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Solved Brand new to 3D printing - RoBo 3D R1+ - Multiple issues

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Perry, Dec 9, 2016.

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  1. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Hi, I am completely new to 3D printing, so please bear with me. I have tried to read up on these issues, but haven't had much luck finding solutions yet.

    A little background: I received this 3D printer from a friend who just claimed "he could not get it to work" and he didn't have the time to figure it out. So, it's been used before, it's not like I just took it out of the box. I have scheduled a Skype meeting with Robo3D for next week, but I'd love to try to troubleshoot this on my own so that I can learn more about the equipment and software. I'm printing with PLA, made sure I'm using the V2 firmware, and am using MatterControl 1.6.

    First issue: I first tried printing the simple configuration circle from the MatterControl software. The printer appears to be printing something other than the circle it was programed to print. This seems odd, but maybe it is stuck trying to print something that my friend tried printing previously? The only strange thing is that the printer does seem to follow the commands from the software, ie. sits idle until I tell it to start printing, it warms up properly, etc. There is no SD card inserted either, so I'm at a loss here.

    Second issue: When the plate is moving back and forth, it often appears like it's shaking and makes loud noises. This could be from trying to print something other than the circle, but I'm not sure. The plate does move smoothly when I push it back and forth. I took a quick video, but I can't link to it since I'm a new member.

    I'd appreciate any insight you may have.
    Thank you.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It may be doing the autoleveling dance before starting to print. That is expected.
    The shaking and loud noises are something awry mechanically. You need to look under the bed plate and make sure nothing is in the way and visually watch the wiring above the build plate to make sure nothing is getting in the way. It is not uncommon for the main wire bundle under the bed plate to obstruct the travel. It needs to be repositioned out of the way
     
  3. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply @mark tomlinson. I'll definitely check again under the plate, but there did not appear to be anything getting in the way of the bands underneath. I'm almost wondering if the shaking is just an issue with the printer thinking it's supposed to print something else. It really appears like it's not even trying to print the circle at all. Any way to like, reset the printer?

    I'm also noticing that whatever material the printer is putting down isn't sticking to the plate. I noticed that some people recommend spraying hairspray on there, so I may try that too.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The printer will print exactly what the slicer sends it without exception :)
    The only possible difference is that when configured correctly the printer will do an autoleveling sequence (touch the build plate in 9 places) before the print starts. That is not directly related to the print and will be the same regardless of model.

    You might want to review @Marquis Johnson videos to see how things work:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/helpful-videos-novice-expert.7478/
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Something to aid adhesion is usually good, but the initial Z offset may be incorrect as well. See if the videos don't help cover this.
    If your Z offset is too high then the filament will not be pressed down on the bed and will not stick.
     
  6. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Thanks, yes I've seen that it'll touch points on the plate, but it actually started printing straight-ish lines (not exactly straight because of the shaking) forming some sort of stick-type shape. It does not appear to be the autoleveling sequence, though. It looks like printing something completely different than what the software is telling it to. Unfortunately I did not take a picture last night.

    Nevertheless, I'll check out the videos you recommended!
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Remember that the model will be sliced into layers consisting of perimeters (outer sides/edges) and infill (the innards) and how these are printed (i.e. the order) is slicer dependent.
     
  8. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    I think I understand, but I watched a Youtube video of a guy printing the circle using the same software and it didn't make any straight lines, it simply went straight to building the circle one layer at a time. That's why I'm thinking there's something strange going on.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Try printing a one-layer print (STL attached)

    Adjust the size to fit the entire bed if you want.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Thank you, I'll give it a try tonight.
     
  11. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printer tweaking and repair... Uhm I mean Welcome to 3D printing!!!!

    The printer is very dumb. There really isn't a traditional "reset" for it. It has a simple electronics board with an add on controller board (Arduino with a Ramps board). They are very basic electronics and fairly inexpensive to replace as needed.

    Please turn on your printer and confirm that the fan INSIDE THE BASE is running. It is what cools these boards. I've read over and over people getting strange behaviors and then discovered the fan was not plugged in and running.

    Something to try while you await your skype meeting.
     
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  12. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Thank you, I'll give it a look. I'm fairly certain it was running, because I noticed the fan making noise.
     
  13. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Just something to check. Good luck.
     
  14. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    @mark tomlinson @Rigmarol I think I might have actually gotten it to work! See in-progress pic, attached.

    The Z-axis offset was set to 0, so i changed it to 1.5mm and it looks like it's working!
    I'll update once it's finished.
     

    Attached Files:

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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  16. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    @mark tomlinson
    OK, so after speaking with a very patient Robo3D tech last night, I may be ordering a new stepper motor and wiring harness for the Y axis due to the shaking I mentioned earlier. Strangely however, the shaking does not happen all the time and I was able to test print a cube.

    I was also able to print a little mickey mouse keychain for my daughter last night and the finished product was 90% there, just the bottom layers aren't solid. See the attached photos of the finished product. I attached a top photo, bottom photo, and side photo that shows the difference between the top and bottom layers.

    I used glue stick on the glass plate to make the bottom layers stick and that did its job, this was my first print not to shift during printing. I also brought the Z-axis offset down to 0.8mm last night, do you think I need to adjust it down even further to solve this problem?
     

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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bring it down until your first layer looks like this:

    https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt

    For the other issue tweak your slicer settings to add more top and bottom layers. IIRC the default is "3" and with a 0.2mm layer height (the default for most slicers) that is a whopping 0.6mm (which is not a lot). Double it to get at least a 1mm thick top and bottom To get the sides to 1mm increase the wall thickness.
     
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  18. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Thanks, I'll keep reducing the Z axis until I get a good skirt like that one. Appreciate the tips!
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck.

    I wish that the slicers had more reasonable defaults, but .. alas.
     
  20. Perry

    Perry New Member

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    Quick question, what (free) software do you recommend? I've been looking at Cura and it seems like it may be a little more user-friendly than MatterControl. Do you have a strong opinion one way or another?
     
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