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cant get a good print (accept a ball of abs)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sagi, Jan 22, 2014.

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  1. sagi

    sagi New Member

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    hi ,
    i just got my printer and set it up using this 2 guides :




    after i have done this 2 guides step by step to the letter ... i tried to print the 5 mm qube .
    result:
    [​IMG]

    it seem to not stick to the surface at all and the extruder moved with a ball of ABS.
     
  2. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    ABS is not the easiest material to start using - it's a lot more fiddly. It's usually better to start with PLA to get the hang of things and then move on to ABS once you're comfortable with PLA. Not sure the procedure of clearing ABS to start PLA so someone else will have to help with that.

    Once you get to that point though... Blue tape or hairspray on the bed, make sure the z height is right and that the bed is level, and things should stick pretty well.
     
  3. sagi

    sagi New Member

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    know that i am thinking about it i am not sure this is ABS.
    i tried it with the free filamnet that i got with my printer .
    do they give PLA or ABS ?
    i bought 2 kg of ABS but for that print i use the free sample i got .
    and i used ABS settings .
     
  4. Billm

    Billm Member

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    I received blue pla and I am 99% sure you have pla. Follow the advice above and only work with pla till you get the hang of it. Definitely get hairspray. I started with the blue tape but ended up getting the best results with hairspray. However get the right hairspray. I used my wife's first and it didn't work. Check out the forums. I think I got aqua net. Can't emphasize enough of getting the bed level. I went to harbor freight and got feeler gauges. I homed the head (x=0 y=0) and measured the gap from the nozzle to the glass. Than I ran the head to x= 220 the far right and measured the gap. The goal is to get them equal by adjusting the left screw (the vertical threaded rod). Once you have the same gap left and right move the y axis to the back of the glass to check the front to back level. Whin I started the gap at the back was .010" on the left corner and .012" on the right corner more than the front. I loosened the glass hold down screws and the glass came up and closed the gap. I moved the head to the four corners and measured the distance between the nozzle and the glass. Then I got to tighten or loosen the four corners till I got then as close as I could. Then you have to adjust the z height limit switch. That is a 4mm X 50mm screw on the right side of the head carriage. Screwing down on the screw raises the gap of the nozzle. Backing off the screw lowers the gap. I set my gap to .002".what you have to remember is that this is an electrical switch so that each time you make an adjustment first raise the z axis up 1 mm first. Then make the adjustment of the z axis screw then hit the home button. This moves all axis to 0 0 0. The keep adjusting the z axis till you get it right. Also remember that when you adjust the large left screw for nozzle height it also moves the right screw. They are electrically coupled so make sure you hold the other from moving when you adjust the left screw. Believe me it took me a month to figure it out although it is spelled out many times in these forums.
     
  5. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    Nice tips Billm. The one about holding the opposite threaded rod is something I wish I had learned a long time ago.
    You might consider printing out Tesseracs bed levelers. They do basically what you are doing by loosening the bed screws. I'd be concerned that when you loosen the screws, there is no back pressure that would hold the screws from getting loose as time went by. With the bed levelers, there are springs that place pressure on the bed to keep them tight. Plus, you can easily adjust up or down as needed.
     
  6. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    If you purchased an ABS machine, you should have received 2 samples, one of each. They are clearily marked.
     
  7. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    Hrm. Interesting. I know I didn't. I only got PLA filament though this is an ABS model
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That was only true for the first batch that went out from china. They stopped doing that from what I can tell.
     
  9. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    1.Level bed
    2.get nozzle thickness of paper off the glass, or less.
    3. in rep host, change your speeds to all "30".
    4. set first layer height to .3, medium layer height (.2)
    5. set temp to 210
    6.set "loops" in skirt tab to 2 or 3. (this will tell you if you are going to have good print most of the time)

    Do those steps and you should be close enough that you can tweak from there. Im sure you can run it faster, etc...but I am having a lot of success versus a lot of people running faster....so is it really faster for them? LOL
     
  10. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    Do you mean the first batch fom China had both samples? If so, I got mine directly from the San Diego office. I didn't get the right size screw for the filament holder-maybe the extra sample was my consolation. Really though, it would seem to make sense you would get both samples if you had a machine that did both.
     
  11. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    Don't you get alot of stringing at 210?
     
  12. sagi

    sagi New Member

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  13. sagi

    sagi New Member

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    i try to print with the ROBO3D manual settings temp on 190 and bed temp on 0 .
    i spray hair spray and it stick at fitst and lossen after a few layers .
    result :
    [​IMG]

    again this is the 5 mm qube X2= 1cm qube .

    fyi
    my bed is not fully leveled it has paper gap in one end and almost 0 gap at the other end of the bed .
    it took my hours to try to level it, maby i need to sand one side of the screw spacer .
     
  14. Billm

    Billm Member

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    It may be the hair spray. The first I used didn't work. It needs certain chemicals. Look up the forums and there is a section on what to look for in hairspray.
     
  15. Billm

    Billm Member

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    Look under hairspray survey
     
  16. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    No, prints pretty cleanly.

    Leave the two bed levelers as is on the front(or rear) and then remove nut under spacer and replace with washer and oring. Flip screw so the external tightening nut is on top of bed. Now oring acts as spring and you can tighten nut to lower bed....loosen to raise.

    Next. Check bed flatness with straight edge. Mine was bowl shaped...tighten belt under bed and it will help tremendously.
     
  17. sagi

    sagi New Member

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    the washer and oring you print or buy?
    becouse i cant get prints right now and if you buy do you have a link for it on ebay?
     
  18. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    You buy them. You should have no trouble getting them locally. The washer has 3mm hole and 1mm thick (very common size) and the washer needs 3mm hole. You just need a 3mm screw to go in them. Auto parts stores have them...even if you have to get them for a/c system. Lowes, home depot and if you have a harbor freight u are golden.
     

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  19. sagi

    sagi New Member

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    i will try to do this but do you think this is my only problem ?
    i cant get good print at all.
    i tried to spray the hairspray i have seconds before the print started and it work i finished the qube ,
    and when i tried to print it x1 = 5mm qube nothing sticked to the bed.
     
  20. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Part of it. What's your first layer height?
     
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