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  <channel>
    <title>Mods and Upgrades</title>
    <description>Mods and Upgrades</description>
    <pubDate>Fri, 09 Oct 2026 01:45:30 +0000</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Fri, 09 Oct 2026 01:45:30 +0000</lastBuildDate>
    <generator>ROBO 3D User Forum</generator>
    <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?forums/mods-and-upgrades.84/</link>
    <atom:link rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?forums/mods-and-upgrades.84/index.rss"/>
    <item>
      <title>Filament oiler, Mark was right</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2026 20:56:13 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/filament-oiler-mark-was-right.25083/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/filament-oiler-mark-was-right.25083/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I had accidentally purchased some 3mm filament heatsinks instead of 1.75mm heatsinks.  My solution was to buy 3mm OD brass tubing with a 2mm ID.  I ran the tubing from the print head gear straight through the print head, through the heatsink to the nozzle. This worked really well until I got tubing where the ID was too small.   The solution was to get tubing that had an ID of 2.4mm.  The filament just glided through the 2.4mm ID tubing.<br />
<br />
Everything went to hell and I did not place the fault...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/filament-oiler-mark-was-right.25083/" class="internalLink">Filament oiler, Mark was right</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Perfect Finish achieved</title>
      <pubDate>Tue, 04 Aug 2026 03:22:11 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/perfect-finish-achieved.25080/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/perfect-finish-achieved.25080/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[To my surprise everything I thought I knew about making a great finish was wrong. It is all so counter intuitive.<br />
<br />
The fastest jerk the printer can supply without skipping steps gives the best results.  I started using slower acceleration gradually increasing jerk settings until I had problems.  I found that the extruder jerk must be faster than the X,Y jerk.  Having established jerk I began bringing up acceleration.  I did find a corner where increased acceleration produced declining...<br />
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<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/perfect-finish-achieved.25080/" class="internalLink">Perfect Finish achieved</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>In Pursuit of a better finish</title>
      <pubDate>Tue, 21 Jul 2026 19:01:09 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/in-pursuit-of-a-better-finish.25078/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/in-pursuit-of-a-better-finish.25078/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[When my Robo system board died after a clog I wound up designing the Partsbuilt system board with plugable  stepper drivers.  The exact failure mode was the extruder stepper would alternate between printing and stopping.  The Partsbuilt system board uses a standard Arduino board and from time to time it gets the exact same failure requiring me to stock replacement boards and I have not figured out the way the board fails.<br />
<br />
Having the ability to play with the steppers and stepping rate I went...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/in-pursuit-of-a-better-finish.25078/" class="internalLink">In Pursuit of a better finish</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Robo R2 Rebuild Phase 1</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 15 Feb 2024 02:24:36 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-rebuild-phase-1.24854/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-rebuild-phase-1.24854/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (LordPeq)</author>
      <dc:creator>LordPeq</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[So, it’s time for an upgrade. I have loved this R2 since I got it. I first started my 3D printer hobby when the Robo3D R1, the original, came out. When I bought my R2, I hadn’t even thought about tearing it apart or tuning in any way. Now, I am in the middle of making a career out of this and decided to leave me career and go back to school and am now pursuing a Mechanical Engineering degree full time…. I am on trimester break until the 28th so I feel it is time to rebuild the R2, she...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-rebuild-phase-1.24854/" class="internalLink">Robo R2 Rebuild Phase 1</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Modifying the Print Head to use an 8mm Rod</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 19 Nov 2022 20:20:06 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/modifying-the-print-head-to-use-an-8mm-rod.24723/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/modifying-the-print-head-to-use-an-8mm-rod.24723/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[First: The parts look much better than photo.  Attached are the STL&#039;s for the three bottom plastic parts.  I went to a brass tube for two reasons.  The brass tube forces perfect alignment and it is smooth and replaceable/cleanable if you get a clog.  It uses different length screws as I had to increase the height of the top piece to accommodate the 8 mm bearing.<br />
<br />
I used Fushi bearings LM8LUU from Amazon.  They are verry tight and smooth.  On my proto tyoe Robo Clone I only use the 8 mm rods....<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/modifying-the-print-head-to-use-an-8mm-rod.24723/" class="internalLink">Modifying the Print Head to use an 8mm Rod</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>13</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Replace that old style Bowden tube</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2022 15:00:12 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replace-that-old-style-bowden-tube.24850/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replace-that-old-style-bowden-tube.24850/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (tkoco)</author>
      <dc:creator>tkoco</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[<a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9" target="_blank" class="externalLink" rel="nofollow">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9</a><br />
<br />
