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donhuevo's E3D Bowden fed X-Carriage

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by donhuevo, May 26, 2014.

  1. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    Weird... the link keeps changing. McMaster.com -> Nuts -> Hex Nuts -> Plastic -> PTFE
     
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yeah I found those, they're just regular nuts though
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  4. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    What makes a coupling nut different?
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's longer. They're meant for combining two threaded rods together. You need at least about 25mm to get the auto-level switch on there
     
  6. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    Now I see what's going on. I don't have the auto-leveling system yet. My R1 came with regular nuts that those PTFE nuts would exactly replace.
     
  7. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yup they would.
     
  8. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    What about a brass nut? It should have less friction on the stainless threaded rod than a steel nut. I just worry that a plastic/nylon nut will wear excessively over time.
     
  9. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    I only brought it up initially as a possible way to make z movement quieter. On the other hand though, because PTFE is so slippery, it would be that much harder for it to wear out.
     
  10. Wilson

    Wilson New Member

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    Why are you using the 5:1 planetary with the ezstruder for a bowden set up on the Robo3D?
     
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    To get an increased amount of torque. You can also use a 5:1 geared reducer like the greg's wade uses
     
  12. Wilson

    Wilson New Member

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    Mike, thanks for the reply that's very helpful.
     
  13. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    I put the z adapter on Thingiverse if you decide to go with the same linear steppers. You can find it here... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:370703/#files

    You'll also need to change your steps per unit in the Marlin firmware. In Configuration.h, search for #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT the numbers after are {X, Y, Z, E}. Change Z to 1600.
     
  14. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    First print with the Y-axis upgrade...

     
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  15. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Would that be a dual hotend x carriage you're printing?
     
  16. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    Haven't had a chance to clean the boogers off yet, but yes it is...

    dual carriage.jpg
     
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  17. Datum

    Datum New Member

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    Dude I don't know how hot your running your extruder but it's glowing red hot. :) Looks HOT :)
     
  18. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    haha! Thank you Datum!
     
  19. Bob64

    Bob64 Member

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    How did you wire up the new z steppers? Do you know what color goes to what on the ramps board?
     
  20. donhuevo

    donhuevo Active Member

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    The wiring freaked me out a little because, not only did it have weird colors (red, brown, green, yellow), but it also had a 6 pin plug at the motor. The first thing I learned researching was that if you short both ends of a coil together, the motor becomes a lot harder to turn. Obviously this test is done to a motor sitting out on a bench without power being supplied to it. The coils on these new motors turned out to be red with brown and yellow with green. Next, testing the same way, the stock stepper coils are red with blue and black with green. Looking at the stock motor's plug, its wired coil pair, coil pair. Lastly, it turns out that, once powered, if your stepper is spinning opposite of what you expect, all you need to do is flip one coil around at the ramps.

    Now for my idiocy... The new motors came without a plug to connect to the ramps. What I should have done was cut the plugs off the motors I removed and spliced them onto the new. What I actually did was attempt to crimp those stupid little pins that lock into those little black plugs. If there is a trick that makes crimping those things easy, I still haven't figured it out. It's because I had one bad crimp in each plug that I can't give you a color-for-color translation now. It turns out that that when you only power one coil, it will still turn but without much power. If the motor stalls (you grab the threaded rod while the motor is trying to turn it), it can reverse itself.

    I know this wasn't the answer you were expecting. I hope it was better.
     

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