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Flexplate system for the R2 Printer

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by tkoco, Aug 2, 2019.

  1. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    I wanted to cover a few points which haven't really been documented. I purchased the R2 Flexplate System from https://partsbuilt.com . While the instructions touched on important points of the installation, they focus on the kit itself and don't have a holistic view. Of course, read the instructions which come with the kit.

    So, here goes:
    1. You should remove the print bed from the R2 printer.
    2. Install the kit on a sturdy table. (since you will be doing some serious pressing to seat the various parts)
    3. Remove the factory installed Buildtak from the print bed.
    4. Clean the exposed surface with 91% isopropyl alcohol as you will get finger prints on the print bed as you remove the Buildtak
    5. After removing the film from the magnet assembly (per the kit instructions), very carefully line up the magnet piece to the print bed before pressing it into place. The magnet piece is precisely cut and leaves zero room for misalignment. If you misaligned the magnet assembly, one or two edges will not seat properly. Use the pry tool which came with the R2 printer to carefully loosen the magnet assembly from the print bed and try again.
    6. Carefully align the Buildtak sheet to the flexible steel sheet. While alignment is not critical, it is best to get the alignment as good as you can the first time!
    7. Reinstall the print bed into the printer.
    When all is done, the new printing surface will be around 1mm higher than the previous surface. So redo the bed leveling. The procedure is posted in the R2 Troubleshooting forum. Do not assume that you only have to set the Z Offset calibration. At the minimum, do the Z Offset and Bed Calibration wizards.

    And if you are wondering what the 2 red-orange disks are for, in a word - potholder. They serve the same function as a potholder does in the kitchen (preventing your fingers / hand from being burned).
     
    #1 tkoco, Aug 2, 2019
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2019
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  2. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I change my buildtak about every 3 weeks. I use Zonyee from Amazon. I spray painted the aluminum with Barbecue paint before installing the buildtak (zonyee), this makes taking it off sooo much easier.
     
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  3. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Update:
    In Step 6, when placing down the new Buildtak sheet, be very careful to not have any air bubbles under the Buildtak sheet. If you see air bubbles, carefully lift one corner of the Buildtak sheet past the air bubbles area and work out the air bubbles as you re-seat the Buildtak sheet.
     
  4. Kevin Bruckert

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    Does anyone know if this will work with the v1 heated bed?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While I am not the reference (@tkoco is the point person) I would imagine the answer is "yes"
    He can give us a definitive answer.
     
  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    I don't see any reason why it would not fit a V1 bed. The differences between V1 and V2 print beds has to do with the power connection at the rear of the print bed. The print area remains the same.

    Be careful when lining up the new magnet matrix to the bed surface. The fit is very tight and a slight misalignment will keep the matrix from seating properly to the print bed.
     
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  7. albert3d

    albert3d Member

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    Good tip. Also, Buildtak slashed their prices the end of last year on their flex systems. So you can get the R2 flex system now for $66.50 instead of $95. Even Partsbuilt cut their prices down to $74.95. Not sure if the ones from Buildtak say Robo on them like the ones from Partbuilt, but for $8, I'd take the savings. :) Been thinking of getting one. Is it worth it over just using the stock setup?
     
  8. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I have a problem with the Flexplate system. My parts wind up curved on the bottom. They are 44mm wide and have a .2mm curve. This does not happen on other beds.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Interesting problem. Is the magnet matrix fully seated to the print bed?
    An observation / question: Is the 0.2 mm the gap at the edge as demonstrated by your posted image?
    Another question: Is the auto-level G-code in Octoprint still activated?

    Question: What is the objective of the Flexplate mod? Answer: to help get models easily released from the print bed.

    It's goal is not to be extremely level. For that, I would have to recommend your article: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/micro-porous-glass-bed-install.23727/

    Glass surfaces excel at being very flat. If your printing goal is dimensional accuracy, then the Flexplate mod would not be a good choice.
     
    #9 tkoco, Feb 2, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2020
  10. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I do not use auto level, I do not see the point. The .2mm is measured on a flat plate with a shim measurement gauge. I would see a .2mm difference at the start of the print, but the pint start looks perfect. The plate appears to be fully seated, I did a dozen separate prints, each with the same results. Not noticed till later. Some prints removed hours after completion.
     
  11. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The Flexplate mod does not guarantee the spec of flatness which you are looking for. I ran into the same issue with the print bed of my C2 printer and I needed a really flat print bed surface. The only cure was to add a glass plate to the top of the print bed to meet the needed flatness specification. You can read about it here: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/the-really-flat-print-bed.23322/

    With my R2 printer, getting the models off of the print bed has a higher priority than the flatness of the print bed surface. If print bed flatness should ever become the priority for me, I would probably buy a second print bed and do the glass plate mod to get the necessary flatness specification.

    Of course, you will have to decide which aspect is the needed priority.
     
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  12. Kevin Bruckert

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    OK, so I've got it figured out. For the V1 bed, you need to remove both the PEI sheet as well as the four metal "plates" that surround the PEI sheet. These are also affixed via adhesive. This will reveal the screws themselves, but also allows the Flexplate magnetic base to fit cleanly in the bed.
     
    #12 Kevin Bruckert, Feb 3, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
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  13. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Thank you for the feedback. It will certainly help other folks who have a V1 print bed and wish to install the Flexplate mod.
     
  14. Kevin Bruckert

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    I'll post up pictures tomorrow, as well as full details of how it came out. :)
     
  15. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    @Lance Weston , here is a suggestion. Why not remove the Flexplate surface and substitute a glass plate (with clamps). Then do a print bed preheat to get the glass plate to the desired temperature before printing.
     

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