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E3D Installation Question

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Melody Bliss, Dec 4, 2013.

  1. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    Couple of questions. I'm installing the E3D now but having a hell of a time.

    1) Did you have to remove the fan (the one that's on the Robo3D) to install the E3D? I couldn't get the E3D into the hole that the old hotend vacated without removing the fan (it was in the way)

    2) Should the two screws that hold the hotend in place just slide in? I can't seem to get the screws into place. I finally have one partially in but it's a bear to get it screwed down. The other just spins in place and isn't catching on anything.

    I just pulled the screws and looked at the top of the hotend and see that it looks like the screws eat into part of the top. I looked at the old hotend and I see the same thing. So I'm guessing that this is normal. I picked up 3mm-.5 x 25 screws that are (unfortunately) slotted. I'll hit the hardware store and pick up either phillips headed or maybe torx headed (if I can find them) screws.
     
  2. BjG

    BjG Member

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    1) My robo did not have a fan (early PLA version), the new hotend just slid right in.

    2) I screwed the screws out just enough to get the old hotend out and the new hotend in (newer fully removing the screws)

    Once my hotend was properly aligned to the top of the carriage (i did this with a bit of filament through the extruder hole) i just tightned the screws fully.

    It's normal for the screws to dig into the metal of the hotend.
     
  3. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    Yes, the parts fan is in the way. It's metal holder is in the way too.

    You could use this modified bracket instead which moves the parts fan further back.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186027
     
  4. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    I could not get the screw removed at all for the fan holder. :( So I had to (finally) fully remove the hood and pulled the X assembly off of the rails. That let me pull it. Unfortunately, like so many of these screws, I stripped the head so I need to get a replacement. Looks like they're M4 x 20mm though I'm not sure of the pitch. But if I get a replacement bolt and lock nut it shouldn't matter.

    I was hoping to have the printer up and running tonight but I guess it'll have to wait Yet Another Day. :(
     
  5. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    yeah, all the screws/bolts seem to strip easily, kinda annoying.
     
  6. Matthias

    Matthias Member

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    Consolidating my questions to this thread:
    How about firmware modifications? I think one might be increasing the max temp for the hotend. I'm new to arduino/RAMPS/Marlin, but I figured that there's an IDE and the Marlin firmware that you download , then compile and upload the firmware to your printer. However, there's some Configuration.h that looks quite printer specific.
    Can the RoBo team share this file here? Maybe it's already done and I missed it.

    Thanks!
     
  7. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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  8. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    I also have modified versions in github.

    Leon's is here: https://github.com/melodybliss/Marlin/tree/Marlin_v1_Leon
    and mine is here: https://github.com/melodybliss/Marlin/tree/Melody_Robo3d

    Both mine and Leon's has the hotend maxtemp set to 330. Leon's also has a modification to support the VIKI LCD whereas mine is a modification of the robo3d's 10-9-13 version that supports the RepRap Discount LCD

    If you want to modify the files yourself the file that you need to modify is Configuration.h. I've included line numbers below:

    133 // When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
    134 // This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/faile!
    135 // You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
    136 #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 235
    137 #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
    138 #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
    139 #define BED_MAXTEMP 150
    HEATER_0_MAXTEMP is the hotend maximum temperature for Extruder 0
    BED_MAXTEMP is the max temp for the bed.
     
  9. Matthias

    Matthias Member

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    Cool, thank you guys!

    Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
     
  10. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    Gah. I couldn't find socket headed M3 .5 x 25 locally so got phillips instead. Stripped those going in. :( so I ordered socket headed screws and also small screw removal tools.

    This is kind of pissing me off. :(
     
  11. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    no allen head screws at all, Melody? Even home depot carries those (admittedly, at an asinine price).
     
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I generally have pretty good luck removing stripped screws with vise grip needle nose pliers.
     
  13. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    I would suggest using liquid soap on the screws before screwing them back on.

    Did so and they went in rather easily.

    I believe the originals are imperial size so couldn't get hold of allen ones in the UK.
     
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I stuck a M3 nut on one, so it's close enough.

    Regardless thread doesn't matter since it's just digging into the E3D. It could be any number of options
     
  15. Matthias

    Matthias Member

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    Confused.... Can you post a pic?

    Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
     
  16. Melody Bliss

    Melody Bliss New Member

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    That what is frustrating. Home Depot's selection of metric is asinine. :( My local hardware store (Orchard) has a better selection but they didn't have them in M3 or M4 at the size I needed. :(
     
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    McMaster-Carr or amazon is where I buy my hardware. I don't even bother trying lowes/home depot unless I'm desperate and want to spend 3-4x as much.
     
  18. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    McMaster-Carr is my favorite place ever. I only don't mention it because everyone hear does lol. but yes, allen screws. McMaster-Carr. :). I'll check out the thread sizes when my E3D arrives...I'm going bowden so everything is coming off.
     
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  19. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    It does matter on the size of the hole of the mounting plastic part where the screw will be passing through though.

    I did get an Allen M4 and when I realized how much wider it was compared to the pre-drilled hole, I just used a (new) imperial size(with casual Philips head) one.
     
  20. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I just meant if it's the same size range. 3mm or #4 , either would work
     

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