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Solved Another Print Bed Not Heating Thread

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Red Submarine, Feb 10, 2015.

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  1. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    I don't know why it's not heating but the D8 LED does not light up when I tell the bed to heat itself, which according to this thread: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/bed-not-heating.4446/#post-39232 means that I am not getting 12V to my bed from the board. Where do I go from here?

    My bed reads 21C at room temperature. If I put my finger on it for a few minutes it goes to 22C, then 23C so the thermistor is working. I've also unplugged and replugged just about everything I can think. The bed does not heat it self at all.

    Recently I had to remove the bed because a print was so stuck to it that I had to use a small chisel and hammer to remove it... However the bed was fine after that for 2 prints, it's just now stopped heating. I don't think this caused my issues but I thought I'd mention it just in case.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Either the RAMPS is bad or the wiring to the heater is bad or the heater itself is bad.

    I'd check the wires to the bed heater first. Ring them out (check for continuity with a meter) from the RAMPS and make sure you don't have a broken wire. Since you tore into that part I'd suspect that first.

    If your wires are good, then check the voltage on D8 on the Ramps when you are trying to heat the bed. Awkward to get to, be careful.
    Since the LED is not lighting it is possible that part of the RAMPS is not working (Q3 if memory serves is what drives that). Easiest thing to do is replace the RAMPS in that case. Although if you are decent with electronics you could try repairing it, but new one is faster.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Feb 10, 2015
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. generally when removing stuck prints, heating or cooling the bed can be helpful... just so you know in the future.
    If you can't pop it off when it gets cold, heat it back up.
     
  4. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Have you tried heating the extruder? If the print head thermistor is shorted, it will throw an error "min temp" and not try to heat. Can't remember if it also causes the bed to show 0 temp though.
     
  5. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    I've done several PLA prints with the broken bed, the hot end is fine.

    I tried everything for the stuck print, heating, cooling, taps from a hammer, I even iced the print with the bed hot. It was crazy.

    I'm about as bad with electronics as you can be so I'm going to ask a few more questions. There's no DIY on this so I may need to be walked through this:

    1. I have a multimeter but never used it. When testing wire connectivity do I turn the Robo off and set the meter to Ohms and then what?

    2. Assuming my wires are fine, how do I check the D8/Q3. I would think the robo needs to be on?

    3. Can I buy any RAMPS board that comes up on google?

    Sorry for all the questions. I'm a mechanic kinda guy, nuts, bolts, fuel, fire, and grit. There's two things I don't do well, electronics and fireworks because something always goes wrong... Hopefully this will be simple
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The robo doesn't need to be off or on to measure continuity. Measure the resistance across D8. It should be around 1.4 ohms. This will tell you if there's an open circuit.

    With the robo on measure the voltage coming into the 11A side of the power connector. Should be 12v.

    If you're measuring 12v coming in and the bed reports ~1.4ohms of resistance then it's isolating the problem to the polyfuse and mosfet.

    There's some testing we can do further to see if the mosfet has failed but we'll cross that bridge after we isolate the problem.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, OFF. place one probe on each end of the wire (one where the connections is on the RAMPS the other as close to the heater as you can get (not sure where your connections might be under the bed as they have varied). Look for a low resistance number.

    Yes, turn it one, turn the heater for the bed on and read VOLTS on the D8 connections. It should be less than 13v or so, but greater than zero.

    Pretty much any RAMPS 1.4, but some come with the stepper driver daughter cards and some do not. I would get one that DOES include them and you'll have spares.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The difference between the check @Mike Kelly suggested and mine is that his is including the heated bed in the loop. Not a problem, just look for a number greater than zero ohms then (1.4 sounds about right)
     
  9. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    Ok, reporting back.

    1. I did not short anything :) That's a first for me, btw

    2. I am reading about 1.6 Ohms across D8. I also unplugged the bed and got the same reading, so it looks like my bed is fine.

    3. I get NO voltage across 11A. There is about 24-26 volts coming into the power connector across from it, but nothing coming out of 11A. I checked 5A below it just to make sure I was doing things right and it reads 24-26 volts, which means I have a power supply problem.

    What do I do now? (Thanks for all the help by the way)
    I have a soldering iron and supplies. Is this just as simple as removing the power connector and restoring connectivity to 11A?
     
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    24-26v?! That's not good.

    You need to disconnect the power connector and figure out what's going on. Follow it back to the power supply
     
  11. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    I had my multimeter set to ACV following an online tutorial I found. Maybe I should try DCV? (did I do something wrong already...)

    I also wanted to note, the bed stopped heating right after I installed a new shroud for my extruder cooling fan. I thought it was just coincidence but it looks like I had wired the fan (previously) into the power connectors across from 11A for a steady power supply. Could this be my problem?
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's DC yes.

    Sounds like a coincidence but I would have no way of knowing. The circuits aren't connected unless you shorted a fan wire and it's connected into the 11A side of the connector.
     
  13. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    Well, you're not going to believe this.

    My bed works again.

    I just went back to measure it with in DCV mode, turned it on and D8 was lit up. The bed heated up and everything. But then as I went to screw the board back on the light went out.

    I'm thinking I have a loose connection with the power connector. Depending on how I push on the incoming wires D8 will light up or go off. I have tried unplugging them and reinserting them but when I go to put the board back D8 still shuts off.

    How can I trouble shoot this? Should I look into the connector? I know I am getting power to the connector and my fan wires, which are just wrapped around the power supply wires, are running my fan no problem. Can I open the connector up?
     
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The connector will pop off allowing you to more easily work on it. Sounds like it's just a loose connector.

    If you remove the wires from the connector then tin the ends with solder that should make for a more reliable connection. Soldering the fan wires to this wire doesn't hurt anything either.

    You might be screwing down the board too hard as well.
     
  15. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    I'm talking the light goes out as soon as the board is in position to be screwed in.

    I'll pull the connector then. The power wires already have solder on them but maybe I can just heat that solder back up and reposition it on the wires.

    Thanks again
     
  16. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Remove the ramps from the arduino and look for any loose pins underneath.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure that:
    1) the wires on the plugs that connect to the boards are not accidentally shorting between each other (Mikes idea about tinning them would make that not happen).
    2) the boards are connected together (Arduino and RAMPS) correctly.
     
  18. Red Submarine

    Red Submarine Active Member

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    IMG_2840.JPG So I pulled the connector and the positive power prong is fried. Or at least corroded, kinda hard to tell. Check out my pic.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Indeed it is. You can try to get and replace the connector or just get a new RAMPS. I'd start with a new RAMPS and then repair the other one for a spare.
     
  20. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    2 people like this.
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