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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

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  1. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    yes. I played around with Cura last night a little.

    This may also help a bit. ;)

    [​IMG]
     
    #81 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 15, 2017
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  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Printing pretty well at the moment.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    :rolleyes:
     
    #82 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 15, 2017
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  3. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Any risk in installing a larger internal fan while I'm in there hooking up the LCD?
     
    #83 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 16, 2017
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Mine are both 3.5" fans.
    Use whatever you want. You do not even have to power them off of the RAMPS, just power them directly from the 12v supply.
     
    #84 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Curtis Wolfe I have an 80 x 80 x 15 mm fan installed in the bottom of my Robo. It is much quieter than the 40 mm sq fan originally there. It blows a lot more air. Even on the hotest days I have no fear of overheating the Arduino/RAMPS boards even with prolonged printing sessions.
     
    #85 WheresWaldo, Mar 16, 2017
  6. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Thanks guys. I picked up a 80mm fan yesterday. I figured I may as well while I have opened up.

    As soon as the bottom of the LCD case is finished printing. I came across a 2lb (.9kg) roll of translucent orange at Fry's for $11 the other day. So, the next thousand prints or so will be orange. LOL

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Happy printing!
     
    #86 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 16, 2017
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Curtis Wolfe I hope that fan isn't too thick, you only have about 16-18 mm of clearance from the bottom cover to the RAMPS board, anything larger than that won't fit.
     
    #87 WheresWaldo, Mar 16, 2017
  8. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Hmmmm. I guess we'll see when I open it up tomorrow.
     
    #88 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 16, 2017
  9. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    So, I have the LCD installed, and Cura installed on the PC.

    Three things when I send the print to the printer from the LCD screen.

    It doesn't go through the auto leveling
    It doesn't know where the printed bed center is. It's trying to print off the bed
    The Z offset is way too far from the bed


    I guess I'm making progress. Haven't been able to print for the past 24 hours

    Curtis
     
    #89 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Startup GCode?
    Should be something like this (at a bare minimum):

    G28;
    M565 Z-1.0
    G29;
     
    #90 mark tomlinson, Mar 17, 2017
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have to have defined the printer (X/Y/Z sizes in Cura somewhere too)
     
    #91 mark tomlinson, Mar 17, 2017
  12. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Curtis, what is your process?
    You are just saying
    Lot's of assumptions can be made like you did all the steps or you are not doing the correct steps.

    1. load your .stl file into your slicer software.
    2. Save the gcode file to a memory card.
    3. Transfer the card from the pc to LCD controller.
    4. Choose the gcode file on the memory card to print and print.

    I know this sounds funny, but when I started I actually was copying the .stl file to the card and trying to print from the SD slot on the printer.

    What ever settings are set in your slicer software (like MatterControl or Cura) these are transferred to the SD card in the gcode file. Auto level should be a part of the process too.
     
    #92 Rigmarol, Mar 17, 2017
  13. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    1. load your .stl file into your slicer software. YES
    2. Save the gcode file to a memory card. YES
    3. Transfer the card from the pc to LCD controller. YES
    4. Choose the gcode file on the memory card to print and print. YES

    The Start up Gcode is

    G92 E0 ;
    M565 Z-1 ;
    G1 Z5 F5000 ;
    G29 ;


    G28 is the auto level isn't it. I don't see it here.

    I really appreciate you guys helping me out.

    Thanks
     
    #93 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    G28 homes it initially it won't do most of the other if not homed first.

    G28 ; home all axes
    G29; init autoleveling

    G29; will not happen if it doesn't home first.
     
    #94 mark tomlinson, Mar 17, 2017
  15. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I copied your Gcode start up and stuck it in there Mark. Let's see what happens
     
    #95 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
  16. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Nothing it just heated up to temp and didn't do anything
     
    #96 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
  17. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Well, It homed itself and then did the auto leveling, but it's still trying to print off the bed.

    Getting closer
     
    #97 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Adjust that M565 value.

    Like I said more negative is further off the bed (not what you want) more positive is closer to the bed.
    Do it in small increments (0.01)
     
    #98 mark tomlinson, Mar 17, 2017
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not usual for -1.0 to be the correct number :)
    It is a starting point

    Paste in the first 50 lines of your GCode too. We can see if it is doing anything odd.
     
    #99 mark tomlinson, Mar 17, 2017
  20. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm sorry. Not the Z off set. It's not initiating the print in the center of the bed. It's trying to print in the front left corner where its hitting the stopper switch.
     
    #100 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 17, 2017
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