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Fans; Single or dual, shroud or no shroud

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Captain McGillacutty, Feb 20, 2016.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think I know where @Geof is going with this.
    If you have boosted the fans (or added more) and the air is blowing on the hotend rather than the part it is supposed to be cooling then you may want to bump to a higher wattage heater core.Hexagon comes with a 30w, E3D (normal v6) comes with a 25w... replace that with a 40w unit and it will probably be able to keep up.

    If you can find a better duct that keeps the air flow away from the nozzle that will work as well.
     
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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes exactly. MORE POWER!

    For the hexagon i had a picture up a ways. I might still have the stl. That was the only config that worked fr the stock set up and dual fans. The heater just couldnt take anything else. Bigger heater and the problem went away.
     
  3. mjensen2k

    mjensen2k New Member

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    More Power!!

    Honestly, I don't know which hotend I have. Did I mention newbie? I googled each and it appears that the main visual different is inside the body and I cannot see it. I'm in the middle of a print right now as well. I have the R1+ from amazon, but it almost appears to be a refurb with some of the + attributes and without some??

    I'll keep you all posted. I found where I can set the max fan speed in Matter Control and will see how that works for me. I'll look into the added power for the hot end as well as different duct.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The stock hotend is the hexagon so that is what you have if you didn't upgrade it.

    Easiest thing to do is find a duct that doesn't blow as much on the nozzle. The part is what you want to cool anyway, not the extruder.
    Failing that :) Get a bigger heater core -- it is an easy upgrade (and cheap, you can get 5 of them for 10 bucks on Amazon Prime).
     
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  5. mjensen2k

    mjensen2k New Member

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    Update and perhaps helpful for someone else...

    I did update my fan shrouds to this pair: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:821080 with this fix: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1026691

    Temperature seemed better able to hold with these two and my fans going at 100%.

    Secondly, though, my old controls engineer woke up and I realized I needed to update my hotend PID settings with any new configuration and set as if it's printing. I moved my head down to about 1mm about the deck, I turned on my fans, I let the head cool and ran through a calibration around my normal operating temp of 210. I put the new PID settings in with the new fans and so far so good. I'm just running a test print right now.

    Moral: hot end PID should be done after any new change and should be run as close to reality as possible. Fans on during PID tuning!
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good work, PID tuning helps.
    I have only ever seen issues with it on the bed heaters.
    Sometimes those won't pass the PID tune.
     
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