E3D Titan Extruder

If anyone wants to try this it might work..for the E3DV6 and the stock carriage and the smaller stepper..I imagine the stock stepper motor will be to much weight since it doesn't have a real mounting plate. Im still printing final versions of mine...so its untested other than some test fits. If I don't fall asleep before its done printing tonight I will install it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/983u3ea7mpeq8ft/R3DTitanSimpleMount_AlphaUntested.zip?dl=0

You will also need this, and probably some longer M4 Bolts and Locknuts.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

 

Ok Prof...This carriage will work for sure for you. I just did a test fit and it works nicely. To keep the limit switch for the X in place for you and I, I will need to make a couple more small parts. Since you want the motor in the back (good choice) I will need to make a little longer stop to either screw into the endcap on the X or maybe a cap that can go over the existing one to give just 5 more mm so that the motor doesn't hit the side of the x carriage ends. I will also need to make a quick bar for the endstop to screw into that is just a bit shorter or adjust my mount by about 2mm. Now I have to put it all together again to print those parts. I love it!

Not having ever used a V6 before, what are others doing for the part cooling fan before the Titan? Whatever it is, it should still work with this design. Man and the V6 is secured solid with this bracket...and the Hex as well.

I need to get this on Thingiverse as a WIP. It is all set for those with a carriage with the switch on the endstop. I just need to make something for us older gen R1.

KTM's bracket will also work just fine as well. I love the options the group has come up with.



EDIT: The one fail I have in my design is that I used MK's "stock" carriage model for a basis of mounting it in CAD. He customized it a bit and the center hole is larger than stock. So instead of being able to do a straight drop in of the hotend assembly, I have to go from underneath. Still doable, just not as nice as I had designed it to be. Oh well. Only a factor when putting the motor to the back anyway.

 

Hey thats pretty cool nice!

For e3DV6 parts cooling fan I was using this, but it constantly gets melted on the hotend. I need to mod it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:977487 Its a remix of this. --however this one doesn't fit the fans right so the remix works better http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697200

Edit: It looks like there is a new remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000756 I will have to try this one.

EDIT 2: somehow I missed this from e3d customizable spacer plate.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1472259

 

Too tired to finish tonight. my holdup is I need some exact length screws, i'm going to have to dremel the ends off some M4's I have. I didn't leave much playspace for the screws to come up through the mount...without them hitting the motor. I want them just flush so i can spin the entire thing around whatever way I want.

It fits though after a lot of cleanup from my supports, and figuring out how long to make my PTFE tube. I'm going to extend the top nubbin thing on the mount a bit, its a real tight fit I only left .2 or .3mm and it just fits.

Its just sitting up there with screws part way in. I actually do NOT think the 25mm motor will fit facing the rear as it stands the 20mm motor is really close to the belts.

The parts: 100% infil petg


Printed with supports and cleaning them out kinda sucked. probably should print it on its side or upside down with supports I dunno yet.


Ignore the crazy long PTFE out the top I just stuck a chunk in there that I had

Its real close to the belts with the 20mm stepper

 

Man...almost a 60% weight drop over the Greg's Wade assembly. GW is ~500g with stock motor and hardware. The Titan, mount, and 20mm pancake motor is only ~200g. That's about 3/4 pound difference.

 

Woot got mine installed and working. I ditched my wire chain for the time being and don't really like how i have it wired..but whatever for now.

That nubbin pink block stuck on my x stopper screw I had to use stock as well. Its only because my wires stick out to much the extruder doesn't stick out more than stock at all...just the wires..but they always have for me on this robo for whatever reason. Maybe the factory in china or whatever bolted my stop switch inward too much ( Don't have this issue on my new R1+ )




Just working on adjusting the steps right now then I'll print something. Their reccomended steps of
456 from here http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly seemed to extrude way to much. Lol my first extrude test before I messed with the steps was crazy with the stock 723.38.. it was just a huge fat stream coming out of the nozzle.

I did have to dremel my m4 mount bolts with a metal cutting wheel so they wouldn't protrude at all. Kinda annoying to get them just right but I did. Basically I mounted it up without the extruder.. dremeled a notch in the bolts where i wanted to cut them.. took it all apart so as not to melt everything. Stuck the bolts in a vice and cut them off and reinstalled it all.

 

Looking forward to your design. Moving the switch off the carriage shouldn't be too hard so unless you are leaving your switch on the carriage, don't do anything special. The plugs for the stepper motor are to arrive Friday and also a new acrylic middle plate from Robo 3D should be be delivered this Friday.

Hopefully I'll get time this weekend to install the Titan, V6, & the Volcano. While I am doing that I'll probably replace the middle plate because it has a crack on there left side where the screws for the smooth rod mount is. I am guessing it was cracked during shipping or it wasn't seen when it was being "refurbished". I have had the refurbished one for almost a month now and didn't noticed until I was comparing the differences between the R1 and the R1 Plus in a well lit area. The plate looks to be bending where the crack is.

