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Unanswered prints thin/stringy and layers separate easily (weak prints)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by max longstaff, Feb 5, 2016.

  1. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    I have managed to get my printer printing consistently at last but the quality is very lacking most prints snapping apart at the slightest touch and with visible gaps between layers.

    the filament comes out very thin even at 0.3mm i have tried increasing the flow to no benefit.

    please help :)
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Could you share some photos of the print issue ?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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  5. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    When it come to 3d printing the more you share the better, the devil is in the details.

    model,age
    type filament, brand, color
    slicer, settings
    previous history

    you get the idea, the more you share the better response you will get.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    This is without seeing pictures, but first make sure your extruder is calibrated properly otherwise all the next few suggestions won't be worth much.
    1. Layer separation - Extruding too cold, under-extrusion
    2. Blobs and zits - Could be partly due to poor intra-layer bonding, see above suggestion
    3. Weak infill - see first suggestion
    4. Vibrations and ringing - Use, by Robo, of threaded rods rather than proper lead screws, Marlin acceleration figures are too high
    Fix all the rest first then we can address anything that is left.
     
  7. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    I followed a video on how to calibrate i did it but well now it wont stick to bed again :/
     
  8. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    its got nothing but worse due to the "calibration" now it can never stick to bed for some reason and it now cuts out randomly still says "printing" but it's not very much not printing. I've had this thing for over a year now and not once have I been happy with it :( at this point I wish I went with a more established brand
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Z offset would be my suspect there.

    Clogging? It is either that or USB communications failure or the slicer losing its mind.
    If it is not moving at all then USB communications breakdown...
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hard to help when the descriptions are more ambiguous and not as exact as they could be. What do you mean by "worse" and "now cuts out randomly", please be specific. It's not like the Robo is a perfect printer, in fact it has many flaws and a lot of stuff I have spoken out in posts here. But I am going to tell you that very few 3D printers are 100% reliable and/or 100% accurate and precise. You can move to another if you like, but there is zero guarantee it will be without it's own set of issues.

    Let's just use extrusion as one issue, in general:
    • Not all filaments are exactly 1.75 mm
    • Not all filaments expand and contract at the same rate, sometimes the exact filament will expand and contract at different rates
    • Besides assuring the length extruded is correct, which extruder calibration illustrates, you must also know the volume of filament extruded. The volume is generally adjusted by extrusion multiplier.
    • as a result of having to overlap extrusions in order to assist adhesion the first layer may need a small adjustment to the extrusion multiplier to fill in any gaps. Most slicers can accommodate this variable.
    If anyone is looking for Plug and Play and is looking for that promise in the current state of 3D printers, I am truly sorry you believed the hype. It is like any other precision machine tool, it requires care, maintenance, calibration and adjustments to work toward its potential.
     
  11. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    got it to print with help in shoutbox but this is my test print
     

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  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    What slicer software do you use and what is the layer height?
    Also do you have an Beta , R1 with 5/16" threaded rods, R1 with 8 mm threaded rods or an R1+PLUS?
     
  13. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    this is cube
     

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  14. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    this horrible thing was printed at 200
     

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  15. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    thats the closest thing ive had to the model in months so yeah its bad very baaad! :p
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Looks like a partial jam if all of the pictures are current tries. Like @WheresWaldo asked, model of printer? Slicer? Etc. are you running a filament oiler. We need much more information to help. With the right maintenance and information the robo can be a great machine
     
  17. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    Okay well here's all the details I guess

    -Machine was purchased in march 2015 think its the m8 with the rods going all the way up
    -It's had 3 successful prints since arriving
    -It's had an E3d v6 upgrade
    - I used to use a 3d printed oiler but I snapped it and was unable to print replacement so no oiler for a while
    -I print in PLA (yes I know I'm stupid for not using an oiler)
    -Filament brand the current reel I'm using is from Wanhao (white)
    -I had to replace the plastic that holds the springs as it was in 3 pieces on arrival (had to ship from US to UK so expected minor damage)
    -Replaced springs also as the old ones were too loose (robo3d's brian was very helpful both times and sent replacements)
    -I have purchased a new hot end that should arrive tomorrow (after a long discussion in the shoutbox I chose to replace whole hot end again, wasn't really necessary but meh)

    I'll print an oiler as soon as I get it up and running

    the new hot end should hopefully fix issues I will also be stocking up on nozzles to switch between

    I'm going to be wiring the heater core so any advice wiring that would be great (more so where the wires go ive watched a ton of installation videos for the V6 but most if not all skip over this step)
     
    #17 max longstaff, Feb 9, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2016
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Assuming the calibration is accurate (doing it multiple times and using the average) I'm sticking with it looks likes filament jam or partial clog. To check mine I waste some time but I'm a visual guy, I heat remove the hot end from the holder,then heat and remove the nozzle. I then let it cool and look thought it to verify there are no jams or partial clogs. Then I run some filament through it with the nozzle off, if all appears good and the nozzle is clear I put the nozzle back on heat and run filament dipped in canola oil to reseason. If there is a jam double check your temperature settings. Make sure your not to hot or cold.

    What slicer are you using ? When I switched from matter control (I printed at 210) I had to lower my temp ( now
    Rent between 195-200)because of jam and clog issues as the filament would be to hot and leak into my cold end causing jams.

    Please remember everyone's settings will be different.
     
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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Truer words were never typed.
     
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  20. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    I ran the calibration several times i can confirm it was a problem with nozzle I have replaced the hot end and its extruding much thicker
     

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