Bed upgrade for $30 + your filament

Shopping list:
4 Linear Bearing Bushing LM8UU 8MM ($8 with shipping)
1 8mm 1 meter long Precision Chromed Rod ($22 with shipping)
2 zip ties to secure belt ends.
4 screws to clamp each bearing housing, so 8 screws total with no longer then 25mm long (measuring threaded part only) Holes are 3mm across for the bottom clamp and 4mm across for the top clamp. Wood/metal screws work perfectly.

Tools required:
Working 3d printer
Hacksaw to cut smooth rod by 400mm each and cut wood screws to 15mm long size.
Buying 1 meter of smooth rod is easier and cheaper. Otherwise order 2 400mm long rods if you have no tools to cut them.
So:
Models as well as all the instructions can be downloaded from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602
You will need different washer, one they have does not fit properly. (see attached file)
My version also uses upper bearing housing to avoid the use of zip ties and making it more PRO like
PLA is best. It wont warp at the bottom with heat bed at 80-90. For large objects use 80-90 heat and tape on the bed and smear hair gel or spray on top of the tape to help the model to stick. Heat will prevent it from warping and detaching on far edges where heat is not reaching.

Print 2 Bed_mount.stl (Rotate the model by 45-60 degrees to fit on the bed.)
Print 1 Belt_tensioner.stl and 1 Cable_Clip.stl SOLID infill.
Print 2 LowerBearingHousing.STL (my version attached below)
Print 2 UpperBearingHousing.STL (my version attached below)
Print 4 Washer.STL (my version attached below)

Remove your bed and rails.
Attach LowerBearingHousing to exact same place where old rails were attached to using same screws that held the rails.
Attach UpperBearingHousing on top of the lower once and secure with screws.
Reuse old belt. Attach one end to bed mount, wrap it around and secure with a zip tie.
Do not secure another end of the belt to tensioner until platform is set.
When bed is set, run the belt around bearings and pulleys and then attach it to the tensioner, securing it with zip tie. If your bed is flat, no need to apply excessive tension.

Drill a large hole in the black plate to run bed wires thru. Drill closer toward the right.

Everything else is self explanatory.


I will post updates on my thingyverse account, so keep your eyes on there.

 

definatly saving this thread for later. i already have the rails installed from robo, but its not very well designed im sure ill have to use this at some point.

 

Newer version on thingiverse.
I continue to improve.
Not sure what you mean by "not very well designed" when i print all day long with no problems.
I am updating the belt attachment system to make it removable/upgradable and strong. Already testing.
These are 2 bed mounts

This is the test print for removable belt holders. It gets inserted into the bed mount.

 

When I created the bed mount, I wanted to reuse the stock bed without modifications to it. I am sure that it could be more compact, but it works quite well (Never change a ....)

 

I just print it yesterday, it really improve a lot. I only need do sand bed mounts a little bit on the left side, otherwise they hit the cover. Great job and cheap enough

 

The latest version on Thingiverse are slightly smaller to not colide with the housing anymore. Print area has also increased to 280mm.

For those Who want to do the upgrade, make sure to download the latest files directly from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602

 

Yeah i keep developing as i print. I will try to upload my latest attempt tonight. Had some modifications to increase Y size. Already get 265mm on Y
Bed width will also include fixed in tonight upload

 

OK Final version is uploaded, all tested etc.
270mm on Y axis BOO YAA !!! (but you gotta move the end switch back a little, 5-7mm toward the motor)



One thing to keep in mind, print with PLA very slow with maximum cooling to minimize warping. Printing at fast speed wont ruin the print, it will warp it and you'll have to warm it up with hair dryer and press against flat surface. (or what ever technique you use)

 

On the Robo3D shop they list the Y axis upgrade kit as unavailable, but the borosilicate replacement glass as available.

www.robo3dprinter.com/collections/replacement-parts-upgrades

Could someone here clarify if possible for me whether I actually need the replacement center base portion, that is included in the kit, , is necessary if I am able to print off useable pieces for the glass and rail mounting via this thread and thingiverse? I currently have the original Kickstarter PLA version with the Acrylic bed and would like to upgrade

If the Center replacement section is being replaced during the upgrade only due to wiring, or needing an extra or larger hole for wiring I can manage those modifications. I am pretty handy with power tools and a soldering iron, so no problem there. Thanks in advance for any help in clarifying this.

 

Why would you not sell parts separate from the glass ?
I bet its not hard to rewire bed VS paying $90 for second glass.
It would only be $20 i would buy it.

So with that kind of sales practice, i modified my final version of printable upgrade and it gives you a WHOPPING 270mm on Y axis
Can you $110 upgrade do that ?
I dont think so.


Download latest version at
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439036
Its tested and works great.

Print with PLA on blue tape on cold bed with cooling fans on. It will prevent any curling or warping as it cools. Printing it slow will make it perfect.
0.3mm layer height is working fine, no need for high quality print.

 

I agree, however my issue is that I don't have a glass bed. If the bed is available but not the kit I will print the parts and use the new glass bed. I have just received the e3dV6 hotend and some nylon and ABS I would like to start working with, thus the question about just buying the replacement glass and doing it myself.

Thanks guys.

 

@tonystech; just a note, Tony, to thank you for your efforts. I just finished printing the bed mounts and they are beautiful. Nice design. I feel confident the rest of your designs are equally good. I am waiting for rods and bearings. I canceled my MIA ROBO XY upgrade but still have a broken bed I'm using at the moment. Fortunately, I was a GeckoTek KS backer and they are going to be sending my printing plate along with a complete aluminum bed, heater and thermistor sometime in November. I have been in touch with one of their founders and he is a very nice and responsive fellow. I look forward to putting all of this together, so, hey. Thanks!

 

OK. Installation complete (though still with my cracked bed) and it went far better, and easier than anticipated. Using the existing mounting holes and hardware saved a bunch of time and effort over the ROBO upgrade method. Also, using the stock black bed mount saved a bunch of disassembly and re-assembly. Kudos, tonystech. Results: significantly improved prints right from the start. Ribbing diminished as well. Though visible in the pic attached, this is a very macro shot - to the eye, it is virtually invisible. The pic shows tall round columns in .2 resolution which was my worst ribbing scenario before. I'm a happy customer. Thanks again, tonystech!

 

How long did it take them to respond to you cancellation request? I have had no luck asking for an update and am thinking of canceling it. I really only need a new bed that is not so concave. Let us know how the GekoTek works out. I guess I will start printing Tony's design.

 

All in all... about three weeks. There was some confusion along the way but it has all been cleared up and a refund issued.Tony's design works well.

 

My original bed slides were horrible. This is an awesome upgrade although I found it much easier to find the position that your belt would be tight at. Then drill completely through the end plates. Slide them on farther than they need to be so you can slip the belt retainer into place and then force the end plates apart to the correct position where the bed will slip in. Now my bed is rock solid and smooth and level to within a few thousandths were before it was completely bowed and made getting quality large prints almost impossible. Now that this is finished I'm going to go back and reprint it to get the best results. Thanks Tony!

 

Many days of printing i see that my re-design works great.
Keep in mind that due to this forum limitation, i cannot edit my posts (this limitation should not exist in this universe) so to get the latest (final at this point) version of this print is on my thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:439036


Ribbing that were related to Y axis went away 100%. The only ribbing i still see match the Z thread pattern, indicating the need to upgrade to metric rods. I tried every possible solution that was posted here including firmware tweak, stabilizers and ball-bearing at the base of the rod but nothing helped. 1 thing i didnt try was to replace them with metric rods which i hope to get my hands on some day before i die.

 

Good and help full information.