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Clear ABS

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Heisenberg, Sep 23, 2014.

  1. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    When I print in clear ABS, it always jams either at the extruder or after the feeder cog. I have tried raising the temperatures up to around 260C and still have not had success. If feeds nicely when I do it by hand, but will jam within the first layer when being fed by the printer. Should I try a higher temp? (it is upgraded to handle it). Or are there other settings I can modify?
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You could try adding an in line oiler to keep the nozzle from scalding the filament causing jams
     
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  3. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    You might also check to see if the hobbed bolt is shredding the filament. A lot of people have had trouble with the factory hobbed bolt and have replaced it with an aftemarket one with better results. Lots of threads in the forum on this problem, too.
     
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  4. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    Is there a specific type of oiler that you would suggest? I looked up a few, but wanted to make sure that it would work...Also, my main purpose is to print as transparent as possible pieces to shine light through...is there another material that would be as good as ABS or better that would yield the same results?

    The hobbed bolt is shredding the filament, was hoping to hold off replacing it...it extrudes and prints perfectly for about 5 minutes and then jams all the way down at the extruder itself most of the time...almost like the filament is swelling and then when it gets retracted due to print head movements; it plugs the extrusion effort and then shreds and coils the filament after the hobbed bolt. I did check some of the forums, but I have absolutely no problems with any other ABS materials, just this clear and I have tried two different types/suppliers.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    PET has the highest transparency but you need to print it super slow and thick to get it to be very transparent.

    Any oiler will work, some people use just a pen cap or a pen tube. Anything you can use a packing material soaked in oil.
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The ColorFabb XT is really, really clear (on preview--it has the same limitations @Mike Kelly mentions as well). As for oilers, pretty much anything to hold a sponge that has been lightly coated with oil so that the filament can come out with a light sheen of oil on it is good enough. There are a lot of examples on Thingiverse and I think someone here on the forum made one up specific for the robo.
     
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  7. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    Thanks for the info...I will try the oiler out and look into the filaments...The material will be exposed to heavy sunlight and be used in the summer when it is warm so I need it to be long-lasting and durable. I have no problem conceding some clarity for durability or speed of printing. If that helps you narrow it down to a certain type then great, otherwise ill be looking up everything, lol!
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah Colorfabb XT clear or PET will be your best option. Not totally sure on their UV properties or glass transition point but I think it's decent.
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    @Printed Solid could tell you (or likely you can get the spec sheets via links he has).
     
  10. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    Great, thanks for the help both of you. Hopefully I can find something that will work!
     
  11. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Hey @Heisenberg . I'm guessing that you might be too close on the first layer with the ABS. If you're trying to extrude more than you can push out, you're going to form a plug going up the heat break from the nozzle. This isn't really an issue with parts with small parts, but becomes a bigger issue as you get a bigger base and more material can build up in that plug.

    IMO, You shouldn't need an oiler. The oiler is really a PLA thing.

    Clear ABS is not actually technically ABS, so it does have different properties even beyond the differences you're going to see with different colors of ABS. I don't know if hotter or colder is better though.

    For clear, PET is the way to go, at least until Taulman releases some of their new materials (Tritan might be more clear than PET). I'm actually not sure what the best PET option is for clarity right now. A year ago, it was absolutely hands down colorFabb XT, but they changed the formula in the beginning of the year. It is now higher temperature and stronger, but not quite as clear. I haven't experimented much with the new blend, but the old one could be vapor polished for near perfect clarity on single shell models. It's possible that t-glase might now have better clarity. A customer just purchased some of both to experiment on for an art project. I'll check in with him and report back.
     
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  12. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    I was trying to figure out how to send a message to your inbox...glad you seen the post.

    I did have my first layer close, but if the gap was much more; it blotted out. It almost seems like the end is swelling on me...there are not many kinks in the filament, just the end catches and breaks off leaving it unable to extrude. I will order some PET material immediately. I will do some more research, but what are the best settings for printing that material? I appreciate your help!
     
  13. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I've seen people use that term, but the plastic doesn't swell. It just gets fed faster than it can extrude out the tube, which makes a blockage that definitely looks like swelling.

    PET varies by company significantly. T-Glase prints well at about 220-240. XT prints at more like 230-260. I've printed it at around 250 on the Robo with the hexagon, but not sure if that was the optimal temp. Taulman did a really thorough writeup on tips to get your print clear: http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html
     
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  14. Heisenberg

    Heisenberg Member

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    Thanks for the help, I got the filament extruding perfectly now and I received my PET+ today, just having an issue with the software not engaging the z-axis stepper motors during the print now. Everything works with the manual controls, just nothing when it needs to raise to retract or proceed to the next layer. I am using Simplify3D and everything works great with Matter Control except it loves to lose connection. Currently I have three companies working on the issue, but no results yet...thought you may have some insight; I am going to see if the forums have anything pertaining to this software.
     

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