Autoleveling configuration wizard not working

Send M119 gcode and see what the response is for the end stops.

Be positive they're making contact with the idler carriage.

 

Here's the screenshot of the response to the M119 gcode, the carriage is a good 50 mm above the bed, and I moved it manually to hear the switch clicking, so I'm fairly certain they are making contact.

 

If it says Z_min is triggered it thinks there's a closed circuit in the line. If you have a multimeter you could troubleshoot which switch it is.

Another option is to hold both switches down by hand when you send the M119 to make positive it's the switches

 

I lifted the carriage manually and sent the M119 command again and the z_min reported "open", however, it's my understanding that this switches work the other way around (I may be wrong here), i.e. when the switches are pressed the z_min should report "open" and when they get released they should trigger the z-min.
After all, the switches are part of the mechanism that raise the carriage.

 

Did you install Auto_Level_Series_6_10 or Auto_Level_6_10?

The switches are wired to the normally closed leg. When the switch is activated it goes to an open circuit.

Since the switch logic in inversed, a closed circuit is "Triggered" and an open circuit is "Open"

 

It's the Auto_Level_6_10. Should it be the Series?

 

Not unless you modified your wiring.

 

I have not modified the wiring.
I'll have the multimeter in a couple of hours, I'll check the switches and post back.

 

So, I bought the multimeter and took the measures, I labeled the switches and pins in the pictures below.
Anyway, here are the results:

For switch 1 (right when facing the printer) (This switch has the wires connected to B-C)
When the switch is NOT pressed:
A-B : 615 Ohm
B-C: 700 KOhm
A-C: 0.9 Ohm
When switch is pressed:
A-B: Inf (multimeter couldn't get a reading)
B-C: 0.6 Ohm
A-C: Inf (Same as A-B)

For switch 2 (left when facing the printer) (This switch has the wires connected to A-B)
When the switch is NOT pressed:
A-B: 614 Ohm
B-C: 700 KOhm
A-C: 0.7 Ohm
When switch is pressed:
A-B: 0.5 Ohm
B-C: Inf (couldn't get a reading)
A-C: Inf (same as B-C)

I also checked that the printer reports the z-min as triggered (when issuing the M119 command) when either switch is pressed and reports open only when both are not pressed.

 

Ok that sure as hell looks like series wiring to me. You say it came like this and you never touched the wiring?

Can you look underneeth and tell me if the plug that goes into Z- has 2 sets of wires plugged into it, or if they jumper together.

http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/robo3d-autolevel-via-mike-kelly.2574/

 

I've never touched the wiring, I'm not comfortable doing that, at least yet.

I took to pictures from the underside of the printer, it seems the cable that goes into the z-switch has 2 sets of wires.

 

I'm not really seeing what I'm looking for. The Z- plug itself, does it have 4 wires coming into it or 2?

On the switches themselves do they have a marking that says C, NO, NC, or do you see a diagram like what's on these? http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Lev...50402&sr=8-12&keywords=momentary+switch+micro

 

I'm not really sure what the Z-plug is, sorry about that. If you can give me some more clue about what to look for, I'll check again.

About the switches, the one on the right has markings that say NC, NO, C (from left to right, in that order), the wires are connected to NO and C.
The switch on the left however, has markings that read 1, 3, 2 (from left to right, in that order), the wires are connected to 1 and 3.

 

on the bottom right, that switch is the Z_min endstop, it plugs into Z- on the ramps board.

 

Here's a picture of the arduino board, I found a "Z" marking, I hope that's it.
It seems to have two sets of 4 wires each coming into it.

 

where it says Z-axis endstop in the picture above

 

Got it, there are two cables coming to the pins marked in your picture

 

I took the firmware for the auto level series and modified the Z_min_endstop_inverting to false in configuration.h and the printer is working now, it homes all axes correctly and compensates for the autoleveling.

Could it be problematic to leave this firmware in the printer with my current wiring?
Thanks!

 

No that should be fine. It seems like your switches are wired in series instead of parallel. Which is actually my suggested way of doing it.

I just can't understand how you got this wiring. You bought direct from Robo3d.com?

 

Yes, I bought it direcltly.

I was taking a more close look to your suggested wiring and noticed you wire both switches together. Would that wiring give better resuts that what I currently have or should I keep my printer the way it is?