How to change the nozzle?

Am I right in assuming that the late Robo3D's use the hexagon hot end?

I'm thinking of getting some spare nozzle's as I will attempt printing XT-CF20 soon: http://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568318-hexagon-1-75mm-nozzle-0-4mm

However, as I look at the nozzle of my printer, It doesn't look like I could just twist it off and remove it, the end of the hotend is covered in a black material, the nozzle seems pretty integrated

Am i missing something?

 

Thanks for the info, after watching a youtube video, I understand how it's set up

Is there a specification for the Hexagon nozzle?

I've researched a bit but came up empty

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Repr...ead-stainless-steel-nozzle-0/32438180902.html

There are some stainless steel nozzles from China, however I can't be sure whether they will fit the Hexagon

 

Good to know, because almost all the nozzles I find are for the E3D

 

You just can't use the hexagon nozzles on the E3D but you can use E3D nozzles on the hexagon

 

I'm curious... why can't the hexagon nozzles be used on the E3D?

 

The hexagon nozzles are longer

 

I had a hunch that was why

In that case, Wouldn't putting an E3D nozzle on the Hexagon possibly cause jams, and fill that extra area with melted filament and render the hotend incapable of receiving a regular length nozzle again?

It would have been great if nozzle dimensions were advertised by makers and sellers, I think they are mostly M6 screws, but it's unclear what length they are etc.

 

This is backwards. The hexagon nozzles are shorter by about 1.5mm

No this won't happen. You just leave the extra room on the heatbreak side, not the nozzle side

 

Thanks for the info, that makes much more sense, otherwise the nozzle-emptiness would screw things up IMO

 

I'm not really sure what you mean by nozzle emptyness, but having the tip of the nozzle further from the heater block would drop it's temp a bit. Probably negligible amounts but still

 

By the way, my heater section of the hot-end moves freely, is it normal?

 

Nope, Tighten the set screw on it.

 

It seems, hotend is tights, however the filament guide moves freely, basically, when I move the hotend, the filament turns with it, however, it's just a Z-axis movement, not a X/Y wobble, is it normal?

I failed to remove the nozzle by the way, didn't push it too much, 8-hexagon tool couldn't grab it

 

I'm not following.

 

(A) So the hotend wiggles on the Z-axis, however it's tightly connected to it's rod, so the rod moves within the cooler section, with this rod, the filament moves too, there is no visible way to tighten this assembly

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(B) This might be related, I was having PLA jams, after making the thermistor push into the heating block, the reading values started to increase, but with these values, jams started to increase too

So I think I have a heat cycle related issue, should I just leave the thermistor to be free inside the heater block, like in the original hexagon way?
(Currently, it pushes into the heater block a bit with the aid of a zip-tie to the heater's cable, wrapped with kapton tape, previously it was able to move freely)
(I'm 99% sure it's a heat cycle related issue, because once I clear the tip with the aid of a wire, the remaining PLA just drips like fluid)

 

You'd probably come across more clearly with notated pictures

 

Here is the situation, the blue parts move, everything is fastened, the filament moves with the blue parts, so only the cooling block stays in place


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I managed to complete some prints with PLA by setting the temp to 240C, and 255C with bronzefill

All my jams seems to be on the tip, when I nudge the tip with a wire, the clog just disappears

With these information, I think my thermistor isn't reading accurate values, by setting 240C, I probably achieved ~190C by my guess - regardless of the hotend issues, I think the issue is with the Thermistor

So my PLA jams are due to the temperature being low, at least this is my theory

If I was in US, I would have definitely purchased an E3DV6 by now