The tube going from the filament sensor to the extruder... the original tubing specification is mediocre. Replace it with Capricorn tubing (link posted above). The Capricorn tubing is slicker. You can feel the difference when feeding filament to the extruder. This mod will help when you print with TPU filament. (like NinjaFlex as an example)]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Fixing the Printhead not inserting squarely</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 24 Sep 2022 15:12:17 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/fixing-the-printhead-not-inserting-squarely.24842/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/fixing-the-printhead-not-inserting-squarely.24842/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I noticed that identical printers would print differently, one printing a rough surface in spots and the other not.  I traced it down to the printhead not being inserted absolutely square to the metal plate.  On my printheads I changed the bottom plastic to be completely round against the printhead so that when the printhead was inserted it was square before I tightened the screw.  It makes a difference for the better.  Attached is the STL for the bottom plastic with that modification.]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Updated Bed temp table</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 12 Aug 2022 02:37:04 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/updated-bed-temp-table.24830/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/updated-bed-temp-table.24830/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I use 4mm microporous glass beds.  I found that there was a significant drop in temp across the glass using a thermal gun.  I stepped through the the table I had made for the 3950 thermistor used in the R2 on both Bed and extruder.  I then changed the table to reflect the actual surface temp of the glass.  The resulting table seems to give me about 1C accuracy.<br />
<br />
I take the glass and use thermal plaster on each corner to attach to bed.  That way I maintain the flatness of the glass and have...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/updated-bed-temp-table.24830/" class="internalLink">Updated Bed temp table</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Problem with z axis repeatability</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 10 Jul 2022 02:21:47 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-z-axis-repeatability.24823/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-z-axis-repeatability.24823/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I should preface this with: the R2 with the problem is my oldest R2, from 2018 and has run 24/7 since its purchase.<br />
<br />
Over the course of a month one of my R2&#039;s started having problems with the z axis repeatability resulting in many unusable parts.  Then the z axis switch died.  I replace the z axis sensor ( a real pain in the butt ) and while I was at it I removed the 10uf electrolytic cap on the IR board and replaced it with a much lower impedance stacked ceramic 1uf cap.<br />
<br />
The result was I...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-z-axis-repeatability.24823/" class="internalLink">Problem with z axis repeatability</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>How to fix a broken bushing block</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 03 Jul 2022 07:39:33 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/how-to-fix-a-broken-bushing-block.24820/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/how-to-fix-a-broken-bushing-block.24820/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[One of my R2&#039;s had a previously glued bushing block break again, a common problem.  It is caused by the sleeve bearing constantly being driven back and forth against the plastic.  These blocks will all fail eventually.  I did an easy fix.  I popped the two 6mm rods out of the plastic bearing holder.  I then rotated the bearing holder up and using a #32 drill, I drilled a hole above the sleeve bearing at each corner.  I used an18 mm button head ( it must be button head there is no clearance)...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/how-to-fix-a-broken-bushing-block.24820/" class="internalLink">How to fix a broken bushing block</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Robo R2 Tension arm upgrade</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 02 Jul 2022 23:15:17 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-tension-arm-upgrade.24817/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-tension-arm-upgrade.24817/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (TheJoker5150)</author>
      <dc:creator>TheJoker5150</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Does anybody have an upgraded tension arm file they would be willing to share?]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Even Better Dryer Box</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 12 Jun 2022 21:46:22 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/even-better-dryer-box.24816/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/even-better-dryer-box.24816/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I just bought a SOVOL dryer box on Aliexpress for $51 delivered and amazingly it came in three days.  It has the same stupid controls as all other dryer boxes so I attached a humidity and temperature controller which applies voltage to the heater when both the temperature is too low and humidity is too high.<br />
<br />
The controllers can be purchased for 12v or 24v and the 24v unit is simple to convert to 12v.  The Sovol is a 12v 48w unit which is great.  The Chinese controllers convert from 12v to...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/even-better-dryer-box.24816/" class="internalLink">Even Better Dryer Box</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Wild Idea</title>
      <pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2022 19:26:33 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/wild-idea.24809/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/wild-idea.24809/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (LordPeq)</author>
      <dc:creator>LordPeq</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[So I have had my R2 since 2018, I took about a year off to educate myself a little more, get divorced and have the time to devote to my hobby.  Over the last year I fully immersed myself in this tech and have my R2 tuned pretty well and it is mostly reliable.  A few things bother me continually.<br />
<br />
