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First good print!

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Pyro, Jun 4, 2014.

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  1. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    Hello Everyone,

    I got my robo 3d a few days ago and just started getting good prints from it... but only when using Cura not so much on Slic3r which i dont understand why...

    The only issue i have at the moment is that it doesn't seam to fill in the gaps very well... I have attached a photo of a cookie cutter i printed and it has lots of gaps that have not been filled in... otherwise everything else is fine

    my guess is that its something called the infill settings but i didn't want to mess around with it just yet, here is a photo of my print.

    Super happy with my printer! value for money!!!

    Cheers
    Humpa
     

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  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Looks like you're having some under extrusion issues.

    Can you measure your filament flow rate is accurate?

    Heat up your nozzle and feed in filament. At the entry point to the cold end mark the filament. Then extrude 20mm or so. Mark the filament again and then pull it out. measure the distance between marks.
     
  3. Montravont

    Montravont Active Member

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    Also, what temperature did you print that at? If that's the blue PLA that came with the printer, it looks like it got printed at around 175-185 maybe? If so, try a higher printing temp. I found 195-205 works well for the blue they sent with the printer.
     
  4. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    thanks so i worked it out.. it was just the infill was set to .25 and i wanted it at 1 :)

    So now I'm getting the prints i want... i have started to get some black goo leaking onto the prints and making them look burnt, not exactly sure where its coming from but looks like its where 2 red cables go into a cylinder / the square extruder head.

    is this normal?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That sounds like the nozzle on the extruder. Leakage = Not normal. I do not know if the current nozzles are removable from the extruder or not, you can try to tighten it if it has a removable nozzle. The aftermarket ones (like E3D) do have screw on nozzles. If I were home I could check the original stock nozzle, but the new printers might be different.
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Nope not at all. Start a Tech Support Request

    You'll need to remove your nozzle and see if it can be tightened or if there's a bigger issue like a cracked PTFE tube.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I had totally forgotten about that. That would absolutely cause this sort of symptom.
     
  8. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    thanks, i will open a support case about it.... I wanted to change the head to an e3d but I want to wait and see how the printer runs for a few months before changing stuff....

    so hopefully they can solve my problem.

    thanks for the support, really great community here!!
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You will get the experience of dismounting the hot end :) You will need to do that to replace the tube. So you will have some idea of what installing the E3D is like. There are a few other steps with a totally new hot end (like updating the firmware, replacing the part cooling fan mount, etc.).
     
  10. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    So i got first contact from support and sent them some photos... my heated bed stopped working which was strange... it was also really hard to remove the connector and then finally when i got them appart i figured out why...

    The connector had actually burnt on the inside and fused the plastic together.... :( so both connectors (controller board and bed sides) are now black and burnt on one of the pins... and not making contact.

    I am waiting to see what support say, i am tempted to cut and use the molex connectors from an old PC power supply to fix it but am waiting to find out what they suggest i do before voiding my warranty....
     
  11. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    well its been about a week now and i still have not heard anything from support... really disappointed with the reaction time on a printer which was about 1 week old when things started to fail...
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can go ahead and replace the connector w/o any issues.
     
  13. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    cool, so I replaced the connector with the molex connectors from an old pc power supply all working great again... except the leaking head which i'm still waiting on a reply from support for...

    so I got myself a XXL LCD from RepRap discount and printed a case for it which all turned out great.

    the only other issue I have is the grinding noise the Z makes... its constantly squeaking and is really noisy on long prints..
     
  14. Montravont

    Montravont Active Member

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    Grease the threaded rods.

    Mine was squeaking a deathly amount until I did that.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Make sure you emailed them, don't bother posting in the private tech support forum.
     
  16. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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    thanks, will grease them!

    I have email them and its been a week since they contacted me...
     
  17. Pyro

    Pyro New Member

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  18. Jcastor

    Jcastor New Member

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    Montravont, what did you grease them with? I was going to use a light oil, but wasn't sure if I needed to use something like white lithium grease?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Lithium lube is the best choice. Light oil will wear off faster. I have lubricated mine maybe twice since I got it.
     
  20. Montravont

    Montravont Active Member

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    ^This
     
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