reached like 2,5 inches the extruder bumps the object out of the bed, like it can't go upper.
    I tried to print the same file twice with the same results.
    I am not aure if the file is corrupted or if there is something wrong woth my Z axis.
    It may be the first one because I can make it go higher with the Z+/Z- buttons in the software.
    Thanx in advance for your answers
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Under your eeprom settings what's your z steps per mm
     
  3. crazas

    crazas Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  4. krikrellim

    krikrellim New Member

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    I am having a similar problem. I set the z steps per mm to the 2560 that was suggested in other posts. When I printed a calibration part, .5 x 1 x 1 box, the x,y and z dimensions were less than .010 off. But when I try printing more complex parts that require a lot on/off of the extrusion head, the head movement knocks the small features off or wipes the supports away.

    I am using:

    PLA (blue that came with printer)
    low resolution
    default settings for temps
    z offset 0.8 mm for bed)

    I just got the printer a couple days ago so I have worked thru the following issues:

    * z-axis scaling (saving to EEPROM doesn't stick after power cycling)
    * x and y-axis belt tensioning
    * checked set screw tightness on pulleys
    * cleaned filament drive off and adjusted preload on follower bearing

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Kirk
     
  5. crazas

    crazas Member

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    Tryed to print the same file for the third time, same results, the extruder knock the part out of the bed.




    Edited for typos (sorry)
     
    #5 crazas, May 26, 2015
    Last edited: May 27, 2015
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have an R1 with 8mm rods then your Z steps are incorrect from the screenshot you posted.
    They should be 2560.


    You can fix this more permanently by installing the correct firmware

    http://help.robo3dprinter.com/Wiki/RoBo_3D_Firmware

    Install the autolevel with M8
     
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  7. krikrellim

    krikrellim New Member

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    I found that entering a new scale factor didn't even stick while the printer was on, It would for a very small simple part like the calibration cube. So installing correct firmware is necessary. When the new firmware compiled in the arduino software, you have to follow the robo3d support page directions exactly. I didn't put the files in the arduino folder like the directions said, I navigated to folder I extracted to. It compiled ok, and set the z setting, but something didn't get connected so it still printed like it did before with a -20% scale factor error in the z-axis.

    When I moved the files to the "sketch" directory, opened sketchbook, compiled and uploaded. The printer started printing much closer in the z-axis, though it seems to be about +6% scale factor error now. I just verified that this morning with a simple print. Looking forward to try a bigger part to see if the knocking features off and supports goes away now.
     
  8. krikrellim

    krikrellim New Member

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    BTW, I verified the threaded rod size by using a 5/16-18 nut from Home Depot ($0.11). If it is a M8 x 1.25 threaded rod the nut will start and go 3/4 to 1 turn and then bind. Whereas a m8 x 1.25 nut will turn freely on the rod
     
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  9. crazas

    crazas Member

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    Thanks Mark, I just got my R1 last week so I was under the impression that my firmrware was up to date, going to install the new one tonight. Thanx again
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You would think that, no? Sadly there have been issues along those lines. It is fairly painless and easy to update (and you can then make any minor customizations you want),
     
  11. crazas

    crazas Member

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    I have a little experience with an Arduino UNO (working with the R2 Builders club to make my own Astromech), this one must be just the same process.
    Big thanx again.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are welcome, good luck.

    This is an identical process to that for the Uno, Leonardo, etc. Just load the firmware like any other sketch.
    The Mega just has more room for code* and there is a larger chunk of code to upload. :)

    *OK, there are other minor differences, but none in how you load the code
     
  13. crazas

    crazas Member

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    Solved!

    Thank you for your help
     

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