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Flexible filaments

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Kingbob, May 27, 2014.

  1. adepino

    adepino Member

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    The filament I'm considering on Amazon says its TPU, is that standard for flexible filament or what? Has anyone used this?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    TPU = thermoplastic polyurethane

    It is not a standard, but it is a type of filament.
    If Airwolf sells/makes it it is probably good stuff. I have yet to be disappointed with anything they sell.
    (they sell the Wolfbend brand, others probably sell it as well)
     
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Tried some Ninja flex with my E3D V6 yesterday i have the tube going all the way up to the drive wheel.. i got it to feed, but it was massively under-extruding I was printing with ABS settings like they reccomended... tried to adjust it and then couldn't get it to feed anymore and gave up.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    NinjaFlex is the hardest of the bunch to get right. I had to print it very (very!) slowly and use the plastic-tube mod AND it still wanted to not under-extrude, but rather 'after extrude' :)

    So you had to deal with that as well (no retraction or it got really messy)

    I like NinjaFlex and it is certainly the best thing for certain types of prints, but my favorite is really SemiFlex. It extrudes much easier and is still quite flexible. Not rubbery like NinjaFlex, but still quite bendable.
     
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  5. lamiskin

    lamiskin New Member

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    Perfect idea, it solved my extrusion problems with even Ninja Flex Semi.

    I just found a pen with a suitable ink cartridge and used acetone to clean the ink out.

    IMG_6423.JPG
     
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  6. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I just saw this. Ninjaflex has some odd flow characteristics. If you have it too hot, it will extrude out in blobs rather than continuously, which looks like underextrusion and makes you want to turn up the heat, which makes it worse! Have you been having better success? Try slowing it down and/or dropping temp. On an E3D, you should be at 2225 or so.
     
  7. adepino

    adepino Member

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    Thanks for the tips guys. I just got my filament in last night, so I'm about to try my first print today. I got it from amazon, its SainSmart TPU. The only two types I saw were TPU and TPE (less common), and from what Ive read online, the TPU seems to be what most people use.

    I was under the impression that people were cutting their tubing short and the entire thing went down into the assembly, I didn't realize it was supposed to stick out the top like that picture posted above. Then again, I guess thats the point of having the drilled hole.

    Over the past few months I've noticed the "E3D" comes up a lot in conversation. Is that an aftermarket hotend? What do I have stock on my ROBO 3D R1, bought (7.11.15)?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, the E3D is an aftermarket hotend.
    Robos now come with a Hexagon.
    The overall features are not that different, but I feel the quality and construction of the regular E3D (not the 'lite' version) is superior.
    I have both here and prefer the E3D.

    http://e3d-online.com/

    @Printed Solid sells them here in the US (printedsolid.com)
     
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  9. adepino

    adepino Member

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    One more thing, don't I have to turn off retraction? Im assuming if it tried to retract, its going to pull the tube out? This particular part that I'm about to print, won't need to retract anyway, its basically a tube, or hollowed cylinder.

    Also, multiple people under the amazon reviews state their temps for good prints were about 220C (Extruder) and 40-70C (Bed temp) what do you think? And Ive been using Kapton tape and/or hairspray for adhesion, is that adequate for flexible TPU?
     
    #29 adepino, Aug 8, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    The E3D is significantly better specifically for flexibles due to the PTFE tube that goes all the way to the heat break. It also has a slightly larger bore diameter which makes it more tolerant of junk filament. Other than that, they both perform similarly until the hexagon falls apart :)

    Kapton doesn't actually help with adhesion at all. It just protects the bed, which is generally not needed for glass. I'd tear it off and save yourself the headache of applying it, but that's your call. You'll get the same performance with the hairspray directly on the glass.

    Can't comment on the sainsmart material, but for ninjaflex, 220 is probably fine, but I run around 225. Retraction off is probably a good idea. It's not really going to do much anyways since the material is elastic. Bed can be off.

    Regarding TPE and TPU, this kind of annoys me as a materials engineer. Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) is a general class of polymer. It means an elastic material that can be melted and resolidified. TPU (thermoplastic urethane or thermoplastic polyUrethane depending on where you're reading) is a more specific type (although still a rather high level class). I believe that MOST of the TPEs on the market except for the elastic PLA are TPU of some sort. Then below the TPE class, you have the specific formulations and company brand names like ninja flex.

    It's sort of like talking about dairy and milk. Dairy = TPE, Milk = TPU, Milk from Bob's special Organic Farm = Ninjaflex.
     
