Solved First print - infill not touching perimeter

It's definitely hitting the back endstop on the Y-Axis when doing the ABL probing. Might have to take off the bed tonight and look at the axis.

 

Ok so you do a G28 to home all axis prior to G29 to probe for ABL correct?

 

Yes. I'll do a manual home when I start the printer. Then, when I start a print, the printer does a home, then starts the ABL procedure. The start position of the first probe point is (X15,Y20) and clearly moves to the first point in the right position.

 

These are not final release yet and I caution using it unless you are sure you want to move forward. You can always revert back, but just want you to know these aren't final releases.

The latest ABL firmware in the long 1.1.0 thread is here http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...st-rc7-for-r1-r1-plus.5806/page-38#post-90140

The latest MESH firmware (if you don't have an LCD this gets more difficult to implement) is here http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...st-rc7-for-r1-r1-plus.5806/page-38#post-90142

 

That's an end gcode script thing. I don't remember all that is in my end gcode. I will post that tonight when I get home.

 

Nate - The issue with small gaps where the center area meets the inside of the perimeter walls is one I had recently. In Matter Control I increased Infill Overlap to 0.08mm to connect better with inner wall surfaces. Decreased Top Solid Infill speed to 40mm/s. Decreased Outside Perimeter speed to 40mm/s. I'm using PLA but these settings are worth trying.

 

I installed Marlin 1.1.0 tonight from the link in dance6's post. I used the ABL enabled version, though I see where I can enable the mesh leveling at a later point. There are a couple of clear differences I want to point out for documentation sake:





Note, in all pics the Marlin 1.1.0 is on the left and the right is the "Leadscrew Upgrade Firmware". In the top 2 pics, notice that the max positions and back probe bed position are less on the Marlin 1.1.0 than the stock firmware. This alone fixed the issue with my bed hitting the stop on home.



The extruder steps defaulted to 800. The stock firmware is 723.38. When I ran my extruder calibration, I discovered I needed to set it 738.08 to ensure it extruded 100mm (+/- 0.05mm). So, I assume if you are flashing a new firmware version you are probably going to run a calibration procedure. Otherwise that 800 could get you into trouble.

Last note in regards to the Marlin install: You will need to install the U8Glib library on the Ardunio software to get it to work. Download the latest release as a zip file from https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino and add it to your libraries.

I also set the Z-Offset down to 0.4 in the configuration. So far it's been working perfectly. Here's a calibration cube I printed. The infills are great and functioning as designed. The cube is also spot on dimension wise. I measured 20.00 x 20.02 x 10.04mm which I am ecstatic about.







I think we can call this problem solved...

 

I did the extruder calibration test at 800 steps and it overextruded by 8.6mm. I used matter control and just selected 100mm increment and hit the manual extrude. I didn't change the extrusion multiplier. The number in the original firmware that the Robo came with was 723.68. I could see 800 being a decent number if the hobbled gear is worn or spring tension isn't set correct.

My main goal was to document the discrepancy in the standard Robo firmware numbers with your numbers for future reference by someone. I think your numbers are

On another note, how do you remove filament line from the printer? When I did the calibration test, I preheated the hotend to temp, then retracted the filament manually for as far as it would go. Then I pulled back on the spring clamp but the filament wouldn't budge. I tried pulling pretty firmly. I ended up cutting it, marking it, and then refeeding it.