Solved Z offset off

I havnt experienced that issue but i would suggest double checking that for your current profile the z is set and saved(close out of the slicer and reopen it)

 

Im not sure im following you. What is the print defect ?

 

If its the warping how does the first layer actually look when its printing ? As far as the offset id suggest cleaning the bed reapplying and seeing what that does. Typically warping(im assuming pla) is due to heat issue.

 

Whats your start up script look like ?

 

What the LCD controller is displaying may not match up to what the software is saying.
When you do a G92 Z0 the firmware will re-zero the Z (make the current Z position the new '0') .
The software may still be tracking an absolute value (just for looks).

What material is warping? With warp the material and temperatures are the key elements.

 

OK, that helps us know what you are doing.

Odd that you need that high of a bed temp. PLA prints fine with no heated bed (low levels of heat do help it to stick better).

The warping is probably due to your bed heat. Prints warping is always a heat control issue. ABS is more susceptible to it (as far as materiel properties go) but any filament can warp if the heat is not managed well. What I mean is that a large difference in temperature across the print can cause it to warp. Generally speaking you wan to use as little heat as possible with PLA. It could also be an issue with the filament itself, but that is uncommon. Have you tried with less bed heat? What are you extruding at?

With ABS it can be the other way around since more bed heat raises the overall general temperature of the bed/print area which helps stabilize the heat drop across the model... (ABS really wants a heated chamber for best results).

This is why I say print / bed temperature discussions are largely not a terribly informative discussion Everyone has a different environment and that is what matters... the entire print environment (at least with an open-bay/non-enclosed printer).

 

Yes, compared to others:

http://store.makerbot.com/replicator2x

The Robo is wide open. That is one of the reasons you see closed bay printers. Even if they do not have a heated chamber it helps a lot to just enclose it. @Mike Kelly designed an enclosure for the robo that @Printed Solid sells (I think he still carries it -- https://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/robo-3d-safety-enclosure-kit ) Although they call it a safety enclosure to set expectations correctly

 

Of course one way the Robo gets that ginourmous print area (compared to others) is to not enclose it
That and the way the parts move (on some the build plate moves for Z rather than the print head)

 

Not for PLA

Make sure your parts cooling fan is on 100% after layer 2 or 3 and that it is blowing on the print...

Neither of my Robos warps PLA so it is more likely settings than mechanics

 

If it is correctly positioned for your hotend it will work really well.
I have one I use with a ducted fan shroud. It is the one with the Volcano hotend (which can print a lot hotter). The other one I just use a normal fan -- BUT not the stock fan... it didn't push much air.