Solved MakeShaper PLA Settings

EDIT: Had a heat break jam, cleared it out, rebuilding the hot end now for a lower temp test. I was sent a simplify3D profile from another Robo owner who apparently had success printing this stuff at 45mm/s, 0.15mm layer height, and 0.5mm nozel, but I'm trying to get 60mm/s with 0.3mm layer height and 0.4mm nozel.

I think ive been printing the PLA too hot, I now have a jam in my heat break (I know it's super fragile, i'm trying not to mess it up). What's the safest/easiest way to clear the heat break? I was thinking of heating it up without a tip, but I'm not sure if I should try heating it without the hexagon fins as well...

 

Trying to get the extruder up an running again, just with hatchbox PLA. Does the standard R1+ hotend have a PTFE liner?

 

Alright, thanks! I seem to have something catching inside my hot break, literally tore it down 4 times now, tried ABS instead of PLA, everything's getting stuck.

 

I was looking into the e3dv6, but I'm trying not to edit the firmware. Does the Prometheus v2 require a firmware adjustment as well?

EDIT: Just read the exchange with you and RP Ironman, reading through your install post now. Very thorough!

 

Well ever since a month or two ago they started shipping the E3D with the new cartridge thermistor. Better than the one they were sending for assembly, but can't remember if that would need a firmware change or not.

 

According to their updated documentation they do include assembly with the thermistor cartridge and the firmware settings (if updated as well) still show that you need to set #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5

http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Configure_Firmware_.28Easy.21.29

BTW @David Howarth no matter which hotend you end up getting to replace the hex, be sure to do a PID tuning of the hotend.

 

Yikes, I just bought two spools of this stuff from them! Wish I saw this thread first.

 

Too late for an RA?

 

I don't think my experience is the norm, I'm pretty sure I just managed to mess up the heatbreak in the process. One thing to consider according the company is that it doesn't flow as fast as some other filaments. Also you can contact their customer service and they'll have an engineer contact you later. Please let me know if you find a good setup! One user was printing at 0.25mm layer height with a 0.5mm tip at 45mm/s and having success. I didn't have time to try those settings before i replaced the hot end though...

 

Thanks, I actually got a replacement hexagonal one from Amazon (robo is sold out, also the shipping speed from Amazon seems much better). It seems to be working great, do you think I should still do a PID tuning?

 

I would just to make sure.

 

Weird question - in a PID tuning post you mention that the firmware should be edited after PID tuning, and someone said there's technically a Gcode for a temporary switch. Would it be cumbersome to adjust that PID values before each print by just adding a starting Gcode script or does it take a long time?

 

Yes you can remotely set it with g code, but I recommend that you just update the firmware. Then it is set for sure.

 

It's still in transit and should arrive Saturday or early next week. Worse comes to worse I could always donate them to the local high school. I think they just got a 3D printer for their tech classes. In the mean time I ordered a spool of Hatchbox black off of Amazon.

I'm new to 3D printing and will be using the hot end and nozzle that came stock (I think that's a .4 nozzle right?). Based on what you describe I should go into MatterHacker and make a custom setting rather than use the preset PLA settings?