How to change the nozzle?

Does yours look like the image above exactly or does it look more like this?



If it's like your picture you'll need a new nozzle since that particular version has no way of tightening down the heat break, hence why it's rotating.

If it's like my picture find and tighten down that set screw.

Thermistors generally don't read high. Something else might be wrong.

 

The picture isn't mine, my printer is in an extremely poor-lit room, so I had to borrow someone else's picture (also the Robo3D enclosure makes it extremely hard for me to work on the printer, even taking a photo is a pain)

Thanks a lot for the info, I removed the cooling fan, found out that there was no screw there, added a screw, put back the cooling fan, could only put 1/4 of the cooling fan screws, used some hot-glue for added stabilisation (the screw top is like ~2mm, yet it clashes with the cooling fan)

So there was never a screw there, I luckily found an M2(?) screw that's just the right size for the spot

Should there be a screw there? - Could my PLA problems be related to this

 

Thanks for all your help <3 - I hope this solves most of my issues, I've been modifying slicer settings at extremes to get prints, hopefully I can dial down on some of them, maybe get some more retraction going on

I might just remove my top too at one point, it doesn't seem to do much

My machine was probably one of the rotten-ish eggs, I had a lot of issues like these along the way, the top rods were all dislodged for example when I got the machine - and now this issue ...

I really wish there was a complete spare parts inventory, just noticed that one of my bed-rod holder plastics is cracked, which is probably the cause of the levelling issues I've been experiencing since inception

I'm considering getting an E3DV6 and becoming more hands-on with the device, yet with issues like these, I have a hunch I'm nearing the end of lifetime of the device, and with no spare parts, an E3DV6 might be a waste

(The Bed/Y-homing also started to make an out-of-boundary hit/crash today, it just hits the end at the last-row of the auto-levelling probes, probably going to create a thread for that issue soon after doing a bit of research)

 

I'm sure there's nothing wrong with your printer a little research, creativity, and patience won't solve

The E3D v6 is a great hot end

 

After clogging the nozzle for good, I ended up having to remove it, it wasn't easy, but I'm glad I was forced to do it

Spent hours working on it with a dremel torch, it seemed like most of the clogging was from my recent brassfill trials, so I'm not too optimistic about this cleaning solving my problems

As a 0.4mm tip cleaner, regular generic resistor wire works wonders: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e3/3_Resistors.jpg (I had to push it, very slowly and repeatedly)

There are a lot of thermo-metalurgical stuff going on with hot-end's, I think connecting the cooler caused the latest jam, as the extreme high temps I was using was only manageable with the heat moving upwards, connecting the cooler prevented that pressure based feeding dynamic (my theory)

There is a tiny hope that after this cleaning, I will be able to print at regular temperatures with regular methods - assuming my thermistor is accurate - and assuming I didn't bend the hotend while removing the nozzle

 

Well I broke my Hexagon hot-end while cleaning, so an E3D V6 it is at this point

I also noticed my feeder teeth is worn out, so I have a lot of replacements to make

I would appreciate any advice at this point, I'm probably going to create a separate thread to find the printer parts themselves, some spare screws/components etc. would be good, there are also components that I definitely need to change, like the feeder rod I mentioned

So depressing