 

Hopefully your good at soldering. I suck..but I got it done without things touching other things. Sorry for blurry pic



I threw hot glue on the soldered side after but the pins still like to move around.. It works but I wouldnt want to unplug and plug it back in very much.

 

If I tin the wires and soldering tip and a little flux on the pins it should be fairly quick and a good hold. I won't be unplugging it by pulling the wires so it should be okay.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

yea i tinned the wires and the pegs..it worked out.

Also First success print. in PETG.. had some issues getting it to stick but my lame 20x20x20 cube came out great in all dimensions.

I will have to try ninja flex tomorrow, as that was the whole point in me upgrading to the titan.

Oh I ended up with about 406 for my Extruder step settings in the firmware. 456 that E3D reccomended shot about 10mm more than it should.

 

Sorry about that. I will load everything onto Thingiverse tonight. I crashed early last night and didn't do much on the printer. I did manage to design a quick bracket for mounting the switch onto the carriage and push it forward enough to clear. I didn't print it because I haven't put the printer back together yet. So still an option to keep it on the carriage if you want. I've got 14 yards of mulch coming tomorrow, so I better get this out there tonight.

I debated about getting a sheet of aluminum and machine out all the holes for the middle plate. I haven't noticed any cracking yet, but still might be a project down the road. Only $20 off of amazon (http://amzn.com/B00WZQGGEG) and some time on the drill press. Robo is pretty good about supporting the refurbished printers. I bought mine last July and had a couple minor issues and they sent me replacement parts out right away. I've been pretty satisfied with their help when needed.

 

Nothing to be sorry for. I wasn't meaning to sound like I am waiting on you to finish your mount. Sure I am excited to try the three I have seen so far but I'll be lucky if I can find time during the weekend or ever for that matter to take the printer apart and replace/upgrade the middle plate, the titan, and the V6. It is hard to find & justify time spent to play with this "new toy". I have a wife & seven children that probably want some of my attention back.

"Where's Daddy?"
"Did you look by the 3D printer"

"Matt? Matt? Matt?"
"huh?"
"You need to get up. What time did you go to bed last night?"
"Ummmm, uuuhhh, I don't know."
"What time?"
" 2:00?"
"What time?"
"4:30 "
"Don't you have to work at 8?"
"yeah"

My point being, take all the time you need and thanks to everyone for the time and effort put into all the models.

 

7 kids...wow! You sir needed the 3d printer, because you obviously had too much time on your hands before. haha!

Yeah Tuesday night ended up being a 4am bed time for me and a 6:30 start time at work. So easy to burn hours having a fun with toys.

 

So I still cannot print ninja flex even with this Titan.

It's about impossible to get it fed through it likes to squirt out the top above the bearing, takes some fanagling once its feeding it then jams and the drive gear slips. My modded Flexystruder worked way better than this ( which was not very good ).

I'm gonna keep messing with it....its not looking good though. it will extrude a little then the drive gear just starts slipping constantly. and it jams. I cranked the tension spring down all the way for ninja flex. I was running it like half way for PETG. I'm having problems even getting it to extrude into mid air .. let alone printing anything...which has always been my problem with ninja flex.

Maybe its my ninja flex, one thing I have noticed with it is on average its probably 1.71 - 1.72 in diameter..its really narrow compared to all other filament. I'm going to try some esun eFlex i have that is actually closer to 2mm and hardly fits through the PTFE tube..but its just as flexy as ninja flex I think.

Edit: Nope.. same problem with the eflex.

 

Did you put the PTFE tube out of the hotend far enough to go all the way to the top of the black filament guide? Did you also put a piece of PTFE tube into the top of the idler lever? If yes and yes, then maybe the tension screw needs some adjustment. I'll be bummed out if flex doesn't work with this.

 

Yes my PTFE goes from the E3D all the way to the top of the black guide deal( which was a pain in the butt to get the measurements exact lol ). yes I put PTFE on the top too.

Hmm so eFlex and Ninja flex reccomend like 210-230 temps. I had been doing 230. I just cranked it up to 250.. and it extruded a bunch in a nice stream better than i have ever seen. And it did not jam or slip, I extrued a couple hundred MM through octo Print.. Hopefully thats all it is. going to try to print now.

 

Nope still wont extrude...frustrating.

Now I'm thinking my flexystruder mod was not a fail and this stuff just doesn't work...or I am doing something wrong.

 

So it extrudes in octoprint but not when you send it a print job? Did you also dial down the speed of the print? You can't print as fast as PLA and such I have heard (haven't tried it myself).

 

Yea running it at 30mm/s I have tried as slow as 15mm/s. Gonna play with my Z offset. maybe its backpressure that just causes it to not be able to extrude. because it seems to go fine when i just extrude 100mm out with it in the air.

Funny enough I have printed NinjaFlex on my Replicator2 at default PLA speeds without this many issues. EDIT: This was printed on my replicator2 in ninja flex.. with supports even lol. Not sure why I have so much troubles getting the robo to print it. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vWFv2Hk/0/X3/i-vWFv2Hk-X3.jpg

Its got to be settings or something if I can't get it to work on the stock robo extruder with fully supported ptfe, or my flexystruder or the titan.