First, the OctoPrint plugin sucks.  It is buggy, it never wants to reconnect after any of my computers go to sleep, and when the webcam is turned on, I get an infinitely longer web page and the...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/wild-idea.24809/" class="internalLink">Wild Idea</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>14</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Robo R2 print head suggestions?</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 12 May 2022 13:04:58 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-print-head-suggestions.24802/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/robo-r2-print-head-suggestions.24802/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (August)</author>
      <dc:creator>August</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello all! in the market for a new print head. Any suggestions/stores to buy from?<br />
<br />
Did they ever do the dual hotends for this unit?  or laser engraver..]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Replacing The Hotend with E3D</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 28 Feb 2022 14:54:58 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replacing-the-hotend-with-e3d.23648/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replacing-the-hotend-with-e3d.23648/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[The E3D is a little longer than the Robo hotend.  The E3D also comes with a 3950 thermistor which is very close to the Robo thermistor.  I posted  <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3180056" target="_blank" class="externalLink" rel="nofollow">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3180056</a> a shroud that takes into account the E3D increased length.  The posting also includes a new hex file to be uploaded that has the 3950 thermistor table and decreases the z axis length to accommodate the E3D.  Also included is the original hex so that you can go back.  Just change the connectors...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/replacing-the-hotend-with-e3d.23648/" class="internalLink">Replacing The Hotend with E3D</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Improved Print Head Cable Clamp</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 20 Feb 2022 05:47:49 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/improved-print-head-cable-clamp.24759/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/improved-print-head-cable-clamp.24759/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[This clip set has both parts snap into place.  I increased the height to give more clearance for the wires and provide better clamping]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>IR board fix</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 18 Feb 2022 20:52:42 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/ir-board-fix.24729/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/ir-board-fix.24729/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I noticed that all of my IR boards had a longer distance from bed to nozzle than 3 mm.  I found that my surface mount IR board would change from 10 mm to 30 mm depending on bed surface (reflectivity.).  I posited that there was light leak from the transmitters and receiver that was transmitted/received down.  I took black RTV and put it on the bottom of the transmitters/receivers and I put the exact right size diameter heat shrink tubing over the capacitor.  My IR board went from 30 mm down...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/ir-board-fix.24729/" class="internalLink">IR board fix</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>11</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Making the perfect E3D Hotend</title>
      <pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2021 19:11:24 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/making-the-perfect-e3d-hotend.24707/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/making-the-perfect-e3d-hotend.24707/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I purchase the inexpensive hotends and throw away the aluminum block retaining the heater, thremistor, and 10mm screw.  Chinese E3D&#039;s have a .629&quot; diameter and Robos are .625&quot;  You can expand the mating hole with a screwdriver, but I cut min down to .626&quot; on a lathe.  The heatsink version shown below is tapped a little to deeply for the throat so I cut off the bottom ring and halfway to the next ring to get the throat seating perfect.  This will vary by supplier.  The standard brass/copper...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/making-the-perfect-e3d-hotend.24707/" class="internalLink">Making the perfect E3D Hotend</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Partsbuilt R2 stepper driver upgrade</title>
      <pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2021 19:01:32 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/partsbuilt-r2-stepper-driver-upgrade.24200/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/partsbuilt-r2-stepper-driver-upgrade.24200/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I had put larger higher current steppers on the x and y axis.  I was using the same A4988 stepper drivers that the Robo board used.  I set the reference to 1.2v for 1.5 amp drive.  I put the extra large heat sinks on and was running fine.  The drivers on both machined failed about the same time, a few months.  They were running hot which accelerated the thermal cycling failure time.<br />
<br />
I put in Chinese clone DVR8825 drivers and at first set to 16 micro steps for compatibility.  I did the fast...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/partsbuilt-r2-stepper-driver-upgrade.24200/" class="internalLink">Partsbuilt R2 stepper driver upgrade</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Sunlu Dryer Set and Forget Modification</title>
      <pubDate>Tue, 19 Oct 2021 14:40:32 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/sunlu-dryer-set-and-forget-modification.24644/</link>
      <guid>http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/sunlu-dryer-set-and-forget-modification.24644/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Lance Weston)</author>
      <dc:creator>Lance Weston</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[This works well.  The relays contacts are isolated, the contacts are wired in series so that both High RH% and low temp are required for the heater to be energized.  The sensor fits under the heater.<br />
<br />
There is about 3% RH and 3C hysteresis in the system because if it&#039;s mass.<br />
<br />
This stops wasted energy the heater is only on when the RH% is high and the temp low.  It is set and forget, not requiring the constant pushing of buttons to keep the heater energized.<br />
<br />
When I set for 15%RH the heater...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/sunlu-dryer-set-and-forget-modification.24644/" class="internalLink">Sunlu Dryer Set and Forget Modification</a>]]></content:encoded>
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