New stepper motor wiring keeps blowing driver

My robo3dr1+ came with the already upgraded Z axis leadscrews. However I wanted to get more Z axis height so I bought some 500mm leadscrews. I pull the machine apart to find that the existing leadscrews are made as part of the stepper motor itself.... So, back to ebay and I bought these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221412204370?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'll attach a few pics to show the wiring as I believe it should be. Assuming the current stepper motors are wired the same way as in the color code 1 row>>
and my new motors are to be wired like >>

I have connected them like this (from controller to stepper)
Red to Green
Black to Red
Blue to Grey
Green to Yellow

I was told that connecting them wrong wouldn't hurt anything and that it just wouldnt work if not correct so I wasn't too concerned about messing anything up. With the way I have them wired now (listed above) I can click to move the axis up or down and it will move a spec and blow the driver.
I've only got a few extra drivers so I'd like to get this resolved and get my machine back together. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

Thank you. I've have to check to see if this is the way mine is wired. Is there any other reason it would blow other than being wired incorrectly? The new motors say they can operate from 12 to 24 volt. Not sure what the existing ones are really.

 

I realize this now and and having upgraders regret... I'm doing the robo beast mod because I wanted to get more Z height. I wish there was a way to just use the existing stepper motors and do away with the couplers....... I've taken the original motors apart and just can not seem to get the leadscrew out of it no matter what I try....

 

My printer already came with that upgrade installed. Thats the problem as I can't use those motors for the new leadscrews. The next regret is the only leadscrews I could find in the length I wanted was a 4 start 2mm pitch. So not only am I going to (probably) get Z banding its going to be less accurate. Although if I've done my math correctly it will still be precise enough to print down to a .1mm layer height accurately.

Looking at the image you posted of the driver and switching two wires my motor is now running! Thank you!

Although I hate wasting all the money I have already on this mod If I could find motors that are direct drive like the existing ones with at least 500mm leadscrews (two start preferably) Id probably buy them to avoid the Z banding. However, I,m going to go ahead and complete the mod as it is and see how it goes.. I might get lucky but luck is not something I come across too often.

 

That funny... The flexi couplers are the ones I bought LOL! Ok, off to Amazon to get some solid ones before I continue.. Thanks for the help!

 

I did the same upgrade (beast) and I actually did buy ones put into stepper motors, but I couldn't figure out the issue with them with the steps per mm (turns out they sent the wrong motors .9/1.8 and my calculations were for the wrong type!) so I took apart the built in r1+ steppers, and just carefully removed the built in lead screw and put mine in. All it really took was a rubber mallet (light taps if you need them at all) to help loosen the motor casing, after I got the casing apart the rest just slid apart by hand. I swapped out the screws, and bam I had 600mm height and everything worked immediately once I inputed the steps per mm (400) on the LCD. Took about an hour in all to take everything apart, do the mod, and put it together and test it!

Let me know if you have any questions, or if your having trouble out up some photos of where your stuck and I'll provide any help I can. It's a great mod, I've printed tons of extremely tall things, and with the pergo true 330mm y axis mod, the extra build area is amazing!

One other thing, I would recommend printing and installing some Z axis stabilizers that fit bearings. I'll find the ones I used off thingiverse and put them up later, they aren't tightened up much, so they can move towards and away from the adjacent smooth rods, which lets them self align if anything moves a bit and helps make sure you don't tighten it all wrong, but it keeps them tight and unable to move towards and away from the build plate, which is where I was seeing issues with the carriage moving on the X axis. That mod allowed me to keep high speed printing even on very tall things, otherwise you get a lot of movement and vibration and banding at heights.


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