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  11. adepino

    adepino Member

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    Ahhh ok that makes sense, thanks for the info. My brother had bought me about 8-10 sheets (8x8) for my bday since he knew i just got my printer, and when i put the first one on (pain in the butt) EVERYTHING would stick without any other adhesive period, just the tape. And it stuck better than hairspray or glue sticks. The sheet seemed to work for quite a while, and the only reason i put a new one is because I tore it up with the scraper, getting pieces off the bed. The second sheet I put on had almost no adhesion whatsoever, and I'm wondering if its because i used a recommended "wet method" of applying it with window cleaner underneath as a lubricant, and then squeegie'ing the liquid out. It made tremendously easier to apply the tape, but absolutely nothing would stick to it, night and day from the first time i used it.
     
  12. adepino

    adepino Member

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    Ok, so almost exactly halfway through my print, my laptop went to sleep... I normally set it to 'never' sleep when I start a print, but I forgot and came back an the extruder was sitting there melting a huge blob onto one side, so now I have to start over, BUT it printed great for my first try! I don't know how flexible NinjaFlex is since this is the first flex filament I've ever tried, but it printed almost exactly as PLA does when it comes to definition. It didn't get stuck or anything, and the settings all seemed to work well.

    It has more of a plasticky feel to the surface versus a rubbery feel, which concerns me since the purpose using a flexible material for me was to have something that has more friction. I wanted it to come out more like the texture of a rubber band. This SainSmart material flexes, but it doesn't really stretch, which is most important to this project, I need my print to stretch over a cylinder, and then have enough friction to 'not' spin around the cylinder when rotational force is applied to the print.

    Is NinjaFlex more rubbery? Is there another brand that might be more 'sticky' after printed?
     

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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are two main kinds (IMHO):

    NinjaFlex which is really, really rubbery and stretchy (this also makes it a bit harder to print well). It really is super flexible.

    There is also SemiFlex which is not as rubbery but will bend/flex (just takes more effort) and is much, much easier to print.
    You can almost treat it like PLA.

    I have used NijaFLex and it is good when you need that, but I really like SemiFlex more.
     
  14. adepino

    adepino Member

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    Ok, but what is the surface texture like of the semi flex? I want to be sure if i were to buy another spool, that I get the right one this time. Will the semi flex be rubbery to the touch so that it creates plenty of friction if you were to rub it against another rubber surface or a plastic surface? Or should I just go for the NinjaFlex, because the SainSmart is very flexible, just not stretchy, and its really more on the plasticky side. Id rather not have two spools of similar material.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Semiflex has a really smooth surface. It doesn't feel like rubber.
    It feels more like plastic in my opinion. It is just a flexible plastic.

    If you want something that looks and feels and acts like rubber, go for the NinjaFlex.
    Just be prepared to be patient learning how to print it and you will need to do the tube mod because on a stock Gregs Wade this is not printable.

    NinjaFlex is like a soft rubber, SemiFlex is more like a hard rubber.
     
    #35 mark tomlinson, Aug 8, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2015
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  16. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    I'd go with the ninja. Even ninja is relatively smooth after it is printed.
    I don't do ninja samples officially because it is a PITA to handle, but if you want to, I can get you a few samples. short sample pieces.
    DM me and I can get you info to send me a paypal for the postage and what not.
    If you're in Europe, it will probably be easier to just get a sample from that place that does samples (can't remember their name off the top of my head).
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks yea it looked like little blobs. I was at 225 or 230. I'm having a hard time getting normal filament into the PTFE tube on my e3d anyway. I think i mushed the end when i cut it.. anyway i need to pull it apart and check it out because I havn't been able to get the Ninja flex into the tube since my first attempt.
     
  18. adepino

    adepino Member

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    I went ahead and just bought some NinjaFlex. Whats a good way to purge the hotend of old filament? This time its PLA. I saw somewhere, a suggestion to semi-heat the extruder to where the filament is not melted, but warm enough to pull it out the top and it would remove the entire amount stuck down in there. It looked easy in the video I watched, but I haven't gotten it to work that easily yet. I don't remember what temp was used, so I tried about 130, and it seemed to be a tad too warm. Is there another way to more easily get all the material out before loading a new material? When I swap from PLA to ABS I haven't had to worry about it because those are both hard materials and I just push it all out with the next filament, but loading NinjaFlex, it doesn't want to push out the PLA very well even with the little tube installed to guide the filament in.
     
  19. adepino

    adepino Member

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    Ok, so my print started out great, theeennnn it went downhill from there....If you notice, the bottom half of the print looks nice and smooth, then at that halfway point it just got sloppy from there as if it was having a hard time fusing together. You can even see small holes all throughout the bad half. Is it just because its so flexible that the higher it goes, the more it pushes around the part? i used 220C - 30C - 40mm/s. Is that too fast maybe? Im going to try 25mm/s next.
     

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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have not had any issues as long as I removed the filament (by opening the extruder feed and pulling it back out) while the hotend was hot. It all comes out. Worst case use a strip of nylon rather than PLA or ABS as your cleaning filament that you feed down and then pull back.

    I think @Printed Solid sells some cleaning strips as well.
     

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