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Solved Issues with auto leveling, printing, Y axis stuttering?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sLpFhaWK, Dec 12, 2015.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Also, what are you using for your initial Z offset?
     
    #21 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Is the Y axis sorted out?
     
    #22 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  3. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    I am doing the paper leveling with the printer on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    #23 sLpFhaWK, Dec 13, 2015
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I'd suggest printer off to start with, but either way make sure that it is doing the 9-point auto leveling routine before it starts printing.

    If you are not using MatterControl make sure the startup GCode is similar to this:

    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-0.6 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism (yours will be different most likely. Test and adjust)*
    G29 ; run auto-level


    * more negative -> further from bed
     
    #24 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Heck for all I know you need that in MatterControl :)
    Don't use it, but I think there are configuration screens to enter some of that.

    Whatever the actual GCode sent to the printer should have something like that at the start.
     
    #25 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  6. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    ok so if the printer is off does how does one level it? I know the arduino gets power from usb so the switch in the back powers the stepper motors fans and light?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    #26 sLpFhaWK, Dec 13, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    By hand :)
    All you are doing is the X axis leveling (left to right) with a sheet of paper.
    You hold one threaded rod while turning the other one to adjust the nozzle where it needs to be.
    In the case of the paper level test you want just enough pressure on the sheet of paper to feel the resistance, but you can still move the paper. Do both sides a couple of times (back and forth) to make sure it is consistent (i.e. the same on both sides)
     
    #27 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is not something you need to do often, but if you have to move the printer around it is always a good starting point. After the shipping they go through it really needs to be done.
     
    #28 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  9. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Mark I think i have the leveling problem figured out, but now I have a clogged hot end and I just figured out how to take the hot end out but I have no way of unclogging it.. So i'm researching that issue out now.
     
    #29 sLpFhaWK, Dec 13, 2015
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can remove the brass nozzle (careful -- it needs to be done hot).
    Make sure you use two wrenches and try to avoid putting torque on the heat break (the small pipe that connects the upper and lower sections of the hotend).

    You might can unclog it by just running the temp up high.
     
    #30 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  11. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    So I am having an issue now printing, while facing the printer the z axis is higher on the left side than the right side, so on the left its wavy and on the right its a small bead, i'll attach a picture but I don't know how much you'll be able to tell..

    I had to scale it down due to file size limitations.
     

    Attached Files:

    #31 sLpFhaWK, Dec 13, 2015
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, do the paper leveling to make sure that the X is level side-to-side before you fire it up and let the auto level get involved.
    Then make certain it IS actually doing the 9-point auto leveling dance at the start.
     
    #32 mark tomlinson, Dec 13, 2015
  13. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    so the paper trick you say to do with the power off does that mean also unplug the USB cable as well so there's no power to the arduino? or just flip the switch in the back because I'm at my wits end here.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    #33 sLpFhaWK, Dec 13, 2015
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would only turn off the power switch. You just don't want the steppers powered.
     
    #34 mark tomlinson, Dec 14, 2015
  15. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    I had a friend over last night and we were messing with the printer for hours, we did the paper trick with the steppers off, and we noticed while turning the rods that there would be some discrepancies, sometimes the left rod would be higher than the switch and the switch wouldn't activate and the same on the right.

    I was watching this video from Novice Expert, and he is editing his firmware. How do I go about doing this on the plus? seeing I can't directly update it because Robo says not too, how do I download and tweak it to speed up the acceleration and change the stuff he tweaks for faster bed leveling?

     
    #35 sLpFhaWK, Dec 14, 2015
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can edit the firmware. You just need to contact Robo for the firmware first.
    In reality you don't :) but due to confusion with versions they initially did not want you do download and install the incorrect stuff.

    This is the correct one the one labled "Lead Screw Upgrade Firmware"
    Here:

    http://guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes

    That is the correct firmware for the R1+ (but feel free to contact Robo directly to confirm if you like).

    The changes referred to are probably in CONFIGURATION.H other instructions for updating the firmware are on that main page as well.
     
    #36 mark tomlinson, Dec 14, 2015
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You want to make sure you keep your copy of CONFIGURATION.H around for reference and if you ever directly update via MatterControl or the like your changes will be gone. So to preserve them you manually update (download the new version when available and merge in your changes). Frankly I am not of fan of updating the firmware because a new version is out. Make sure there is always a reason. Like in your case :)
     
    #37 mark tomlinson, Dec 14, 2015
  18. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Mark you've been a great help I hope I am almost to the point where I can print stuff. These past 2 days have been very troublesome and a major setback for someones intro into the hobby but with the resources on the forum it does help. I just wish they didn't put on the box PLUG AND PRINT it's as easy as that because it definitely isn't.

    Now back to the firmware, there is 3 on the link you sent, is there a way to pull off the configuration.h off the Arduino board that I have or no? I know in Mattercontrol you can edit some of the stuff in the eeprom but it's nothing like editing the actual firmware it self.

    Edit - never mind I reread your post and the lead screw is the correct one I need. Thanks
     
    #38 sLpFhaWK, Dec 14, 2015
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  19. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Mark I made the changes in the Config.h file and uploaded it but it doesn't seem to be taking into effect, do I need to reboot the Arduino for it to take place? and I wish you used Cura because it's the slicer i'd like to use but i can't figure anything out. I dont even know how to open a gcode terminal in the damn program lol
     
    #39 sLpFhaWK, Dec 14, 2015
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is a Cura thread or two and a few people that love it around.

    If you changed the code and compiled and uploaded it then that is really all you need to do.
    Rebooting the Arduino is not needed it gets reset during the upload.
     
    #40 mark tomlinson, Dec 14, 2015
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