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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by colton81, Mar 18, 2017.
As requested... the picture of my customized bed.
As you've guessed, the two with the white insulation are for the heating circuit and the assumption is that the remaining two are to a thermistor.
As for location, it looks like the bed power comes from a pair of pins in a connector that's reasonably below the 'r' in the stenciled "robo" text on the board. They're marked in a collection: "5V, FAN2, FAN1, BED". I have no easy guess as to where the thermistor should be connected. I don't know if the R2 includes the same Robo board but this might help if someone could check theirs.
Honestly, though, even though that's marked "bed", it's possible given the size of those pins that this is the one for the thermistor. Perhaps the power for the bed is on those green connectors near the corner. I'd guess that the two-pin unused green connector next to the used one is for the non-included second hotend. That would leave two four-pin green connectors for something with a lot more power.
Somebody with an R2 help us out here... (@mark tomlinson) That black pair of wires shown as connected to "S, -" next to FAN1 on an R2, is that the thermistor for the bed?
I think before I went through all the trouble of trying to hook up a heatbed I'd look into the firmware and ensure you are able to make the changes needed to enable the heatbed and set the safetys. Wouldnt do much good getting all the hardware hooked up if you hit a roadblock on that end.
@OutsourcedGuru You would likely have better luck tagging someone with a R2 in on the conversation that you know. Most with a R2 dont read anything in the other sections.
@WheresWaldo might have an opportunity to look.
Without taking the actual wiring harness apart, here is my educated guess, those all black wired two connector wires go to the bed thermistor and do not power the heated bed, the IDC connector contains the heater power wires and is connected under the bed to a pogo board. The pogo pins are arranged in a 2-2-2 arrangement, the outer two sets are ganged together to, most likely, provide enough current to the heated bed. So the outside sets are bed plus and minus. Since it is a pure resistive load it doesn't really matter which is plus and which is minus. The wires connected to those two sets of two pogo pins are connected to the green connector on the Robo controller board. The other two spare wires that join the harness from the two pin BED connector, pictured above, are a direct connection to the two remaining pogo pins connected to the thermistor. Again a pure resistive load so it doesn't matter which is plus and which is minus.
So, in short, @PatrickB would need to attach the two insulated/beefier wires to a pair of connectors along that green block and the two smaller red wires go to the "S, -" pair more in the center of the Robo board. And @Geof suggests there are more things to think about like the firmware and I think he's hinting at a configuration.h file change or similar.
Yes (this is an example of a short answer that fully addresses your question)
Thanks all for your help! I will try and tell you!
Any updates on this? I’d like to put a heated bed on my C2 as well.
I've recently installed a ruby nozzle and I'm printing some NylonX that has a bad habit of warping on the edges. I've made several print adjustments to try to get it to stick better. Instead of cutting corners and doing tricks to make it stick, a heated bed is probably the answer. I'm not ready to pull the trigger on an R2 just yet! Considering the cost and the headaches involved in modding a C2, maybe getting the R2 is just what I need to do....
Any chance of sharing the design files for the aluminum replacement parts? Looks great- working with a C2 for a school, and I'm not entirely happy with no heated bed.
@Byron Ferguson if you take the C2 to a local machine shop they can certainly price you making that aluminum plate. It appears that they have drilled out (blind hole) the aluminum for the magnetic cups (can get those on Aliexpress dirt cheap). Then you'd need a heater and a use a control side of the C2 mainboard (if there is one there- I believe there is as its the same as the R2) then configure the firmware for the C2 to know there is a heatbed and BAM! Heatbed though without some serious tweaking and porting you wouldn't have the option to heat the bed from the touch screen. It would be more of a hack job unless you got Robo to help you out in configuring the R2 firmware to work with the smaller screen and wizards and the such.
I've played with Marlin quite a bit and the only thing I'm guessing you would need to change in the R2 firmware for the C2 is the bed size. Everything else should be the same. You may also need to change the probing points if this is enabled in the firmware for the infrared probe. I can take a look if you want. I've not got a C2 or an R2 at the moment.. hoping to get one soon.