Unresolved Help broken infill???

my test print came out pretty good at1800mm/min and 150% and now I was trying to up it to 2700mm/min and have gone all the way up to 210 and everywhere from 150% to 200% at 5 degree increments and nothing has come out to great, still at least 10-20% broken.

I have also noticed that it seems like the software compensates for the over extrusion. the gaps in the infill get wider as the extrusion is upped.
Guess i will try 2250mm/min next to see if i can get a little more speed out of it?

 

I have been thinking about upgrading to the e3d 6 but I haven't heard about the volcano adapter?

 

Only way to half the time is double the layer height. Speed rate has very little affect on print times (maybe 5% for every 30mm/s). Unless you're printing a lot of very long straight sections so it spends most of it's time at top speed. Short objects (100mm or less) won't really spend much time at top speed.

As mentioned Acceleration and Jerk settings have a much bigger impact on print time.

Above all, print time is worthless if the print comes out bad.

I still think you should try like 220-230 for temperature

 

Mike I looked for the acceleration option last night but couldn't find it... Do you remember what tab its under and what it's called? ...I will try the 220-230 range as well but that seems more like an abs setting than a pla. I also still am using the factory print head with the Teflon tube in it... I don't have the haxagon hotend.

 

It's not a setting in slicer software. You can adjust it with either G-code or firmware. I suggest flashing the latest firmware from here: help.robo3dprinter.com/Wiki/RoBo_3D_Firmware

There's not really such a thing as "ABS or PLA" temperatures. Temperature is largely due to filament and nozzle conditions. If your nozzle has a partial clog you'll need to run hotter, etc.

 

thanks guys. I did get the infill to come out pretty good at 2300mm\min with the temp at 215 and extrusion @ 185% so I tried the block with 3 solid bottom and3 solid top layers and it seemed to hot for the top layers, even tried it with 5 top layers and couldn't get it sealed up?

 

Would I have to add another profile to do that or is there a setting (looked and couldn't find one) all I could find was a speed reduction setting for solid layers.?

 

Ok never mind.... I know how to do.... I've been doing it the whole time for the first and second layer on the heat bed....

 

I'm actually working on bridge setting right now and have in gym issues with that.... So I am actually trying dropping the temp from 215 to 195 for the 2 bridge layers and than back up to 215 after that? ... But the fact that it prints the outside parameters first keeps messing it up the nozzle keeps getting stuck on that and bunching up?

 

I think it has something to do with the fact that the two outside parameters are printer with what looks like normal settings( so it doesn't actually bridge and leaves a clump at the edge) and then the bridge is printed at its setting.....this is making it difficult to figure out settings