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Bed cracked in half

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathan Simers, Mar 28, 2016.

  1. Nathan Simers

    Nathan Simers Member

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    My bed cracked completely but the heat pad held it together and i taped the top. I have about a 4 or 5 inch sweet spot i found that seems to be able to handle to keep going. I put in a warranty thing but dont think it will be covered but hoping they will give me a deal. My Alien is what did it. I use glue sticks on the glass and with having to use tape i might switch to that with the new bed. Its more work but things come off a bit easier. The pics are of the cracked bed the alien and my bearded man was done after the fact along with twist jar.
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They will offer a discount if you are under warranty.
    The glass bed is covered for shipping only.
     
  3. Nathan Simers

    Nathan Simers Member

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    thats what i was thinking but its better then nothing
     
  4. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    what material were you printing with?
     
  5. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    They covered mine 100% I wasn't even home when it broke.


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  6. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    How did it break? Just removing it from the bed?


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  7. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Nope. The print had bonded to the bed so that when it cooled it broke it my guess


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  8. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Is that with PLA?


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  9. jonnyb44

    jonnyb44 Member

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    Petg


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  10. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    Same problem happened to me with petg
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    When PETG sticks, it can stick remarkably well. Borosilicate glass has more of a tendency to break or at least chip when under pressure than say tempered glass. Most printers that use glass plates will use borosilicate glass because it can handle temperature extremes better than most. Tempered glass is also not very flat as the tempering process can cause waves in the glass surface. It does not have the same tendency to chip or crack. In the low temperature environment that we use our printers in tempered will work as a bed material, it is just tradition that keeps us using borosilicate glass.

    It is one of those things we just should expect and perhaps learn to deal with when it happens. Robo is not unique in having glass print beds break or chip. Want something tougher, do what @Nathanfish did and replace the bed with an aluminum one.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can also add an extra layer of glass to print on (the way the original beta had it).
    Unclip that and remove it from the bed to fight with freeing the print :)
     
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  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Does gluestick add another layer of protection? because I have printed a bunch of PETG on my bed with gluestick and its never chipped or cracked.
     
  14. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Adding the aluminum bed with a sheet of PEI has been the best upgrade I've done so far. I wipe it down with acetone and it's good to go. The aluminum also transfers heat the the edge of the plate better so I don't get lifting at the edges of large prints anymore. Definitely recommended! I think my 1/4" plate, sheet of PEI, and 3m high temp double sided tape was under $50.

    Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
     
  15. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Also, the PEI is extremely durable. I auto level with the nozzle at 242 and it's nice to know that even if it something happens and the nozzle rests against the bed nothing will melt or get damaged. PEI is legit!

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  16. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    nope that is how i chipped mine....PETG in general is bad on glass
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    What I found out about PETG, at least in my personal experience, is that if you pop the part off the bed while still warm can eliminate the chances of chipping. I print with a bed temperature of about 80°C, when a print finishes I pop the part off as close to about 65-70°C as possible. Usually just a few taps with the back end of the putty knife and it pops right off. As a bonus, those minute warps you get in the sharp corners of your part as a result of fully cooling, seem to disappear.
     
  18. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I know that in the case of T-glase, Taulman recommends your ending Gcode keeps the glass bed at 35C to prevent breaking the glass (and you manually tell the printer to cool down after removing the print).

    Probably need to do something similar to the other flavors of PETG.
     
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  19. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    The two things ive done, is 1 print on blue painters tape, and 2 warm up the bed before removal.
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm impatient so I probably have removed the parts before they cooled.
    I mostly print PETG on my zebra skin/plate though.
     

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