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Just got your printer?? Things to keep in mind

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tesseract, Oct 28, 2013.

  1. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    All users of the ROBO should probably start off with PLA to get their system properly setup. Once that is done moving to ABS will be smoother. There are quite a few additional thing you need to consider when dealing with ABS that will simply confuse the issue when setting it up.

    Please start with PLA at about 190 for the first layer and then 185 on others no heat on the bed if you have the ABS version.

    Get that working reliably first then move to ABS

    The 190 and 185 are just starting points and may be a bit different on you printer and with your print

    Remember all filament types and colors are almost unique unto themselves meaning that even two spools of the same color COULD print better at different temps.

    I am also attaching a simple file that is an easy print and can also give you information regarding other calibration aspects of your particular printer.

    Start simple get things right and then move on to materials and prints that are more complex



    Here is a list of tools that Printed_Solid came up with a long time ago and I added some links and pics to see what they are I use all of these almost daily

    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/useful-tools.644/#post-1609

    the original post starts here
    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/useful-tools.644
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I'm thinking we need to make a tool list and expand the "your first print" list.

    I'm finding that to relieve some headaches for folks (you remember how frustrated I was, and at times, still am?) to make the process more smooth for users. the 15mm cube and the 5mm step cube are both great files to get used to how to make material stick, check if things are working/mostly level, etc.

    I also believe that there are certain things we should print to upgrade our machines immediately. I like the risers you made (I'll be installing mine tomorrow, how I love having a McMaster-Carr account again to get those springs), and I've built a spool holder, as I've found an issue with it on the side/held that way is that it has a strong tendency to bind up or cause a jump while printing, nevermind it's desire to cause the spool to want to dive to it's death (the holder on mine already has a crack in the acrylic). These parts are small, useful, and can present the user with a feeling of accomplishment, while leading them towards improving their printer in small ways and guiding them in manufacturing, 3D printing, and DIY stuff.

    As for the tool list, I'd like to keep it simple, and not require a toolbox full of high precision tools. I'd like a list of "beginner" and "intermediate/advanced" stuff (like that indicator roller tip that I was telling you about; It isn't a requirement, but it makes things so very nice). Things like calipers, shim, and a dial indicator should definitely be on the "must have" list I feel.
     
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  3. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    there is a list now Mattchu
     
  4. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    Where is that list located?
     
  5. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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  6. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    Ah I never saw that. Apologies!
     
  7. roshne

    roshne New Member

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    I just got my robo3d working this evening, this is my first experience doing any 3d printing.

    I must be doing something wrong, as the filament is just sliding around on the bed.

    Is there a guide for 1st time printing that someone could recommend?
     
  8. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    there is us we can walk you through most of the issues right now if I were to guess I would say that your nozzle is to far away from the bed and do yourself a favor stick with PLA until you are very comfortable with the printer ABS addes a whole other layer to the variables you needs to deal with
    send me a conversation and I can probably help get you straightened out fairly quickly

    Some things to look out for in the mean time
    check the way the micro switch is oriented on the rigt side smooth rod it should be oriented so that the lever arm is open to he front recently they have been coming in mounted backward
    also check the tightness of the two belts they should be tight enough to give definite twang when pluck like a guitar
    and the last thing I would do is give the wiring a good looking over to make sure you do not have any loose connections

    if you use slype it would probably work faster as we can IM and send pics at the same time
    send me a contact request with your userna,e here on teh forum and mention robo so I know who it is my contact is Jeff Janes or jj.tesseract
     
  9. roshne

    roshne New Member

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    Thanks. The nozzle is down there at most a sheet of paper away.

    I probably won't have any more time this week to try until the weekend.

    I got some painters tape to see if that helps in the meantime. Should I use it sticky side up or down, I've seem mention of both ways.
     
  10. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    well if you don't have time then just wait until the week end but I would not use the tape at this point hairspray does work but there are some that do not our generic Aquanet has been working fine on my glass bed for both ABS and PLA for a few months with nothing else. PLA with no heated bed and ABS with the bed heated.

