Cheap PLA?

Good day all, I have a question specific to JustPLA / Inland and the robo, If anyone has used them. Last week I bought 3 rolls of PLA, JustPLA Green / Yellow and Inland Orange. I am having one heck of a time getting any of them to stick for a first layer.

I do want to add that I normally print Matter hackers Black at 197C and the bed at 50C with a thin coating of hairspray and it works flawlessly.

I have a robo 3d R1, I am running a Prometheus V2 hotend. I ran the JustPLA yellow at 200C and the bed at 50C and I could not get it to stick with anything but a Glue stick. Problem is it stuck too good and at the end of a 15hr print I destroyed the bottom trying to get it loose. Next I ran the JustPLA Green. I actually had to break down and use the blue painters tape. This sticks now but I really want to get it on just the glass bed. I had to run this at 60C for the first 5 layers and 210C on the hotend. Problem with the green is the first two skirts are very sporadic then it flattens out fine. I also want to say that my first layers when laid down are like a single piece of cellophane. However I still can not get anything to stick to the blue tape unless I add a small coating of hair spray.

Third is the Inland Orange, the sticker says 220-260 print temp. I have run this up to 250 but the sweet spot seems to be 232C and the bed with tape at 50C. I can not get this to stick for anything. Same thing happens, first couple of skirts spit out blobs then flatten out. But it is very stringy across the moves, If I reduce the extruder temp to try and compensate for the strings it stops extruding. This would be acceptable if I did not have to remove any strings before the actual layer is laid down.

Also want to mention that any reduction in temp on any of these and they stop extruding however they all slowly come out of the hotend while it is preparing to print. I have to keep pulling off the pieces before it prints. I know this points to temp but I can not reduce it and have it extrude.

Now I have printed ABS and other PLA with this same setup and have never had issues with stringing or first layers not sticking. Any Ideas?

-Steve

 

WYZ is a favorite on one of the other 3d printing forums I read.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Filament&rt=nc&LH_FS=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

 

WYZ?

How did they print?

 

Thanks Guys, Appreciate the knowledge and comments. I have the green printing right now and I noticed almost a rough ridge feel to the filament, Possibly from the extrusion. I can get these to print on Blue painters tape or a Elmer's glue stick (not the orange). Ihave learned every time I change filaments to recalibrate everything. I am basically saving each profile in S3D for each brand and color so I have some where to start on the next one. Also on the Yellow, it printed the easiest but I has to layer separations in one large block I was printing. Ruined the entire 13hr print.

I was mistaken, the best PLA I haves used so far was not matter hackers but it was from

http://www.usafilament.com/

I had the black and white and both printed great, the black was better, in the stock hex, but they both were good in the E3D and the Prometheus. I am going to order another black thru them tonight. Nice to be able to hit print and walk away.

Might try the foxsmart or wxy as well. Thanks again for the info

 

I've used 6 or so rolls of Inland PLA & ABS (white). I love it... never had a problem. On quality alone it's one of the better filaments I've used (but not the best). When combined with dirt-cheap pricing though, it comes out ahead every time.

I've bought white (ABS+PLA) plus glow-in-the-dark (PLA), but I haven't actually used the glow-in-the-dark yet.

 

Wanted to chime in and say that I love Inland Orange (PLA); however, my sticker says 190-220.

Are you sure you didn't grab ABS instead?

FWIW, I run the Inland PLA Orange (and other colors) ::

Extruder Temp :: 205 C
Bed Temp :: 65 C (using Aqua Net)
Disable Fan for the First "1" Layer
Layer Height :: 0.3mm
First Layer Height :: 0.4mm

My prints, even large flat ones, pop off when the bed cools down completely.

 

@WheresWaldo I was at 50C to start with and didn't have an issue; then, after a week went by, I had to raise it up to get anything to stick. Still playing with it, but see no adverse effects due to the higher temp.

 

Checked the label and it does indeed say pla, but when I treat it like abs it will lay down and extrude. But has layer separation issues. Seems me going back to the roll holder that came with the robo contributed. I have since changed back to the top mount holder I made.



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Try Hatchbox! Their cheap, but yet still have quality. I got some spools of them and it is nice.
Price-$20
smell-NONE!
Quality-9/10
Warping- No warping
That's all I really care about most of the time!

 

Filament quality in my opinion have been wide and varied from company to company, reseller to reseller, and user to user. You have to consider a variety of variables:

1) Filaments that are not shipped in a shrink-wrapped or sealed container are most often going to be trouble.
2) Filaments that do not have the silicone stay-dry pack in them when shipped are most often going to be trouble
3) Filaments that come from overstock places such as Monoprice tend to be poorer quality and often easily saturated with moisture -- you're better off investing from $1 to $5 more for a filament to get more consistent results and protect your equipment.
4) Environmental factors where the machine is used, the filament stored, the method it is stored, and the climate of the user's location also have a potential to influence the outcome of successful prints.
5) Hatchbox, eSun are two very popular filaments and tend to be $20-24 for a 2.2kg spool, well worth the price and quality.
6) Consider following the advice of some filament manufacturers and create a method to dry your filaments -- such as the one suggested by Taulman - http://taulman3d.com/specifications.html
7) I have historically used 200c hot-end and 50c for bed temperatures for PLA. Taulman 910 245c/60c bed. Taulman 618 Bridge - 225c/70c bed, PETG - 250c/80c bed, Semiflex Ninjaflex 220c/40c bed. However, depending on the humidity and ambient temperature of my work area, I sometimes drop 5 degrees on the extrusion temperatures, but rare. You have to find what works best for the specific filament, and keep a chart.

Bed adherence is everything for a good print -- no one likes warping. PEI, Zebra Plate, good old PVA (hairspray, glue, etc.) are also valuable, but having used the first two, I find myself preferring to go straight glass for most items with exception of the flex materials. It takes practice to know the right amount and balance of materials to produce good prints repeatably.

 

Well I got two replacement rolls from the vendor. Orange and blue, both work great. Part of my problem was the original robo spool holder, it was causing the filament to drag and cut a groove in the top of the enclosure. But my original spools were bad. I got excellent customer service and will buy from them again.


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