E3D Titan Extruder

Super excited to see development for this, I was thinking about picking up one but was worried about compatibility with the existing carriage, now I know and I'll just wait for all you smart peeps to model up somethin good

 

printed my version out. will try it tonight. I had a z-axis bearing explode on me from removing the carriage so many times so that may stall me a little.

 

I printed mine last night, but I got some curling. Print separated from the bed on one side. I should still be able to test it, but I'm waiting on a set of bearings as I don't want to disassemble the stock carriage. Also, the new motor is on the way.

@KTMDirtFace I was looking through the thread and I realized that I never explained why the .5mm wider bearing holes don't bother me. For parts that need to be precision mounted, I always ream the hole after printing and use shims to ensure the correct fit and position of those parts. It may be more work, but I can make sure that I won't have any binding.

 

Looks good. I always print my carriage with a raft and supports ( though I removed a bunch of the unneeded supports from the holes )

 

I got my 20mm motor today and everything for my mount is working great with it. However, I went to put the final assembly of the Titan together for the first time and the idler arm slides over the shaft of the motor and is super snug. I measured and the hole in the idler arm and it is almost a tenth of a millimeter smaller than the shaft diameter. I checked against two other motors stock off of the Robo and same thing. Seems like it would be way too much friction introduced into the system. Anyone else have this issue? I even lightly sanded the end half of the motor shaft to remove any sharp edges. I tried just turning the gears by hand and the resistance is too much.

 

I haven't got that far in assembling mine.

Could you ream it out?

 

That is a possibility, but would hate to compromise the material and cause premature wear/slop. Tom even mentioned in his video from yesterday that there was some concern with that setup having plastic against rotating metal. I would have loved to have seen them put a ~5mm ID sintered bronze sleeve in place of the Delrin 500CL plastic.

Maybe I will try and use the polishing kit I have for pine wood derby axles on the motor shaft to give it a nice smooth finish to reduce friction.

 

Is this the motor you have http://www.amazon.com/Short-Bipolar...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 ?
I have that motor still in the box that I got last week and will try it when I get home this evening.

 

Yes sir. That is the exact one I ordered.

 

It looks like the center of the hole is what is tight. You can see the molding line in the center. If I just put the first third or so on either side the idler lever over the shaft it rotates easily. It's just when I get into that middle area that it gets tight. I had to pry it. Injection molding can be interesting when it comes to close tolerances I guess.

 

Well I decided I liked Thomas's design on youtube so Im printing this out right now. Should allow the quick release peice to work and drop the hotend and just bolt right on. No idea if it will hold the stock motor as the only thing holding it is the nubbins that go inside the titan.

Havn't prettied up the model with Fillets and whatnot yet.. making sure it all fits first.

Printing now will post up if it works or not. Also i got my connectors today from DigiKey so i can solder a connector onto that new motor.

 

I just stuck mine on the motor shaft, while there is some drag delrin( I think its delrin? ) is pretty slippery. I'm not too worried about it I could easily turn it.. I'll probably get the motor spinning and hold some sandpaper wrapped on the shaft for the hell of it. The molding on the center of mine doesn't seem to protrude much at all.. hit yours with a drill bit by hand?

 

I think its going to work.. gonna do some minor tweaks..and then mount it up.. one thing is my yellow quick release has the holes in the wrong place...because I modified my carriage by 0.5mm a while ago the holes are off a tad. If this works I'll have to make another version that works for the stock carriage. or you can chop 0.25mm off from each side and shift the ends in so the holes line up right.

 

Would you post the links to the connectors you ordered from DigiKey please? I had no idea what to search for. I have 4-pin Molex for power supplies and 4 pin PWM fan type connectors I could use but I rather keep them the same to match everything else.

 

Yep these are the ones. I'm gonna solder the motor wires and probably hot glue and shrinkwrap it so its tough.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B6B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1708-ND/926615

Yea its hard to figure out the right ones..but I tested them on the stock wires the link is the correct ones.

 

The motor shaft rubs on mine also. If I put it on all the way and try to spin it, it will turn about 3/4 the way. But like you said if I place it on not quite to the center of the idler, it turns fairly smooth. Will a hand turned drill bit or a round file do any damage to the operation?

 

You mentioned you "ordered 10 and 10 of the angled ones". Is there something besides the http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B6B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1708-ND/926615 I should order?

 

Same connectors but setup for a 90deg angle. I probably won't use these ones. But they were cheap so i ordered some.
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...ica-inc/S6B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1723-ND/926630

 

Soldred and hotglued and put some shrinkwrap on.. maybe tomorrow I'll be able to mount something.

 

Do the stepper motors have connectors to plug into the board in the underside or are the wire terminated into screw down terminal block?