E3D Installation Question

I didn't it. But it totaly stuck . Maby i was lucky everything seems to work well, the fan, extruder etc. The only thing left is to flash the software and heat it up to 290 dgr and seal the nossle .

Is it hard to flash the software? Any issues to considerate?

 

"I didnt sand it"

 

Muldal, Just be very careful in tightening the nozzle to the block. the stainless tube can easily break between the block and the heat sink. I tightened mine before I screwed the assembly to the carriage. This way it was easier to hold and control and avoid any force on the stainless tube. I held the block with a small crescent wrench. Just try not to burn yourself!

 

Thank you steve! Is there any info around here on how to "flash" the software to get the extruder to 290dgr?

 

The FAQ from Melody Bliss nails it. Are you familiar with Arduino?

 

Download the latest Marlin firmware from http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/marlin-firmware-update-3-14-14.1857/ .

Open the configuration.h file and edit the HEATER_0_MAXTEMP constant and change it to something like 310C as I did here:

​

//#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 240 //robo​

// SLC change for E3D hotend​

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 310​

If you have not already make sure you change the Thermistor type constant in the same file as described in: http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=extras/blog/getblog&blog_id=19 . You will probably change it to 5 as I did here:

//#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 //robo​

// SLC Change for E3D hotend Semitec thermistor​

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5​

Follow the directions in Melody's FAQ http://lele.io/robo3dfaq to download the new firmware. It's easy, really.

 

Crosspost... Stupid me, I didn't even bother to look in the FAQ to see how much detail was in it.

 

Thanks, you guys are awsome! Solongsidekick; no im not familiar with the Arduino software, i just downloaded the 1.0.5 . But im a quick learner. I just like to ask 'stupid questions' just to learn from others mistakes to prevent doing unessasary mistakes. Im total new to the 3d printing world. But i have years of experience from the car industry and building cars. That's in many ways compareble both mechanical and electrical. Im not the best when it comes to computers. But i spend what ever time needed to learn what i do need to know to accomplish my goals. Im currently studying engeneering and i builds nissan engines as a living. Thats why i got a 3d printer. To make prototypes of car parts (and car plastic parts) and offcourse to get the expertise.

 

just one more question. I heated the extruder to 290 dgrc and carefully tightened it. Successfully (i think). but for the software flashing, im not sure if i did it right, (i assume i did since it heated to 290 with no problem) i modified the configuration.h file and added the things you said steve. In then saved it (it saved in a new filder, and i had to drag it to the existing folder and overwrite the old) then i opened the file "Marlin_3_14_14.ino and verified it and uploaded it successfully to the printer (with the powercord off and the switch to 0 leaving only the USB in) Is this right? or do i need to upload the configuration.h file saparately ? If so, its funny that it heated to 290 ?

 

That sounds like you did everything right muldal. If it is heating to 290 then you are good to go. The configuration.h file gets used when you do the upload, as far as I understand.

 

Yeah if the hotend went up past 230 you're good to go. I think the hard limit is 230, maybe 240.

 

Stock safety limit is 235

 

Thanks for the help guys, before e3d and colorfabb filament, it was mission impossible to print larger things, it also came out ugly, the little parts. Now with the E3d print head, new hobbed bolt and some other mods i print like a god! It really amazes me how big the diffrence is. My biggest problem before was to get big objects to stick to the glass plate (yes, i use painters tape, and a 0.1mm mesure blade, since im printing at 1 micron layer hight.) Now it sticks like a magnet! It might be just the filament, but my conclution is both the filament and hotend.

 

Muldal, That's great news. How do you like the colorfab filament? I am having some issues with the edges of solid infill parts like flat plates at 0.3mm layer heights. I will post this elsewhere so I don't hijack this thread.

"...since i'm printing at 1 micron layer height."​

You probably mean 100 micron or 0.1mm layer height

 

Steave. Yesterday it seemed like everything was going smooth but after 4-5 layers the outer edges on my print started to lift and ruined my print.

I really cant see what im doing wrong . But i will try again in an hour or so.

I use solid innfil set to 1. But as you say it still not seem total solid, there are smal gaps between the solid fill

I suspect my software configurations is wrong

Do anybody see something wrong in this:

I use 190 degrees first layer then 180 others layers
0 degrees printbed
Blue painterstape
I level the x axis by using 0.1mm mesure blade between the painter tape and the nossle on both sides of the bed.
But when i manually drag the x axis it seems to touch alittlebit in the middle of the bed.

For speeds, i have set ALL speeds to 15mm/s (just because i want to learn not get my job done fast)
Layer hight i use : 0.1058mm

Upgrades to the printer: e3d print head, motherboard cooling fan, new hobbed bolt, z axis stabilazers

Im trying to print the platform lifters because im going to install the reprap xxl lcd and i already have a 80mm fan to the motherboard, so right not i use some wood planks to lift the printer

I dont use support material.

I though use skirt and two loops, and brim set to 2

 

Muldal, A few comments to start. If you are using Colorfab 180C seems too low. I use around 220C for Colorfab with my E3D. I can't tell you the exact temp right now because I am slicing something really large. I will post the exact temps later. As far as the lifting I can't comment on the painter tape. I use the standard Aquanet 3 Super Hold hairspray and the only time I had problems with Colorfab sticking was with thin walled sections and no brim. I added a brim to these prints and they are fine. I also use a 50C first layer 45C other layer heated bed. In many situations for PLA Aquanet holds a bit too much.

I printed the standard XXL case not Tony's mod and had no problem other than the Colorfab edges issue I mentioned above. The edge problem probably has to do with the extruder multiplier setting and it extruding too much especially on thick layers like 0.3mm. The edges are bumpy because the solid infill bulges out and pushes on the outer wall extrusion which chatters as it goes by the infill bulges. I am trying to calibrate for this now.

 

Steve! Could you please slice the top with Slic3r and send me the Gcode? I can not get Slic3r to slice it, and Cura just does a slapped-ass job of it. I would love you forever .

EDIT - By 'standard' case do you mean the one not designed to attach to the Robo3D? If so never mind. My bad.

Just thought of something, I read somewhere (I believe Melody's FAQ) to make a software change regarding the thermistor. I didn't do this, is this mod required? What for?

 

is there an issue with leaving the stock thermistor when using the E3D?

 

Nope I encourage using the stock thermistor in case you break one you'll have a spare