Solved Can't Feed Filament

Those spring loaded screws are fine to unload and remove if you want to feed the filament in.
I do this every time.
Can you feed it in without doing that? Sure, but I would rather spend the extra 60 seconds to make sure.

 

You can disassemble the hotend itself.

https://tamarintech.com/article/hexagon_std_assembly
or

 

Here is my theory on why PLA jams for so many people. They simply print too hot. PLA expands a lot when heated, if you run your hot zone (the part of the extruder that actually holds the nozzle and the heater core) too hot, the heat from molten PLA can actually melt more PLA than necessary and creep into the cold zone (the part of your extruder where the radiator fins are) cooling down and creating a 'plug', for lack of a better term, and slowing or completely stopping the flow of filament. This is especially bad with the Hexagon as they use the smallest bore size of any heatbreak in the business. It is already a snug fit for some filaments and the heating will make it snugger.

If one of the other more experienced people disagree with this theory, please present alternatives.

 

Interesting theory. We print PLA at less than 190 on every printer. I have never seen the need to get much above that with PLA (175-ish on the volcano hotend). I know I have seen other people who say they print it at ABS level extrusion temps... For most types of filament I am of the opinion to print it as cool as possible. There are some exceptions to this (nylon -- I am looking at you). As we get more complex materials available there is no hard-and-fast rule across everything.

 

Nylon strings less if you run very hot contrary to nearly every other filament out there, and interlayer adhesion is very poor at as cold as possible extrusion temperatures. That is why my post specified PLA and no other filament. I have also found that PETG runs more consistent in diameter than the cheap PLA and it almost always is 1.75 or less, not 1.75 or more, so it has less issues in the Hexagon. I don't print enough ABS to form an opinion other than it is near imposible to prevent warping with a bed that is cold on the outer edges of the build area like the Robo.

 

Yea, the best you can do with ABS on the Robo is minimize issues. You can't totally avoid them on a print of any size.

 

Yeah @Jarrod1937 Print out a small hollow topless cube at various temperatures, some will come out better than others, I usually print them in 5° increments from the lowest specified temperature to the highest, usually listed on the spool. This way I can see a range of things from bad interlayer bonding to stringy prints. With PLA use the lowest temperature where everything sticks and looks good.