    As a rule of thumb the business card /piece of paper process is there solely to get the x axis level to the bed it really has nothing to do with the best z height. One may get you closer than the other my preference is the business card because I know it will get the x axis level and I also know it will be to high so my fine adjustments will be to lower it cuts the process time down as you only have one direction since you know you are already too high. Using the paper really depends on the thickness of the paper and you could go up or down in the fine adjustments so it makes it a bit more tricky.

    Regardless of which you choose you are going to be off either too high or too low because as I said that is primarily used to get the x axis level. Once that part is understood the rest seems to fall in place a bit better and things will stick to teh bed A LOT better in fact sometimes in my prints I have a hard time getting them off the bed surface. I look forward to further communication with you to get you on your way.
     
  11. Daniel

    Daniel New Member

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    So guys I have been trying to get a print to stick to the bed for a week. Trying all different heights, different extrusion temperatures, glue, hairspray. I had given up for the evening again, went upstairs for one last hail-merry, due to some error the bed didn't heat up at all. And my "ABS" plastic I ordered online stuck to the bed for the first time ever.
    I swear I had about had it with this thing, and by a fluke the ONLY thing I hadn't tried happens. Got two perfect prints so far.
    So don't always believe the label :p
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to be willing to experiment with the temps of various things :)

    I think you will still want to perhaps experiment with bed temp to minimize warping with ABS. I have run mine as hot as 105c for larger parts that tended to warp significantly.
     
  13. jcy0001

    jcy0001 New Member

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    Hi noob here got my printer mailed in to my US address last november but only got it to the philippines the other day :) i have followed the instructions on the RoBo Users guide. At first the filament wouldnt stick to the glass saw somewhere that someone was turning on the heating on the bed even when using PLA so i tried that seemed to have started sticking a bit more then tried lowering the print head a bit lower onto the glass where it was just barely touching and the filament started sticking better but now tho when it gets to the part of printing the inside of the file the tip of the print head seems to scratch the previous line it layed down creating a fat crumply print that gets fatter and starts sticking to the side of the tip and when it goes back over it to get to some other part of the piece it pulls the whole item of the bed :( do i have the print head too low?

    Based on what is said 3 posts up the the business card process is for the X axis as opposed to what i thought which was it was adjusting for the Z axis :( how do i adjust for the Z axis? is the wrong adjustment on the Z axis the reason for the lack of sticking? i noticed that it has a hard time with the fist part i lays down sticking even when it prints the test surround print but once it sticks it continues to stick the rest of the way then as the head moves to print the actual item it has a hard time sticking again initially then once it sticks it okey again :(

    oh and also i noticed my tip leaks out a bit of filament even before it starts printing is this normal?

    Tesseract would it still be okey to skype you?

    Thanks :)
     
  14. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Sure
    no problem
     
  15. jcy0001

    jcy0001 New Member

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    thanks just wondering where you are located so ill know a good time to buz you up :) ran out of the free filament that came with the printer and ordered some from a supplier here in the philippines cant seem to figure out whats wrong tho as it keeps on leeking when i let i extrude the response seems a little slower and it doesnt stop even after the wheel that controls the filament stops turning. it goes on for quite a while then it becomes really thin then it stops :(
     
  16. jcy0001

    jcy0001 New Member

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    Sorry after i posted the last post i decided to text the guy i bought the PLA from and he told me to use 220-230 to start and then 195-210 after then it started to work right :) just wondering tho is it okey to run the head this hot with PLA?

    printed a few small pieces and they came out fine tried printing the top spool mount for the robo3d but half way through it detached from the bed because it started warping slightly :( would heating the bed help to keep it stuck and not warp?
     
  17. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Generally for PLA the temp rang is a bit lower than that but if that is what the maker of the PLA said then go for it I run mine between 180-215 first layer and then drop it but only by about 5 degrees for the other layers.

    PLA usually does not need a heatbed. The only time I use it for PLA is if the part has a large base(surface area that touches the bed) and during those prints I have seen it warp and the slight heat 40-50C is all I use
     
  18. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I am in Southern CA just so you know
     
  19. jcy0001

    jcy0001 New Member

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    ah cool had mine at 60 and it stuck okey will try to lower it and see if i can still get it to stick and will also try to lower the temp of the PLA :) what are usual signs of over heating the PLA?
     
  20. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    then end print usually look slightly melted
     

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