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Unanswered A couple of questions from a Newbie

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Toro1966, Jul 21, 2016.

  1. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Ok - Just when I thought I was getting the hang of this, I am having some issues. I printed all day yesterday with no problem. My settings were 198/50 for PLA with -.2 Z offset. All was great. Went to print some stuff tonight, having changed nothing I am aware of, and a Z offset of -.2 prevents me from extruding. I reduced it to -.01 and it is now printing at least, but I tried it with 0 Z offset and the base layer looked just lmage here : https://all3dp.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/ucg5niL-1024x576.jpg

    Which supposedly means I am too far from the bed. We'll see if -.1 works, but I don't know what changed from yesterday...Any thoughts?
     
  2. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Think I found at least part of the problem. I forgot that I did lift the bed up earlier today BEFORE I started printing anything. I think one of the magnets was probably not fully seated, playing havoc with the leveling and extrusion. Here is a pic.
    [​IMG]

    I am using PLA tonight but it is the Robo3D Metallic SIlver. What is a rough guess as to what the Z offset should be? I am -.3 now and it still seems that it is not far down enough. Pics are below. It also seems to either be bubbling up from the bottom or something else is going on. Thoughts?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][
     
  3. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Starting increasing my -z offset to -.5 Here's what I got.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I'm really at a loss. Where should I start?
     
  4. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    I think I am getting tot he root cause. In several of the pictures, the print won't print (or certainly not well) on the right side of the bed. I think I still may not have it sitting properly, though I have no idea how to fix it because the magnets appear to be in the slots and again, it was obviously aligned and working yesterday just fine. Any ideas?
     
  5. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Does anyone have the link to the site that shows what the first layer should look like? I think it was something printed in blue.
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    One sec buddy and ill find it
    It's on printedsolid.com blog section
     
  7. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks Geof. I appreciate it. I actually am in the middle of my first somewhat successful print of the day. It's not perfect and I need some advice on what to look at, but it is definitely a million times better than the other attempts. It looks like one of the magnets (or more) was not properly seated after it was moved and it was causing all kinds of problems as shown above...

    I'm going to post pictures of the latest print as soon as it finishes to hopefully get you guys' advice!
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  9. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    YUp! Thats's the one. Thanks! Also - and this may sound like a dumb question - is there a trick or easy way to ensure that the bed is level and the magnets are in the slot as they should be?
     
  10. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Ok - here's the latest pics. A few things I am noticing:
    1 - Bottom is not smooth as it should be - to be more clear - yes, it is physically smooth, but the layer is not straight lines as you would expect. Does that make sense?
    2 - Think I need to increase the infill overlap because it is not going all the way to the perimeter in a couple of locations
    3 - This is only printed in medium quality, but should the individual lines be visible on the top or should it just be a smooth and together?You can see where it made each of the passes. It feels smooth of course and there are no high areas, just not sure if it;'s normal and how to fix it if not.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    There are a lot of tweaks that come to mind but without seeing just the first layer it's hard to do more than guess.

    As far as the magnets I just slide the glass until the magnets grab. To ensure they are right I give the glass a wiggle, it shouldn't move. Are you sure your x is level with the bed?
     
  12. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    It should be - it was printing fine last night. That said, how do I check that?
     
  13. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    What does this pic mean Geof? Too high a temp, extruder down to low?
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    I changed the Z offset from -.3 (which gave me the above picture) to -.2 (which I used to print out the heart above a few posts back). So I assume the picture above means the -.3 was too low and too close to the bed. Is that correct?

    I then printed the below first layer of the batarang. I started out at 200/50. About 2/3 through the way with the first layer, I bumped the temp up to 210. Not sure this was needed or right, but I am still trying to figure out why I keep getting the texturing in the bottom layer. It might be the filament since it is a metallic silver, so I am going to try some other stuff again...

    What are your thoughts on issues with the below pics?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #34 Toro1966, Jul 22, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2016
  15. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Also - I have been using 200/50 as temps. Do you think those are too low?

    Do you see in the picture above how the line of filament being extruded seems to not be flat/round, etc, like normal, but rather looks like it's got ridges?
     
    #35 Toro1966, Jul 22, 2016
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2016
  16. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    I also found at least one of my problems. I am fairly certain I am UNDER-extruding. I did the procedure at this link - https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder - and measured from the top of the extruder - just where the filament enters - and measured up 120mm. I extruded 100 mm, and when I measured again, there was 30 left. There should have only been 20. So that is under-extruding - correct?

    Which value do I use to calculate the step difference and where do I enter it? I am asking because the link, I assume, is outdated since the mattercontrol EEPROM screen doesn't look like that. I don't have one step/mm value, I have 4 listed.

    I am going to try the test again in the morning just to make sure I have consistent results. Would under-extruding explain some of the issues above?
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    This video shows how as well. I just updated the firmware e steps and flashed the board. Under and over extrusion Carey their own set of issues with prints. It is well worth going through the calibration steps to make sure it isn't part of the issue.

     
    Geof likes this.
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Sorry for the delay. I also use the video @danzca6 posted. It works well. Calibrate and lets see what you get. That last picture to me looks like the first layer is either a little low. I also get first layers like that if my first layer height is to much.

    Ex. When my ditto had a cold build plate i had to smash my prints (z offset to close) and set my slicer to do 125% first layer height.

    As far as leveling the x to the bed... this just happens in my experience. To make sure its level lower the nozzle to the bed until a piece of paper just fits under the nozzle. Power the machine off. Slide the nozzle to the other side of the bed. If it doesnt feel the same adjust by turning that threaded rod while holding the other threaded rod. Repeat until both sides are equal.

    It doesnt neccessarily look like a typical level issue but worth checking

    Temps vary drastically machine to machine. If your not getting terrible stringing your likely not to hot
     
  19. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    Thanks guys - I appreciate it. Amazing how dumb I feel right now but I can't seem to figure a couple of things out.
    1 - I did follow Tom's video - right up until I have to change the step value. He uses Octoprint to edit his and I don't even know where to start with that. Can I change the value in Arduino and reflash? If so, is this the 723.38 E setting listed in configuration h?
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,800,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D R1

    If so, I assume I am replacing the 723.38 with the new calculated value based on the calibration - correct? How do I calculate what the new E value should be? In my case, my test showed I only extruded 90 instead of the 100mm of filament that should have been extruded.

    2 - In his video he talks about extrusion speeds. The only place I see extrusion speed is under "retraction" in MC and it says 33mm/s. Is that correct?
     
  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes the 723 is the extruder (e) steps. I dont know how you adjust the speed control in matter control as i dont use it. But he does walk you through the calibration formula so id try it at your given 100mm extrude speed and see what happens:) i use s3d and left all my settings alone and did the calibration and it worked fine for me :)
     

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