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Solved Here I am again... Print head dragging accross painters tape.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by robert albrecht, Feb 27, 2019.

  1. robert albrecht

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    So everybody has helped me with, cracked print bed,bad thermistor and a few other things. I think I have one more issue I need help with and then I think I will be good. Because of my chipped print bed, I am using an extra pane of glass with blue tape. Now when I home everything the print head is scraping across the tape. I haven't started a print yet, because I don't want to ruin my machine.. Any ideas?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Adjust your Z offset?
     
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  3. robert albrecht

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    That's what I am thinking. But I dont have my laptop hooked up. Could this be done with my smart controller? (Riprap)

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
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  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Its in the menu somewhere, you can change the offset in either the 4 line or full graphics controller.
     
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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I always suggest your z offset be put in your slicer gcode start block

    G28, ; home all axis
    M565 -1.0 ; set z offset -1.0 is variable
    G29 ; autolevel dance

    Yours can vary from this, just an example. Once it homes and autolevels your M565 sets the "gap" between the nozzle and the bed for your first layer. You will need to adjust it for your new set up.
     
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  6. mark tomlinson

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    Yes, @Geof has nailed it -- for the autoleveling offset it is best set there.
    A non-autoleveling, global offset you can put where ever you like (but that is not helping the autoleveling).
     
  7. robert albrecht

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    So done this way. It will take the new z offset into consideration when ever I start a new print (even if I am using Astroprint for my primary printing software?). I am guessing I can user MC to make these adjustments? Then switch back to Astroprint? If I want to go further away from the print bed do I go + or - ?
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    :D -.067 is closer than -1.0. -1.5 is further than -1.0 :D 0 is on the glass (technically). Assuming I'm still doing this right lol, its been a few years since I've had firmware with the M565 offset and may have it backwards lol.

    I cant answer any questions about Matter Control. Havent used it since 2013-2014 era but somewhere in your start scripts for your slicer you should be able to add the M565, then the gcode for me would go on a SD card and into my printer. If your using astroprint then slice, send to astroprint and that sends to the printer :D

    Some people (at least with octoprint) use the scripts in Octoprint/Astroprint. The only printers i have that use those I dont do it that way. Everything is in my Slicer and all octoprint does is carry the gcode to the printer and let me monitor :D Adjust your setup to whatever you prefer :D

    Edit: Just dont have scripts in both places or you'll do everything twice- no no
     
  9. robert albrecht

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    Ughhh so confused LOL. With my printer should I be using only one interface exclusively as to not confuse the printer? (I have a riprap smart controller hooked directly up to my printer that it looks like I can adjust the z offset). But from looking around in Astroprint, If I change the slicer from Cura to Slic3r I can adjust the z off set from there. But is this changing the z offset per project only? What I am trying to figure out is. When using the riprap smart controller. I use the auto home function that's when I am getting the hotend dragging across my blue tape due to the added thickness of the extra pane of glass and tape. So I am trying to figure out how to tell the printer that there is added thickness this way when I use the auto home it doesn't shred the tape. ( I am sorry if I am not articulating what I am having an issue with.) Like I said I could be confusing two different functions). Lets put it this way. With no changes to any settings (re: hot end height). When I currently auto home using smart controller it scraps across the tape. But when I actually print something it seems to print ok..

    "Do you understand the words that are coming out of my mouth?"
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You have two issues --
    1) A slicer that turns the STL into GCode and that is where you want to set the startup GCode block (normally)
    2) A print controller like AstroPrint or OctoPrint where they (normally) take GCode files already sliced and deliver them to the printer

    You can (at least with OctoPrint) also slice inside it, but that is not really a great solution unless you love their built-in slicer (an older version of Cura). I have no real knowledge of what/how Astroprint handles those details, but IIRC from the last time I looked at it it was very similar to OctoPrint
     
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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You can use your printer anyway you want, the printer wont care, just dont give it to seperate sets of start up scripts

    This is a global offset. I suggest you dont use. Use the start up scripts like shown above :D

    Ok I do understand what you mean. The autohome on the controller probes X, Y and Z. Literally puts them at home. You'll need to lift the Z manually after a home to prevent it from scraping the glass. I dont use the controller to home the machine unless I specifically need to, the start up scripts handle homing and autolevel (including your offset) and will take into account the added thickness (the machine doesn't care if there is 2 inches of build plate height added- when it probes the bed that is "Home"

    I'm hoping this is all making sense?

    If your printing good, just dont auto home with the controller :D
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, the smart controller is a totally different beast and controlled directly by the firmware and flash EPROM defaults. You can't control the autoleveling offset that way (OK, you probably could with firmware edits, but leave that to the slicers)
     
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  13. robert albrecht

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    Ok. I have gotten into the habit of auto homing before each print. This isn't really necessary. Got it just don't auto home and I should be good...

    "Hallelujah holy &*!@, where's the Tylenol" 5 points if you know the reference. (with out google fu)
     
    #13 robert albrecht, Feb 28, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019
  14. WheresWaldo

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    @robert albrecht

    Auto level and auto home are two different things, you should auto home before EVERY print (G28) but auto level (G29) may not be necessary if your bed is mechanically as level as you can get it and your Z offset is close to 100% accurate. Christmas will move to June before Auto-Homing becomes unnecessary.
     
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  15. robert albrecht

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    Now it seems like I am getting contradicting advice LOL
     
    #15 robert albrecht, Feb 28, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2019
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I was just meaning to not autohome on the controller. Just let the G28 in the software start up scripts home your machine :D Waldos got it nailed. It has to home, but not via the controller manually by you :D
     

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