1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Answered heated bed max temp

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Zen, Apr 22, 2015.

  1. Zen

    Zen Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    8
    I have edited the firmware, but realistically the heated bed will not get above about 90c. Has anybody got a robo that will go up to 110c for the heated bed. I have noticed that it really makes a difference when printing ABS for bed adhesion and first layer appearance.

    Thanks
     
    #1 Zen, Apr 22, 2015
  2. Fart_Plume

    Fart_Plume Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Messages:
    98
    Likes Received:
    26
    I only run mine at 80*c for abs. For adhesion I used Elmers washable purple glue sticks on the bed.
     
    #2 Fart_Plume, Apr 22, 2015
  3. Zen

    Zen Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    8
    Adhesion isn't really the problem, it will adhere at 90c , but in order to get a really smooth base layer at least on my other printer it works best at 110c. Would like to at least try it on this one. Any tips or mods to get it to heat better?
     
    #3 Zen, Apr 22, 2015
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    I have run mine at 110*. However with 12v for the power if you do the math (and @Mike Kelly has posted this a few times) you are at the edge of what the power supply can provide in terms of total watts. So, Your Mileage May Vary.

    I can't really see the need to go above 40-50 for PLA (and frankly it will work fine at zero). For ABS, yes the hotter the better, but you may have hit your limit at 90.


    *takes about 30 minutes just for the bed to get to this temp and stabilize for me. Then I can start the nozzle heating and do the print.
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Apr 23, 2015
  5. Zen

    Zen Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    8
    May need to post in the mod section, but has anybody upgraded the power supply in the latest version say to use dual extruders and such? If so a link to the PS would be great.

    Thanks
     
    #5 Zen, Apr 24, 2015
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    There is a thread where @Mike Kelly discussed upgrading it to 24v (which is the smarter way to go).

    There are some other things to watch out for, but cover your bases and this is the upgrade to do.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
  7. Zen

    Zen Member

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2015
    Messages:
    38
    Likes Received:
    8
    huh, I bought this one because it was 12 volts since parts seem easier to come by. Well may just live with it.
     
    #7 Zen, Apr 24, 2015
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Upgrading the P/S to 24v does not entail upgrading anything else. The heater will work (better) with 24v vs. 12v. You add an adapter to step DOWN the voltage for the arduino/ramps to 12v (they don't need 24v) and that is (largely)it.
    Read Mikes thread for more info.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,915
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    #9 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
    Mike Kelly likes this.
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,277
    Like mark said the only part I run off 24v is the kapton heater for the bed. Everything else is still on 12v
     
    #10 Mike Kelly, Apr 24, 2015

Share This Page