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Geofs R2

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Geof, Oct 6, 2017.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    mind you in a totally stock R2 I printed the majority of the build plate on the R2 with PLA with no warping ;)
     
  2. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    If PLA is warping something horrible is going on anyway, though.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You'd be suprised the amount of people I've heard say the "r2 is unusable with PLA" lol

    no heatcreep, no warp/adhesion issues. 20 hr prints x 8 so far :D
     
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson (⌐■_■)
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    PLA gets a bum rap. 90% of what we print is PLA and if we are doing prototyping it is always PLA. The finish part might be something else, but why waste it...
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson (⌐■_■)
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    Yea, that is a heat problem every time or bad filament. That bit me once.
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Heat problems seem like the plague with people and the R2. I am beginning to think that if they do a temperature tower they would be suprised at the results :D .

    Yea PLA for prototypes, cosplay, trinkets...when people want something cheap lol. We run alot of it and alot of co polys, ABS and polycarbonate. Hell I still use PLA for my pachinko mechanical parts (4 year old parts are still holding up to every day play just fine in my non climate controlled garage :D )
     
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  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe you need to print a vanity object with needless retraction settings a dozen times like a certain Youtuber did.
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    :D I dont think I'd have those problems. seems to not have those issues with PLA at the moment. Also without running their settings I dont think I could mimmic their issues.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo ☚ (<‿<)☚
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    I am not having heat creep issues either. I am not a fan of the heatbreak used in Hexagon extruders. It is not the most efficient heatbreak design. But I also found that leaving off the front cover for the extruder has a measureable impact on temperature.
     
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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I removed the front plate because it annoyed me visually lol. I perfer to see the hotend while its printing without a big "shadow" in my way. The plate does get quite warm if the hotend isn't positioned just perfect and acts as a heatsink. I likely wont be putting it back on until I finish my redesign of a cooling set up that I like.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo ☚ (<‿<)☚
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    I am not very far with redesigning the fan shroud. I did model the OEM shroud. It is not 100% exact but it is based on actual measurements from the Robo supplied fan shroud.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I had to stop due to having to run the machines, including the R2 to stay up on the orders. Wasn't expecting that and am glad its performing well lol.
     
  13. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    If you want to experience heat creep, try ColorFabb PLA/PHA. Wasn't able to get through a Benchy without a partial clog until I started leaving the door open and turning off the heat bed after a few layers.
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thats what I heard. That and polysmooth. I have a spool of each. Will work them through shortly. Where do you notice the jam from heat creep?
     
  15. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    I didn't find it visually, as I was pretty squeamish about fiddling with the printer too much back then. It manifested as a partial clog once it got to the bits with more retraction, so I suspect it was forming a plug where it feeds in and out of the hotend. A cold pull always cleared it.

    Happy to run some tests and send some pictures next week if you can't reproduce it on your machine.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Sounds good. Will give it a go. Did you notice the cold end being warm?
     
  17. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    That... would have been a smart thing to check. :oops:
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    lol. No worries I'll give it a shot and find out. If the cold end is getting hot then @WheresWaldo or I will have a fix with a 30mm fan mod (one of us will find some time at some point lol)
     
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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Update:
    I have ran : Taulman 910, colorfabb XT, NGEN, PLA (hatchbox, foxsmart, zyltech, no name china stuff, polymaker and colorfabb), PETG, Colorfabb HT, Bronzefill, Brassfill, woodfill, corkfill and semiflex with no issues. My machine is completely stock with the only changes being Acceleration lowered to 400 and jerk lowered to 7. I did these pretty much from the get go. I use S3D as my slicer and print via gcode loaded into octoprint.

    As an update to failed items:

    My power cord for my raspberry pi failed (shorted). After replacing it both the Pi and touchscreen were dead. a new Pi from the shelf and a touch screen (amazon) are installed. Machine is running. For the Pi power supply I had a old phone charger, stripped the insulation and used the black and red wires (power/ground), the other wires were cut flush and taped. Touchscreen thread in troubleshooting.
     

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