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Installed E3D

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by mark tomlinson, Jan 10, 2014.

  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Team E3D has. You need a thermocouple adapter for it to work.
     
  2. EddyBorja

    EddyBorja New Member

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    Where can I contact them, are they the same ones who made E3D?

    I'm using a thermocouple amplifier AD595 breakout board already.
     
  3. Kevin Bruckert

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    Ok, finally finished everything. It's taken longer because I messed up a little, and I had a broken heat element. I've verified the new heat element works break, but won't bring it up to the required 300c until tomorrow night, when the copper silicone gasket maker has completely cured. A little bit more wire harness cleanup (attaching it to the top, mostly) and I'll be done. Then, I just need to turn it into a full, detailed set of instructions with video, as well as a full list of parts I used, and what the minimum set of parts/tools are to do the job.
     
  4. Mike Morell

    Mike Morell New Member

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    Hey all,
    I just installed the E3D v5 on my printer, and wired it all correctly as far as I know, but the tip will not heat up at all. I used all the parts that came with the hotend, rewired everything to the printer fine, but it will not heat up. Does the heater cartridge need to be wired a certain direction (positive to ground, where the old one was connected) or does that not change with the tip?
    Or do I need to flash the new firmware before it will even heat up?
    Any help will be greatly appreciated!
     
  5. Mike Morell

    Mike Morell New Member

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    Actually never mind. I got the tip working. Now where do I go to reflash the firmware? (or just edit the max temps). Ive seen different answers and melody's FAQ doesn't include specifics.
     
  6. Thor

    Thor Member

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  7. Mike Morell

    Mike Morell New Member

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    My e3d came without any kapton tape. And the only way to get it where I live is off ebay. What kind of cement would I use to keep the thermistor in? (And I am using the one that came with the printer. So I had to drill a bigger hole inside of the block.)
     
  8. Thor

    Thor Member

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    The ultimate would be firebrick mortar, but you could probably use Super Copper gasket (auto parts store) in a pinch.
    On my original Robo3D I used High-Temp Red. It still fell (err... was forcibly yanked) out when my "Lotus NightLight" came unglued from the bed and curled up into a hairball (which caused that to burn out the PTFE tube and melt the PEEK and... move me to the E3D).

    On my E3D, the sensor that came with it had no insulation (boo! hiss!), so I put some Teflon heatshrink on the leads. That made it stiff enough that when zip-tied to the plastic fan block it would stay put without any kind of cement. Plus I put my firmware patch in place so if it does fall/get yanked/fails again, the printer will shut down instead of trying to heat to infinity.... but other than me testing the firmware patch with a pair of tweezers, it seems content.
     
  9. Darkhunter12

    Darkhunter12 New Member

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    Hi Guys,
    I was doing some changing in wire-up and I broke my E3d V5 thermistor, I found my old stock head and I took out that thermistor will it work? I would need to make the hole in the E3d block bigger to facilitate for the robo stock thermistor, will I be able to just drill the hole bigger?
    And if everything is given the go a head I cannot remember what I have to change the thermistor settings back too as well.
    Thanks guys.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    answered this in one of the other (many) threads you posted this in.
    A new thread would have been a better approach.
     
  11. Darkhunter12

    Darkhunter12 New Member

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    Yes Thank you and sorry, needed an answer asap :)
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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