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PLA colorFabb XT-CF20 Carbon Fibre Filament - Usable?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Kaan, May 19, 2015.

  1. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    I decided to use an alternative material for a 60% keyboard plate that I'm going to print in 3 pieces

    The Carbon Fibre Filament is obviously very cool, however they warn that it might wear of some nozzle/extruders easily, should I just skip it and use a normal filament?

    I honestly forgot the nozzle specs of the R1, I've been just printing regular PLA's for quite some time now
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have had no issues with CF filament and I have printed a fair amount (different vendors) several spools at any rate.
    However it is not something I print 100% of the time (it is not even a weekly use item for me).

    I suspect wear on the nozzle may be worse, but this is an 'over time' thing... Even the other specialties filaments (Woodfill/Laywood, Bronzefill, etc.) mostly have those same cautions and do probably add more wear to the nozzle. Get spares (nozzles--I can't see it mattering much to the rest of the extruder) if you are really concerned about it and keep an eye on the prints.
     
  3. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    Thanks a lot for the reply, the spares idea makes sense, it's good to know this specific material prints well with the R1 too
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In over two years of printing I have thrown away one nozzle. Even then I probably could have cleaned and re-used it if I felt like dealing with it. Others I have used have not worn significantly.
     
  5. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    I've significantly clogged mine with a wood filament, the wood would get stacked, burned inside and clog it, cleaned with wires each time, sticked to PLA's from that point forward

    I don't know how easy it is to remove the robo3d nozzle, I guess I should research maintenance procedures in detail some time, I could move on with more confidence If I have my nozzle-replacement scenarios ready
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Are you using the 0.4 mm nozzle? I know the wood and others really suggest at LEAST a 0.5 (and 0.6 and 0.8 is what I used).

    You can get clogs with the wood filaments in the smaller nozzles.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Removing the nozzle is easy. Heat the nozzle to 260ish and use a wrench on the heater block and another on the nozzle (you don't want the heater block to move, just the nozzle, because the heat break is small and could be damaged).

    Put it back on hot as well. Snug, but not over-tight.
     
  8. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    I'm using the default nozzle, 0.4mm

    Interestingly, the wood filament was very consistent, clogged at the same point in print each time
     
  9. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  11. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    I guess I should stick to 0.4mm and maybe get a larger one for certain tasks?

    I researches the materials a bit, brass seems to be a better option, I'm guessing the stainless steel has a special purpose
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I assume it just wears better. I have not tried on.

    I seldom use one smaller than 0.4. I normally use 0.8 :)
     
  13. Kaan

    Kaan Member

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    By the way, the advised temp range of the filament is 240-260C - http://colorfabb.com/xt-cf20

    I haven't increased my max temp from the firmware, to stay on the safe side

    I'm not going to hold anyone responsible if my hot end fails, however, should I increase the the max temp for this filament, would it be practically safe?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The all metal hotends (Hexagon and E3D) have a practical upper limit just over 300c (mostly due to the limitations of the thermistor).

    Swap a thermocouple in there and you can get even hotter (a lot).
    I have often printed at or above the numbers you mention (I have an E3D v5).
     
  15. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If they fit the E3D then they should fix the hexagon.
     
    #16 mark tomlinson, Jun 25, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2015
  17. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    Thanks
     
  18. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    On the subject of nozzle clogging I've only thrown one away. I blame switching out so many different materials without properly cleaning the nozzle. I think using the cleaning filament and following the yanking procedure to clean the nozzle is important. PLA can leave material behind and using different materials through the same nozzle could react creating a blockage which is what I think happened to me. I think using the cleaning filament will be essential for novices to prevent having clogs. Unfortunately when it started clogging it was a little at a time and it required high and high temps to print. I didn't realize that was the problem so I ended up raising the temps high enough plastic melted in the heat break. Because clogging can happen slowly you won't necessary realize it when it clogs over the course of months.
     
    Mike Kelly likes this.

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