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How accurate is your printer?

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by WheresWaldo, May 13, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Will also be a good test since the Volcano is now running on my C2 LCD Clone w/OctoPrint :)

    I added that C2 clone LCD controller and no longer have it attached with a USB umbilical.
     
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  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    My Ultimaker is the first done. Polysmooth pla, .2 layers 100mm/s, .2 and up spins free. 20170518_143929.jpg

    edit: Fixed my inability to spell lol
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sweet :)

    I actually expect that the Volcano one will be a better/more functional one that the C2 simply because that machine is far more dialed in

    But... 0.8mm nozzle... ;)
     
    #43 mark tomlinson, May 18, 2017
    Last edited: May 18, 2017
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    it is quite the good test. I model everything with .2 clearance so nice to see that is correct vs just guessing and remodeling until I got it right lol. Going on one Robo, the Ditto Pro and a Zortrax still (and re running with the same settings except 50mm/s on the UM) lol
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Beats printing spinners or Le bébé groot
     
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    yes indeedy. Plus good display piece for when people ask how accurate the machine is between moving parts (happens alot more than I thought would)
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, here it is on the 0.8 nozzle with the volcano.

    Large Nozzle 2.jpg

    large nozzle 1.jpg

    Oddly, same thing -- three largest gaps work fine :/
     
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  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Anyone gonna beat 0.2mm ? lol

    Actually somone on page one said 0.15 spun free for them.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That jives though with the amount of free-space/clearance we usually leave in a model that we expect to not fuse.
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea i usually did .2 for like a lid or something. slides tight but fits.
     
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  11. m4r1n5

    m4r1n5 Member

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    That'd be me and it looks like I'm in the lead still. #R1+Bawesome

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     
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  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Probably underextruding.

    Print the negative space test piece and see how it does.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:533472/#files
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is actually a good observation. This is a model where under extrusion would work in your favor :)
     
    #53 mark tomlinson, May 18, 2017
    Last edited: May 18, 2017
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, if he is not using Marlin 1.1.1 and never modified the Robo supplied firmware he would definitely be under extruding.
     
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  15. m4r1n5

    m4r1n5 Member

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    My R1 Plus is stock with no firmware modification and I use simplify3d. If it is under extruding , it's been working for all my prints using PLA and pet G. I just finished printing all the parts for the Voltron black lion period once I put it together I'll post it. But I will try the negative prints and see how that comes out

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     
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  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Looks good to me. but what do I know

    I like how nice Geof's ultimaker print looks but had the same results as the rest of us.
     
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  17. m4r1n5

    m4r1n5 Member

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    If he's printing like that at 100mm/sec I'd be ok with the .05mm difference. I can't really go past 60mm/s without worrying

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk
     
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  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @m4r1n5 Please take no offense at my statement, it is just fact, the 723.32 steps used in stock Robo firmware under extrudes, it is just a little bit but it does none the same. The only conclusion I can come to is that Robo intended for it to under extrude to make up for other flaws in the R1. Note, I try to be impartial and realistic with my statements about the R1, it's a good printer especially the R1+, especially at the refurb price, but there are others that are better and cheaper (if you are buying brand new). That is also why I invested the time to modify Marlin 1.1.1 for the R1 series of printers, and why I have invested time in modding my R1, to make a good printer a better printer.

    Even with all the mods I have done about 60 mm/s is as fast as I can go before I show an unacceptable level of artifacts in the surface finish.
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    100mm/s on a Ultimaker is pretty standard :D I redid one at 60 mm/s and its still stuck at .15 (can probably break free but thats cheating, I'm going for direct off the build plate does it turn). Their nice machines but not the end all be all :D just reliable and quick ;)
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Geof, Angus said he had to break free 0.15 using his tool from both sides. So breaking it free seems acceptable.
     
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