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Answered Center to Center distance for the Y rods on R1 +Plus

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by WZ9V, May 20, 2016.

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  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @WZ9V, I am on a one person crusade to add at least one solid model format to every model I make and put up on Thingiverse. I do not consider STL files a viable means to allow for modifications to the original model. But if the intent is to make it hard to copy or modify someone's work, only including an STL will do just that.
     
    #21 WheresWaldo, May 22, 2016
    WZ9V, Geof and mark tomlinson like this.
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Boom! Nailed it.

    In some cases I write it off to 'didn't know'or 'didn't think it through' other times it is deliberate.
    There is a business model to selling these things, but like selling peanuts beside the road it is a rather small one. Shapeways and the like are the approach to that. If you are 'open sourcing' it via thingiverse an actual 3D format is a huge plus.

    I mentally treat thingiverse like SourceForge.
     
    #22 mark tomlinson, May 22, 2016
    WheresWaldo and Geof like this.
  3. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Yes, if I put it on thingiverse it is to share. If I wanted to sell something I would not put it there.

    I'm also well aware of the amount of time it takes to make a nice fully functional part. I'm still tweaking my bed holders to get them right. I'm actually think my machine may be out a small percentage on X/Y dimensions which could be why the 255mm center to center seems to bind a bit at the switch. On smaller distances the accumulated error would be less which is why my smaller stuff seems to work fine. I'm really only seeing it on longer distances. Guess it's time to get more serious about calibration. I'm using whatever @WheresWaldo had in his RC6 configuration except for a few tweaks I needed for the LCD.
     
    #23 WZ9V, May 22, 2016
    Last edited: May 22, 2016
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