First Wood Filament Print

I've had my R1+ for a couple weeks now and have been printing a fair amount with it. This is my first successful wood filament print using Hatchbox 1.75mm filament.

70C Bed Temp
195C Extruder Temp
0.6mm Nozzle w/ 0.2mm Layer Height

 

Did you put a stain or anything on that?

 

Yeah, I used what I think was some cherry stain I had left over from something else.

 

Hmmm...I might have to give that a go. Always wanted to try wood filled filaments. Did you use the standard .4 mm nozzle or did you bump it up a bit?

 

I used a .6mm nozzle nickel plated nozzle I got off Amazon. I also have a .8mm one I haven't tried yet.

 

I didnt realize you had to change nozzles to use the wood filament.

My printer is scheduled to be delivered with wood filament tommortow.

Maybe robo 3d should have included a larger nozzel with that package.

 

I'll second what Geof said. I'm using a wear resistant nozzle for the abrasiveness. I've actually switched over the nickel coated nozzles for all of my printing now.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-...021&sr=1-4&keywords=Micro-Swiss+HW-NOZ-MODMK8

 

thanks for that link.
since the printer is coming with wood filament, I guess I should get that nozzle.
it just screws in< nothing else I should be a ware of?


btw, I like how that round raised section in the key ring appears like wood grain.

 

No problem. Yes, it just screws in. To install it I prefer taking the extruder out. To do that there's a screw on the side you'll have to loosen for the assembly to come out. There are then to set screws to loosen to remove the heater cartridge and thermocouple. You may have to adjust the height of the tube that the filament enters through. To do that remove it, install the nozzle, and then reinstall the tube. The extruder head is just uncoated aluminum, so be sure not to over-tighten any of the hardware.

A bit of advice when you get your printer, check that it's level and make sure the contact switches on both of the lead screws are positioned correctly. Mine was not level when I got it and one of the contact switches was loose. You'll save yourself some frustration and get better prints by doing this before firing it up.

 

The nozzle doesn't really need to be hot to change it either. I've never had an issue removing one without it being heated. If you have a clog it can be necessary to heat it up to remove it though.

 

With a virgin hot end, you might be ok taking the nozzle off without heat, but don't force it if it feels too tight. You will want to do the final snug with it hot for reassembly. Don't want the expansion of the components to cause it to be loose. That is when you ooze all over the place. Nobody wants that. While you are waiting for the printer and part, do some searching. There are guides for how to do it. Like Mark said, be safe dealing with hot things and make sure you don't apply too much unsupported torque. Hate to see you bend or break anything as well.

 

I messed up the wires to the thermister trying to take my nozzle off cold. Be careful.
I've done it hot since and it's much easier for me.
Two small adjustable wrenches this the job nicely.