I started out building a test bed for a replacement board for my R2. When I finished I had a working printer with a rigid bed mount. I started with the Hypercube Revolution but used only a few of it's plastic parts. The Print Head drive system, although larger, is the Robo R2 design and the parts are compatible. The open design makes it very easy to work on. I have finished uploading all of the STL files. With the info here you can build this machine. It gives a better finish than the R2. The ghosting is gone. The Bed has posts on all 4 corners, does not vibrate like the R2 and leveling is more precise and repeatable. It thinks it is a Robo R2. I handles 240 mm x 250 mm x 250 mm. The size is only dependent on the frame. I am using an Arduino Ramps 1.4 board to replace the Robo R2 main board. Links to the Arduino Code and the Raspberry Pi Image: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PawP4pR68c5fufvpHb5dFmkA578m0oFX/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-MxWXwVyyaGUMoNNhVPjbV1XXL0AVHh/view?usp=sharing The drawings are in Inventor, I will send those files or step files to anyone who requests them. This is a remix of the Hypercube Evolution on thinigiverse.com and it has a spread sheet showing where to obtain parts. The downtown board needs to be modified to isolate the GND on the thermister 0 then move the GND side to the hot of thermister 1. Jonah at partsbuilt.com will supply the board. The Arduino board gives better regulation with an isolated thermister. Jonah at Partsbuilt.com is going to supply the downtown board with a jumper to do this, he is also going to supply the aluminum plate for those running at very high temps. Included so far: All STL files. More info is available on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3504503 I originally designed one size corner piece for all corners. I have now made 4 individual upper corners. This increases the print size, it allows for the alignment of the head and the gantry with no tools. The head is slid to one side then and the gears are loosened to bring the 6mm shaft to touch both corners. The head is now slid to the other side. If there is any gap a corner has to be loosened and tapped until both 6mm shafts touch both corners. In my assembly no tapping was required. The rear left corner uses common mini blade switches. I also included the spacers. The spacers have the trim washers built in. I will spend the time to organize a spreadsheet with all of the parts listed and where to purchase them if anyone contacts me and is interested in building the machine. This machine is very quiet, not sure why though. It is built like a brick shi...house and I think the rigidity gives the high quality output. If you are building this and run into trouble I will assist you.