C2 Power capacity

No, I'd be more concerned with a heatbed, you'll likely be fine for the little your adding but if you are concerned you can get a larger brick cheap enough

 

There is no reason it shouldn't. There simply aren't any parts in the parts configuration (the C2 electronics is Identical to the R2 with exception of screen size), that is rated at 19 volts, you either have 24V or 12V and some parts are interchangeable. My original deduction was that using a 19V power brick was simply a cost savings mechanism for Robo.

 

Why would he say that, other than PID settings there is nothing in the configuration that even knows what the supply voltage is. Also there are no 19v cartridge heaters so the only way you would need to change the hotends would be if they put in under spec 12v heaters. No where in the C2 nor on the electronics board is there a buck converter that is lowering the voltages to 12v. It is the same electronics between the C2 and the R2.

I understand his concern about the firmware. Their current GITHUB Marlin does not work because they messed with it too much, you actually have to undo a lot of their changes to get your printer to work if you simply download and compile their code. But that is their fault and has no bearing on 19V v. 24V.

 

Even their broken source code shows almost no changes in Configuration between the two printers. The pins labeling is identical, the settings other than PID and heated bed enable are identical!

 

Jerry also claimed the heater was 19v, but for the life of me I could find nothing from no one that was 19v heaters... so I used a 24v, which has a minor but noticeable difference in heat times (it is slightly slower).
I tend to believe that other than the brick itself there is nothing really different with them, BUT ... I am prepared to be wrong

 

I won't hold my breath, what they have done so far has been less than stellar

But I can tell you with 100% certainty, that if what you posted is an accurate retelling of what he told you, he has no clue how Marlin works.

 

Yea, there is no difference around that in the firmware at all. I modded nothing related to that when I did mine. All the changes I did were around enabling the second extruder. That alone was enough of a pain.

 

Economies of scale, dude.

You don't reinvent when you are a market follower not a market leader. And especially when your a small fish in a big pond.

 

I've got some 19v heaters that I can send ya

Pull your heater and look for writing @OutsourcedGuru id bet it shows 24v. If unlabeled it's still 24v

(Late to the party)

I've also got some 24v steppers I'll sell ya but their crazy pricey

 

Pull the heater core out of the heatblock. Should be identified on the cartridge. If they've invented a whole new voltage system I'd spill my beer.

19v power brick for the same reason you can power 12v LEDs with a 9v... Cheaper

 

I'll send you some new labels that I printed on my laser printer that say 24V. That should fix your post.

 

Your money and time do as you wish.

@mark tomlinson is running dual with a 24v so for the informative standpoint it's a 24v heater core and any hexagon hotend (Epcos thermistor to avoid firmware change). You do not need or have to buy from robo direct nor source from their supply chain.