Hello all

Hello all, I just wanted to stop by and say hi to everyone! I got an email showing my printer has been shipped and will arrive Friday. I'm a NOOB so I know that I will have TONS of questions SOON.

 

Welcome! It's a hard one, but it's a fun ride.

 

Anything you can suggest for me to do when I receive my new printer...like a NOOB guide? Ö¿Ö

 

Install matter control: http://www.robo3dprinter.com/pages/robo3dsoftware

Install the Arduino IDE and driver library: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software#toc1

Watch this video to understand how auto-print leveling should look:
Read my thread which explains how this is performed, note a lot of what I talk about is already integrated: http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/robo3d-autolevel-via-mike-kelly.2574/

Watch this to kinda get an understanding of how to setup and run MatterControl. A lot of stuff in this is out of date till they release a new one:

If you really want to understand the printers guts I suggest watching the build videos:

Above all, keep calm A failure is only a failure if you don't learn anything from it.

 

I will watch all of this before Friday.

 

Mike are anyone does the R1 come with LED lights installed also?

 

The R1 has blue LED's

 

This is kind of not the best place to post this I suppose so hope I don't hijack this thread.

I just received my R1 on Monday, and my auto leveling doesn't work like that. Mine only does the front left, front right and back left corners. Not sure if this is a setting somewhere or what, but when you get yours and it isn't doing that just wanted you to be aware. My prints have been pretty good with this auto-leveling, right up to where the filament jams. I am working on figuring that one out now.

 

Thanks Brian, mine should be here today.

 

Very first things to do out of the box:

1. Go over each and every wire connection thouroughly and make sure they are tight and connected securely. Look for frayed wires and insulation.
2. Grab some tools and test every screw, bolt and nut for snugness. Check the set screws on the pulleys as well.
3. Test your belts for low guitar strum tightness.
4. Look for any cracks in the plastic parts as well.
5. Check your bearings for ease of motion and the threaded rods for lube.

Robo does a darn good job with their packing, but shipping companies always find a way to abuse packages and on the Robo3D, things tend to vibrate loose during shipping.

People are like little kids on their birthday when they get their printer and just want to plug it in and start printing right away.
It's tough for them to take the time, but worth it.
Doing this will drastically reduce initial printing issues as well as give you a firm baseline to start from.

 

Does the top of the robo come off easy to be able to check everything?

Is there a way to tension the belt to make them low guitar strum tightness?

What is the best lube to use on the rod, white lithium spray? How often should this be done?

Thanks for the tips, i will go over this unit today when I get home to make sure everything is in working order and not broken.

 

Mark so to tighten the X axis I will install new zip ties? Can I ask if you can submit a photo showing the zip ties and how to tighten work.
Sorry to ask, but I want to make sure everything is as it should be before I start printing.

 

Perfect picture, I will also install this today.

Thanks to everyone, if anyone has more NOOB help please add.

 

I don't know if it works, but a lot of people recommend "seasoning" the head. I kind of wish I would have done it with the first piece of filament I put into the printer, pasted an excerpt below from "Timrastall" on how to season a head.

2 - season the internal surfaces of the hot end with cooking oil. This might sound crazy but I've seen it work first hand with the Kraken. PLA is a sugar and molten sugars stick to bare metal like stainless steel, in the kitchen you prevent this by creating an oily patina on the metal surface by baking a thin layer of oil onto the surface. There's some science to this but I won't go into it here.
Simply dip the end of a piece of PLA (10mm or so) in canola oil or something similar, heat the hot end to about 180 degrees and insert the oily pla into the hot end, press it through with you fingers until it exits the nozzle then extract the oily pla, then push 50mm of unoiled PLA through. Repeat this as many times as you like, I had success just doing it once. The hot end will fizz and pop while you are doing this as you are effectively frying the pla, for me it smelt strongly of cooking donuts This is why you need to push an unoiled piece through to purge any excess oil.​

I didn't get any fizzing or poping when doing it so YMMV.

 

I have seen a lot of people talking about this and I will make sure this is done also before my 1st print.

You do put the filament through like you are loading the unit where the hobbed bolt is correct?

 

I may end up using all the knowledge I'm getting and make a TOTAL NOOB thread with credit to everyone helping!

Other questions.

PLA- Temp, Heated Bed or Not, What to put on the bed (Glue Sticks, Hairspray, ETC)
ABS- Temp, Heated Bed or Not, What to put on the bed (Glue Sticks, Hairspray, ETC)

 

I have been using some 3M painters tape (blue tape) on the bed with my PLA prints. My biggest problem so far has been too much adhesion not a lock of sticking. I also like it because it keeps the print bed clean, which probably wont matter after it gets a little older

I haven't tried ABS printing yet.