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hotend hits the bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by MGF, Feb 22, 2020.

  1. MGF

    MGF New Member

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    For the past few days I have been unable to print.
    at the beginning of the printing, when the printer calibrates, the first point, the second, the third, the fourth and the ciquieme are good, but the sixth the hotend goes down to the bed and hits it until that an error appears. each time it bends the bed.
    I ve change nothing, I try with some old gcode files which were good, but always the same troubleshooting.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What error?
    Need the specific error please.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Feb 22, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
  3. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Which printer model?
     
  4. MGF

    MGF New Member

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    It si R2. when the hotend is center left position, it descends and sinks into the bed. the bed becomes deformed and the error appears. 6E67C59A-B6E2-4B16-A4EE-9B12FC40F7A6.jpeg AD402FBB-30E1-4B41-9311-FC93CDFC2B82.jpeg
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The connection interrupted is normally one of a few things as discussed in a number of threads here (@tkoco -- we probably should add this to the FAQ)

    BAD SD card or image:
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...-new-image-wont-work.21220/page-2#post-128326

    Bad connection between the Raspberry Pi and the control board (loose connector or bad)
    Bad connection between the control board and the heated bed (if you have the Pogo pins connection to the heated bed that is the main suspect). You can try disabling the heated bed and see if that makes the error go away to help isolate the problem.

    Check all of that and let us know.

    It is a really crappy, generic error that is not specific enough to help an end-user sort out what is going on.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Feb 23, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2020
  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The level sensor on the backside of the extruder calibrates itself to the front left corner where the bed surface is "Buildtak". Based on your uploaded images, the point where the hot end crashes into the print bed is the area where you have "blue painter's tape" applied. The IR reflective property of blue painter's tape is different from Buildtak. Thus when the auto-level routine comes to the blue tape area, it cannot see the surface reflection ( calibrated on Buildtak ) and thus CRASH!
    Solution is simple: either use Buildtak 100% or blue painter's tape 100%. I recommend Buildtak as the software routine expects Buildtak.

    You can purchase additional Buildtak sheets for the R2 printer from https://www.partsbuilt.com

    BTW, the connection error is most likely from the hot end crashing into the print bed and affecting the connector at the back of the print bed.
     
    #6 tkoco, Feb 23, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2020
  7. MGF

    MGF New Member

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    Thanks, i put bleu tape everywhere and all go right.
     
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  8. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    I was doing some tests with a new Buildtak (non-original) and have the same issue.
    The surface probably doesn't reflect the IR sensor.
    So I put a piece o white paper on that spot and the IR worked.
    Now I'm not sure if using sandpaper on buildtak will solve this or is an issue related to the material itself.
    Basically, not sure if the problem is the color, the surface or the material.
     
  9. Yopz3d

    Yopz3d New Member

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    Hey I was hoping you could clarify, do you have experience using the parts built build tack as well without ir sensor issues? (I’ve seen a few complaints like the ones mentioned by other users here but cannot fathom the idea that the company would have made such a fatal design error) I purchased my buildtack from parts built and was hoping to rig it up this weekend as a simple parts replacement but will look into other options if it’s not worth my time.
    Thanks this forum is a godsend, if it all checks out I’ll try to document the flex plate and build tack install procedure


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    Actually, so far the only buildtak that worked right with the IR sensor was the one from partsbuilt.
     
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  11. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The point of the discussion is that the reflective properties ( of Buildtak vs blue painter's tape ) are very different. Ditto for well used Buildtak with plastic micro-debris vs a fresh Buildtak surface. The micro-debris on the surface alters the reflective property. By analogy, the reflective property of a snow surface is different from an icy surface although both surfaces are close relatives of each other.
    So, if you calibrate the distance on one type of surface and then change that surface for subsequent measurements, it is a given that the calibrations will be wrong.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I use a black painters tape on my C2 for that very reason :)
    Well, that is not entirely true because I no longer autolevel it but it was why I started with the black tape.
     
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  13. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Agreed. So long as all of the surface is identical, then measurements will be consistent.
     

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